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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    sydney
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    345

    Default The monstrosity!!

    now technically speaking this isn't all that big

    BUT

    proportionately speaking it's jolly huge!

    This is a special order I got for a 500mm x 700mm x 70mm Ironbark & Jarrah end grain chopping board
    Weighing in at 30kg it's simply the biggest and heaviest board I have ever made.

    Here are some progress pics, first one shows the blank before I cut it into strips then the second shows the strips laid out ready for glue up.





    As it was too wide for my thicknesser I have made it in 2 haves and will bring it together after it's all nice and level.

    The Red Ironbark is recycled and has some beautiful grain in it and the Jarrah is from Trend Timbers in Mulgrave who always have great Jarrah - it's always dark plum red almost purple and very clear & sap free - Jarrah is expensive and many places try to sell you stuff that's full of sap or at best pink like Blue Gum, I like the stuff from Trend it's always top quality Jarrah

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    4,957

    Default

    Look great MM. They must be going to do some serious cooking.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Cowra - Central West NSW
    Posts
    813

    Default

    Do they grow their own beef? You'll need a board that big to break down a beast.
    Steven Thomas


  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sydney
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    53
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    8,879

    Default

    That is impressive.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    perth wa
    Age
    70
    Posts
    149

    Default

    I know somebody who would love something like that

    paul , k

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
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    76
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    19,922

    Thumbs up

    Reeeeealy noice bit 'o work.

    Glad you gave us a butcher's.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sydney
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    345

    Default

    The first half is finished and I'm gluing up the second half now.

    I did something naughty and ran it through the thicknesser to level it - I really didn't want to take to something this big and dense with the belt sander.

    I took tiny little skims off it each pass - less than 1mm at at time on one side and it worked well because that side had a hump.

    The other side was dished and that was a disaster - have you ever seen a 245kg thicknesser jump 3"!
    People from the street came looking for the fire after the explosion - it really banged hard.
    Funnily enough nothing broke and other than two really deep gouges near the edge that I later cleaned off I had no issues. I have however learnt not to pass a dished piece of wood - especially endgrain through the thicknesser without first leveling the leading side.

    see my sketches below to see what I mean: (curve has been greatly exaggerated for illustration purposes)






  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Sydney
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    53
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    8,879

    Default

    That was a real bad idea.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sydney
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    345

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    That was a real bad idea.
    I've been doing it successfully for a few months now without a problem, on softer woods you can't because it tears out.

    If you really take it easy and feed it through slowly only taking a very small cut per pass you end up with a perfectly level board and you orbital sand it smooth in minutes. If you belt sand it level you spend hours removing scratches and the wood gets small cracks in it from the belt heating the surface up and drying it out.

    I've had really good results doing it this way but ideally you need a hellical cutter head or a drum sander to this type of thing.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sydney
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    345

    Default

    It's finished - finally. I joined the two halves together with 5 10x200mm dowels just to make sure things stay together over time.








    Whatever will I do with that 700mm long 110x80 piece of Ebony in the background...

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
    Posts
    4,835

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by missionaryman View Post
    Whatever will I do with that 700mm long 110x80 piece of Ebony in the background...
    I'll take that off your hands
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    595

    Default

    A stunning piece of work, you have got the wood looking absolutely beautiful, it will be a joy to chop things on it.
    Notice your tablesaw in the background, the same model as mine, so I have a question. If you are cutting a dado or something like that, how do you lock the height of the blade to make sure it doesnt shift during the cut? Thought I would ask someone who obviously knows what they are doing. )

  14. #13
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    Nov 2007
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    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

    Default

    Very nice work.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    87
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    1,327

    Default

    Only one word to describe a board like that . Bewdifull.
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    345

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fencepost2 View Post
    A stunning piece of work, you have got the wood looking absolutely beautiful, it will be a joy to chop things on it.
    Notice your tablesaw in the background, the same model as mine, so I have a question. If you are cutting a dado or something like that, how do you lock the height of the blade to make sure it doesnt shift during the cut? Thought I would ask someone who obviously knows what they are doing. )
    Interesting you should ask, I've pretty much demoted that machine to rough ripping that always needs jointing afterwards. I cut dados on the router table with a straight bit.

    That saw was a big step up from the Triton MK3 but it's an equally big step away from something like a PM-2000 with a TSC10HB somewhere in between. I've replaced the worm gear on it twice and the handwheels seem to never feel securely attached. It's almost impossible to keep the fence parallel to the blade and I could keep whining about it all night, but I wont.
    I will say this however, if you want to do more precise work on a table saw get a better model than this one .

    In direct answer to your question the way to limit sag on the blade to to make sure you wind it back up till the slack has been taken up if you are height setting by lowering the blade.
    If after doing that you are still getting sag I recommend you have a look under the hood and make sure everything is generously lubricated. If the gears are a bit tight and dry the weight of the motor wont be sufficient to keep the blade at it's lower resting point and vibration/pressure may cause it to lower during a cut.
    If your height adjustment needs any more than fingertip strength to wind up it's a good sign of 2 things:
    1. you need to get in there and lube her up
    2. you might be up for a new worm gear soon

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