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13th December 2010, 04:46 PM #16
A pair of George II Walnut Girandoles – Part Three
The stock for the frames is Pine which is cross-veneered on the outsides with the same 5/64 in. thick Walnut veneer as the frets and the top is faced with 1/4 in. thick cross-grained Walnut blocks. I made the stock up in two lengths; one per frame which virtually guarantees a smooth transition across the mitres.
I glued the frames together and when dry, I sawed diagonally through the mitre sides until the saw barely appeared on the inside of the frames. Veneer spines were glued into these saw cuts to strengthen the butt-jointed mitres.
The surplus veneer was trimmed off. The remaining spines are subsequently hidden by the frets.
The frets were glued in place on the frames and supported behind by small glue blocks. The mitred cross-grain blocks at the top corners of each frame were cut out and replaced by wedge-shaped blocks into which were carved the re-entrant, or 'baby's bum' corners. They are peculiar little corners because conventionally, each set of arcs is not concentric as one would expect (re-entrant corners on table tops of the same period, for example, are concentric).
Re-entrant top corners.
Both frames were cleaned up in readiness for finishing.
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I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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13th December 2010 04:46 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th December 2010, 04:56 PM #17
Is there any reason, other than aesthetic, that the face veneers on the frames are cross-grain?
How did you cut the profile?"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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13th December 2010, 05:05 PM #18
It was purely the fashion of the time.
I enthusiastically started with a fret saw. However it's been some years since I used one for any duration and after completing about a quarter of one of the frets my arm was completely useless, so I swallowed my pride and borrowed a scroll saw from a kindly forum member..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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13th December 2010, 05:08 PM #19
Sorry, I meant the profile on the frame face.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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13th December 2010, 05:15 PM #20
I'm not sure if you mean the frame moulding or the re-entrant corners.
If the former, then I used a shoulder plane followed by a couple of moulding planes. If the latter, then I cut the shapes out with the aforementioned scroll saw and matched the moulded profile with carving gouges etc..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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13th December 2010, 06:05 PM #21
Both answer my question very well, thanks!
Looking good, by the way."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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13th December 2010, 06:48 PM #22Skwair2rownd
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Looking good Mr. Wood!!
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13th December 2010, 08:28 PM #23
Coming along very well.
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14th December 2010, 08:44 PM #24GOLD MEMBER
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Looking good as you projects always do WW . Do the frets sit on the splines?
I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan
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14th December 2010, 10:35 PM #25
No, the splines were trimmed off to allow the frets to slide onto the frames. In theory though it would be possible to saw slots down the inside of the 'wings' on the frets to engage the splines, but a) it's not really necessary, and b) I haven't seen it done, so I won't attempt it.
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I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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22nd December 2010, 07:52 AM #26
A pair of George II Walnut Girandoles – Part Four
I have seen girandoles, mirrors and sconces that were suspended by string or wire twisted round nails hammered into the backs of the frames, or even the sides (which will at least keep girandoles and sconces vertical on the wall), but I prefer proper ring-screws or screw eyes with chains, or one or two picture plates screwed to the frames. The weight of the glass plates can be considerable and the last thing I want is to be woken in the dead of night by a heavy glass plate impacting the dog, the floor, or perish the thought; other furniture!
For a reason which immediately escapes me, I still have some off-cuts of authentically (for the eighteenth-century) alloyed brass sheet left over from my restoration days. I thought I had disposed of it all ages ago, but a few pieces surfaced quite recently while searching for something entirely unrelated.
Off-cut of brass sheet.
I took a piece of suitable gauge and cut out and drilled two picture plates. I countersunk the holes and carefully filed the edges before brightening them up a bit.
The two picture plates after buffing…
…and after they'd spent an afternoon in the Bucket of Wrath.
A single picture plate will be screwed to the top centre of each girandole frame; behind the fret which should be sufficiently safe to hang them by… time will tell.
Despite the admirable dint of my broadly travelled agent, no mercury glass could be located within the allotted time or budget – apparently $3,800 was the asking price for a rough old painted Vicky mercury glass overmantel in a junk shop somewhere near Warnambool! "Where?" I hear you cry. "Precisely!" quoth I.
Notwithstanding, an old-ish silvered plate was secured locally, from which were cut, a couple of smaller sized plates for the two frames.
There were a few nervous moments cutting these two!
Once the off-cuts and lethal shards had been carefully wrapped up in newspaper and disposed of, I set about simulating the degradation of the amalgam commonly seen round the periphery of genuine mercury looking glasses.
Look… an eagle!
The plates are intentionally a loose fit in the frames – about 1/8" (3mm) all round – and are retained by split, triangular Pine glue blocks which are rubbed onto the inside of the frame rebates. The glue blocks effectively wedge the plates in place, preventing them from rattling around yet allowing for some expansion and contraction.
The glue blocks also act as stand-offs, maintaining a space between the back of the plates and the backboards. The backboards are simply held in place with a few cut brads tapped into the frame.
The back showing construction, picture plate and backboard.
I fear the candle branches have been held up in the UK due to a combination of the normal seasonal postal rush and the abominable snowy weather they're currently experiencing. I shall conclude this series as soon as is possible..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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22nd December 2010, 08:55 AM #27GOLD MEMBER
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As my old mate used to say " Looks better than a bought one "
I can only see what the eagle dropped .I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan
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22nd December 2010, 09:21 AM #28
Luvley work Mr WW
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I´m not so sure about the universe.
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22nd December 2010, 10:02 AM #29
Not with standing the reflection of the standard of work that is produced, I perfer to have a clear image.
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22nd December 2010, 04:01 PM #30Jim
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This question is purely to seek information not to comment on what has been done.
What is the time-frame in which the edges of mercury coated glass start to deteriorate noticeably in a domestic situation?
Cheers,
Jim
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