Thread: Mitre/bevel on TS not square

Normally the saw follows the guide have you checked the guide for any deformation, trapped shavings, etc.

What guide are you refering to? I don't have any guides on my tablesaw (TS).

The "trim cut sled" may a picture of it could help.

Check your TS for "arbor float" - movement of the TS's arbor in the direction of the arbor axis i.e. side to side movement of the saw blade. When you start the cut the saw blade moves into a dynamically stable state which may not be the original position.

There are a number of other factors which can influence the quality of a cut, including the saw plate thickness, tooth profile, condition of the saw plate and teeth (damaged or missing teeth etc), blade alignment, runner alignment of the sled etc.

I’m assuming that you’re tilting a blade to 45deg on a table saw?

If yes, check that the blade is parallel to the slots on the table, reason I say this, is I seem to remember some table saws are parallel at 90deg but when tilted is throws it out just a smidgen.

Check that the teeth don't have any pitch buildup on them. I have also had this problem when I start a cut and when I checked the teeth there was buildup on the sides of the teeth so I cleaned it off with a sharp razor type blade and the cut was much better. Also how sharp is your blade? They will deteriorate over time and it's not until you have it sharpened that you realise how blunt it was. With no support on the other side of your cut the blunt or resin coated blade can deflect a little at the start and then continue in that line.

Thanks everyone for your comments.

Problem solved!

The board at that corner was just slightly bowed so I sent it through the planer/thicknesser again for good measure.