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Thread: "the leaf"

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

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    Got half a day on The Leaf today, had the usuall interuptions in the morning, picked up a table I have had in a shop for a while that didn't sell, probably due to the 50%mu they put on it. It's ok though I have a nice art show that it can go in at a resonable price. Then had to pick up the Makita MLT 100 table saw from its warranty repairs (yes unusual, just a dicky switch).
    So to The Leaf, picked up an A3 book of traceing paper and a couple of rolls of sticky tape from Office Works. I originaly thought I would just cut out one template at a time of a particular segment, cut the timber etc and then do the next but I soon realised that that would not be acurate enough and allow too much room for error. With this in mind I started at one end and stuck the first segment down and then the next. I then cut out the first segment, this alowed the two segments to be perfectly aligned with the segments only being separated by one scalple cut, minimal room for error. I did this right down the that side of the leaf. Each segment is numbered so I know at a glance where they live. The bottom side I have layed the whole side with tracing paper (should have done that to start with but its all a learning curve ah) ready for tomorrow morning when I will slice them up and be ready to start cutting timber.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    5,215

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    Claw, what you doing underneath the table? The parquetry/intarsia style tables I have done, I usually give the underneath of the ply a good oil stain and spray a few shade darker the fame before I start on the top. Just makes life easier later on.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

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    Hi Lig, yep, spot on, sounds just what I had in mind. Once I have cut out the rest of the templates today I am going to trim the ply to shape (just a tigg/tidge/tij oversize), then yes, flip over stain, seal and am thinking maybe some low profile ribs/braces to give it a little bit of back bone.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

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    Today, finished cutting out the templates, cut out the leaf leaving a few mm all found for good measure, then flipped over and a light sand to smooth off. I then cut a main brace rib about 55 x 20, tappered the ends down and screwed to the ply (ribs are from Blackbutt). Two smaller side ribs about 12 x 20 and screwed down. I am working on some leg bracket/braces once these have been done I will glue down the 3 ribs. Stain and coat etc. Didn't put too big a day in today had to come home and tidy up the vegie garden.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    belgrave
    Age
    61
    Posts
    7,934

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    The new leaf is turned over!
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

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    They just keep getting better, I didn't realise this thread was going to be so funny.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Deloraine Tasmania
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,092

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    I can't see the forest for all the trees!

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Smile

    Wooden you know it! More punishment than we need.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

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    Another day in the life of a leaf. Today, glued the ribs up for a little backbone, then stained with some Cedar stain I had in the cupboard. Headed out for a little while and ordered the copper angle for the veins, 6mm x 18mm - 0.7mm or 0.55 depends what they can get for me. That done I thought I had better buy some more space for my workshop so I went to my local Safe & Sound storage joint where I had a 4m x 1.5m (mini wharehouse) shed. I upsized to a 4 x 3 and spent the next 3 hours moving the timber I had stored in the small one to the big one and then skined out my workshop of large slabs and put them in the new shed (mega wharehouse) This gave me back about a meter and a half in my workshop, fantastic.
    Back to the leaf, with my new found space I started to cut segments, Got three cut, the most interesting was the Lleichhardt Pine, haven't used it before, quite bazarr watching it bubble up in front of the bandsaw blade. Thought I was cutting up yellow marsh mallows, amazing yellow colour too with a very waxy texture (anyone know what its like to put finish on??) . So tomorrow will be more segments and more segments 22 in all. Once I have them all cut I will start trimming and sanding them to fit neatly.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Yarram
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,207

    Default Curious...

    "copper angle for the veins" "Lleichhardt Pine...quite bazarr watching it bubble up in front of the bandsaw blade". I take it Lleichhardt Pine is on the right, is the left one also How's the fit now

    Did I hear someone in the back say sit down...just watch the show

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

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    Heya SpringW, yep, between each segment is a copper vein so I am going to drop a copper angle between the veins, rebate the top into the segment (.55 or .7mm) anneal and dress to the curve of the segment and glue/pin the copper to one of the segments, the other will then just butt up, thats the plan anyway. Lleichhardt Pine 2 pieces on the right, Tallowood on the left. Fit is ordinary at this stage as I am cutting everthing oversize by a mill or so. I will then fit each one with the bench sander and small planes etc. And no you don't have to sit down
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Yarram
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,207

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    No, I think I better just watch, I don't get how your going to bend the copper angle, I thought it would crimple or is that crumple? And I don't know how your going to go about fitting one to the other if their not really close now off the bandsaw now Can I have some close up pics please when you get a chance

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    4,957

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    By annealing the copper it becomes quite soft and plyable so you can "dress it" (stretch and bump it around with hammer or mallet or fingers) to follow the timber (similar to stained glass leads). The segments are fairly close but I have left enough timber over hanging to sand down to fit exactly together. The copper angle will also give me a little bit of room for error as the timber can slide in or out from under the angle, like a flashing. I will do some close up shots once I have the copper angle.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Yarram
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,207

    Default

    "similar to stained glass leads"

    Got it, thanks

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    No worries my friend, all in a days fun
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

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