Thread: Laminating a top for a tas oak chest of draws

I dont like using epoxy glue for timber it is an excellent glue but you always see it in the joint no matter how thin it is there . Where pva absorbs across the joint epoxy does not, what pva glue are you using.
regards Rod.

I think the problem is that the wood was not properly seasoned and moved afterwords. I have used tas oak glued with selleys pva on a couple of projects and not had a problem. I did not use biscuits either. Epoxy can be used and does resist creep better than pva but is usually only used where joints are under stress. It is also good practice to have really clean surfaces before glue is applied. Fresh planed(that day) or a wipe with acetone to remove any oils. I do both on wood with natural oils in it.
Regards
John

If timber is fresh planed it is a good idea to do a light sand to the edge with a block when planing some of Australian hardwood's can bring oil's to the surface so a wipe with fine paper on a block then as stated by orraloon a wipe with acetone.
Regards Rod.

I have never sanded an edge to be glued. I cant see it doing any good and would tend to round the edges a bit. Tas oak is not an oily wood so fresh planed should be fine.
Regards

Hi all

Thanks for your help

I am making the chest of draws from kiln dried dressed boards as I don't have the tools to dress them myself. I never thought of replaning the glue sides, can I do that with a hand plane, or do I need an electric one. My Dad's just bought a jointer will that do the job?

Also the other issue with my entertainment unit i think was that I laminated the top out of 90mm boards, which I have since found out are a bit wide.

what is the max width that I should use to make a laminated top?

thanks

As stated by orraloon tas oak is not an oily timber and does not need sanding before gluing not like rosewood and the like,the heat generated by dressing on a planer brings oils to the surface and does glue more successfully if sanded prior to glue up if using a sanding block you should not round the edges unless you are careless it only takes a light wipe with fine paper to help the bond. I don't think that 90mm wide boards are to wide I regularly use 150mm wide boards to make up tops. you will most likely have to dress the edges of pre finished boards for joining either a hand plane or jointer will do the job. Most pre dressed timber available has been kiln dried and in my opinion incorrectly called dry its at say 12% when it comes out of the kiln then sits and reabsorbs moisture while it sits waiting to be sold and then moves after it has been glued up for a project by the purchaser thinking it is dry. The main problem you are having I think is with boards that are not stable due to moisture PVA glue join's will creep and epoxy joins will twist across the top. Biscuits are good for aligning the surface and stop the separate boards from slipping when clamping making it easier to do. Clamping the boards is necessary to keep the boards tight until the glue has cured time depends on which glue you choose to use my perference is a good quality PVA.
Hope this is of some help
Regards Rod.