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  1. #91
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    you're a bloody genius.

    cheers
    Michael

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  3. #92
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    Jul 2005
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    Victoria
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    Looking good Woodwould. Nice veneering.

  4. #93
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    Oct 2006
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    Thanks men!

    Quote Originally Posted by rhancock View Post
    Still waiting to hear when the book's being published...
    It has to be written first!

    Quote Originally Posted by chowcini View Post
    are the stiles and rails still pine with edge treatment applied?? or solid??
    The door frames are solid plain Ash and cross-veneered on the face with knotty and figured Ash. The lower door stuff is additionally rebated to accept cross-grained blocks in which the moulding is formed. All but the moulded edge of the blocks are hidden beneath the face veneer.

    The upper door mouldings (and glazing bars) will be applied and are a totally different profile - sneak preview...
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  5. #94
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    Sep 2004
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    Greetings Woodwould,
    I like the profile on the glazing bar . Do you expect any problem with differential movement between the cross grain blocks and the long grain bar and do you use the same technique to make the moulding i.e. rough out the shape with a shoulder plane followed by trimming with a moulding plane or do you sometimes use a router . If a moulding plane what type do you use .
    A very interesting WIP.

    Cheers Peter
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  6. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter36 View Post
    Do you expect any problem with differential movement between the cross grain blocks and the long grain bar...
    Not problems per se, but I do expect the blocks to squirm around a bit with changes in temperature and humidity. I expect the glazing bars to end up looking similar to this...



    Quote Originally Posted by Peter36 View Post
    ... and do you use the same technique to make the moulding i.e. rough out the shape with a shoulder plane followed by trimming with a moulding plane or do you sometimes use a router .
    Yes, shoulder plane, followed by a hollow moulding plane. This is a practice run on some plain stock...



    ... and finally the cross-grained stock.

    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  7. #96
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Hervey Bay QLD
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    319

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    such a clean profile? are your planes that sharp for end grain tearout? or do you apply a steady hand and some elbow grease for the finished product?? looks good
    regards Chowcini

  8. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by chowcini View Post
    such a clean profile? are your planes that sharp for end grain tearout? or do you apply a steady hand and some elbow grease for the finished product?? looks good
    regards Chowcini
    I use whatever is necessary, regular honing, lubricant/solidifier, scrapers and sandpaper!
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  9. #98
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    Nov 2007
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    Dundowran Beach
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    19,922

    Thumbs up

    More top stuphph Woodwould!!

    The detail in your WIp is very much appreciated.

  10. #99
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Whittlesea, Victoria
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    Stunning work mate, a pleasure to read.

  11. #100
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    Jan 2005
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    So this is where everyone went, I thought it was quiet outside!

    This why the forums are a great place I reckon. Every now and again you bumble into a jewel of a thread like this one. I pulled up a pew at the back but Waldo's big boof head was in the way so now I have stage left to myself.

    Great record of the build WW, I haven't seen Mulberry work before so this is very informative.

  12. #101
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    I use whatever is necessary, regular honing, lubricant/solidifier, scrapers and sandpaper!
    What do you mean "lubricant/solidifier" ?
    Last edited by tea lady; 29th March 2010 at 10:09 PM. Reason: another b*^$%^ typo
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  13. #102
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    Melbourne
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    Horse sauce; it can lubricate the wood, or if the cross-grained wood is a bit friable, the glue can be left to set, thus solidifying the wood. A hot cloth afterwards and it's all gone again.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  14. #103
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    In the shed, Melbourne
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    52
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    6,883

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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    I pulled up a pew at the back but Waldo's big boof head was in the way so now I have stage left to myself.
    that was the bloke sitting next to me, it was 'im.

    This is a big tease in a way Wood Would, not wanting to see the end of the job because we're all enjoying all the bits you throw up, but also wanting to see how it will finally look.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  15. #104
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    Oct 2007
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    Yarram
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    Drinks, lollies...cigarettes

    Fantastic work WW, thanks for the show, really enjoyable!

  16. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    Horse sauce; it can lubricate the wood, or if the cross-grained wood is a bit friable, the glue can be left to set, thus solidifying the wood. A hot cloth afterwards and it's all gone again.
    I'm really gonna have to come and "help" you a couple of days.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

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