Thread: natural edge picture frame help please

This is a table-saw sled jig ... again just ideas ... I don't know if you have a table-saw ... and of course you are cutting big sections.



There's (at least) one online for bandsaw also.

But this one is for picture framing on the SCMS ...



Cheers,
Paul

This guy shows a french cleat hanging system at the end of this video:



You might also want to go the hand-carved frame route ... ???
But if you look at 4:10 in this video you can see one way of reinforcing a pretty big frame by what I might attempt to call a splined rebate.
(Music sucks but - imho)



Paul

Lastly, this is a video on a mitred mortise & tenon joint.



You wouldn't have to have exactly his machines and approach ... for example you could have all mortices all the way around and use loose tenons. Similar to this: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Ma...uter_9064.aspx

But I think you would make the mortice perpendicular to the mitred surface, rather than parallel to the frame side like in the video and the link. Then the loose tenon becomes analogous to the spline I mentioned before, but bigger.

It wouldn't be hard to make a jig to hold a router template onto each mitred face of the frame and make the same mortice each time ... then cut the tenon material and glue up and clamp.

Easy right?

Cheers,
Paul

Thanks Paul, will have to study these options and work out the best way for me to appraoch it.
Cheers Glenn

Originally Posted by pmcgee

Lastly, this is a video on a mitred mortise & tenon joint.



You wouldn't have to have exactly his machines and approach ... for example you could have all mortices all the way around and use loose tenons. Similar to this: Skill Builder: Loose Tenon Joinery with a Router | Articles | Woodworkers Journal

But I think you would make the mortice perpendicular to the mitred surface, rather than parallel to the frame side like in the video and the link. Then the loose tenon becomes analogous to the spline I mentioned before, but bigger.

It wouldn't be hard to make a jig to hold a router template onto each mitred face of the frame and make the same mortice each time ... then cut the tenon material and glue up and clamp.

Easy right?

Cheers,
Paul

PM sent Paul

For a large frame such as yours, I would mitre the corners and join the backs using roofing plates. (Not sure what they are called where you are.) They are basically metal plates with lots of pins in the bottom. They are very strong and easy to cut to fit your frame. Would hold it very tightly (Especially if you did decide to biscuit the mitres which is probably a good idea)

One question that I may have missed, are you leaving the waney edge? If so, be careful that the mitres line up... wouldn't want one waney edge longer than the other so that the mitres look uneven.

You hit the nail right on the head Max as this is the process I am going to use, I made a start yesterday and am in the process of doing a WIP to show my progress with this beast. Stay tuned!

Originally Posted by dhubilant

PM sent Paul

I haven't had anything Glenn ... might be a delay???

But I sent three in the early days of this new format and I don't know if they got there 'cos I haven't heard anything back.

Cheers,
Paul

Duhhhhh ... mailbox full ... sorry

Re the rebate for the picture ... a longish article by Chris Schwarz ...

Cut Accurate and Clean Rabbets

Paul

Also ... from a thread asking about tables I spotted this joinery ... which could be similar to your framing ...

the corner mitre must have a loose tenon which in this case is pegged or drawbored (I think).

Cheers,
Paul

My suggestions for the corner joints for such a big load on a frame are in order of preference:

1. mortice and tenon joints, preferably pinned with a dowel of a different colour. This will be like the mirror frame that JillB made in "How many coats of Danish Oil"

2. mitred mortice and tenon joints, as shown in the video above by pcmgee

3. half lap mitre joints, which can be nicely pinned too

4. mitre joints with loose tenons , preferably with a Festool Domino

Don't waste your time with biscuits - they have the strength of Weetbix, and they should only be used for alignment.

With regards to cutting such a monster frame sides, have a look here too on how to cut exact 45 degree mitres - that sliding mitre jig for the table saw is great.

The link above to "How much Danish Oil", gives a great idea on how to finish it with Scandinavian Oil and Ubeaut Traditional Wax to give a soft, lustrous finish with the natural grain showing.

Sorry you have the RR Virus, that can be very debilitating for quite a long time. I live in Townsville, and walk the dog along the Ross River each morning. Dengue fever is more likely to be caught here than the RRV, but they are just as bad as each other.

Thanks for all the tips guys, I will have to look into them further when a little more experience is gained, I have finished the frame and just about to give it its final sanding then coat it, some pics on WIP thread.
Cheers Glenn

Originally Posted by Dengue

2. mitred mortice and tenon joints, as shown in the video below

Don't tease!!



Paul

Sorry Paul, should have read " posted above".

I have fixed it, and included the link. It was a link to the video you actually posted. didn't you recognise it?