Thread: Best material for freestanding dining room cabinet

Thanks, Mat. Think you might be right about using 19mm board for something so big. I was going to ask about whether I needed to think about braces at any point, actually. But with thicker wood, I guess I wouldn’t need it.


I agree, I think the natural ply grain can look pretty nice. In my bathroom cabinet, I left it exposed, because I think it complements the natural look I was going for. Here’s a pic…it’s not much, but for a guy who’s been doing this for just on two months, I reckon it isn’t too bad. I used pine for the carcass which was probably a mistake, but I really like the look of it. I routed rails into the top and bottom panels for the sliding doors, coz I didn’t want any plastic or anything non-wood in it.

cabinet.jpg

About 20 years ago I built a cabinet for our TV room. I did not have half the knowledge or tools that I have today. The main tools used were a circular saw and straight edge and a router (1/4").
I used ply, and one of the things I did half way through the build was to put iron on edging to cover the edge of the ply. When I was buying the ply (before Bunnings existed) I had them cut the sheet down into three pieces that were small enough to fit into the car but were a suitable size to cut to the finished product with little waste.

100_2289.jpg The image should give you an idea of how ply and iron on edges can look. The top of the side was routed for the top to fit without the need for screws. The edging is perhaps a give away that it was done after the top was fitted.

As with any project, draw plans and make up a cutting list. Good luck and let us know how you go.

If well finished the pine should not have warped, but the humidity in a bathroom is always going to be a challenge. I tend to apply PU finish even to hidden surfaces and the end grain in shelves etc.

I made similar sized pieces from pine, but the shelves and sides will need to be glued up from narrower boards. See pictures.

I have also made shelves from edged plywood. Marine grade or interior plywood is a wonderful material as it always dead straight, but it too will warp (swell) if not finished properly and exposed to moisture.I've made plywood furniture and left the edges exposed... I liked it but the boss did not. 12 mm ply is too skinny - not because it's not strong enough, it will just look strange. In any case I don't think you will be able to get furniture grade 12 mm ply at most stores, you will need to go to a specialty ply supplier... 19mm is common enough even at the big hardware stores.

All the suggestions made earlier by others will work - and I wouldn't give up on pine if I was you... just spend time choosing the cuts at the store, keep them dry and keep them straight until the last coat of finish. I keep my pine cuts under my bed...

Apart from that, it's a matter of taste regarding grain etc.

Have fun! that's the main thing.

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Originally Posted by zoovegroover

Thanks, Mat. Think you might be right about using 19mm board for something so big. I was going to ask about whether I needed to think about braces at any point, actually. But with thicker wood, I guess I wouldn’t need it.


I agree, I think the natural ply grain can look pretty nice. In my bathroom cabinet, I left it exposed, because I think it complements the natural look I was going for. Here’s a pic…it’s not much, but for a guy who’s been doing this for just on two months, I reckon it isn’t too bad. I used pine for the carcass which was probably a mistake, but I really like the look of it. I routed rails into the top and bottom panels for the sliding doors, coz I didn’t want any plastic or anything non-wood in it.

cabinet.jpg

I saw this after my previous reply... This is a wonderful job, but the mistake is not the choice of wood, the mistake was not to give it two or three coats of clear polyurethane or oil. Even hardwoods will warp at the first instance of a change in humidity... A coat of clear PU would have sealed it, and added a wonderful amber tint to it.

You live and learn!

By the way, the plywood that you are considering for your bigger job will warp under these conditions too. There is a marine grade ply, but I don't think that it's totally impervious to moisture - the layers in marine ply are glued with a water resistant glue, but the layers themselves will absorb moisture.

Regards

Jorge

You could also try bamboo ply at www.letobamboo.com ,the edge finish of the bamboo looks great (to my eye) and it's very stable doesn't seem to warp or stretch . No affiliation with Leto just a satisfied customer.