Thread: My second piece in slow progress

Well after further delays due to She How Can Not Be Named, like horse yards stables and a few other little things I have finally finished sanding down the top and back sides of this table top.

I initially was using #40 paper in the belt sander and naturally that left a few marks. So I have re-sanded with #80 to clean it up. It is not paint ready but basically clean enough to start work with.
Well it has been a slow process going from the original weathered timber to this.

I now have reached that nervous point of cutting it to correct width. All the little nasties keep coming to mind, will I manage a straight cut, how much will end up splintering, will the knots break away and make a total shambles of it all. There are some knots on the edge luckily on the underside.

One big problem, I am not sure which side should be on top. The underside, picture 10, has more character but as I mentioned knots are close to the edge cut. Picture 9 the top so far will/should come out cleaner after cutting.

Just re-looking at your drwings and reading your previous comments. Wooden pegs would look good. I think I would cut the two end "feet' back so they finish under the rails. Proportions would look better and it should still be very stable.

As for cutting th top, to avoid splintering I would firstly use a fine toothed blade. You could deep score the cut line with a very sharp marking knife and be very particular with lining up the blade.

Good luck.

The table top has increased from 1270mm to 1470mm, orders from on high.

The feet bars could be reduced a bit. The frame under the table top is 1030 so I could reduce the feet bars to about the same. I also don't like the square look so the feet bars will get some form of shaping along the top line. How is going to be interesting. (This is where I get envious of all you guys and your gear.)

Thanks for the hint about scoring the line of cut.

I got hold of a 40 tooth blade for the circular saw. That was the finest I could get for the saw. The saw is old and I only had a 20 tooth all steel blade. The new one is also carbide tipped. I took a bit to fine a new blade as 7 1/4 inch blades seen somewhat scares around here.

As for 'good luck' I may need that.

OK. Given the general design and look of the table I would stick to simple shaping. Rounding edges and corners etc.

I was looking at something like that. I had though of a slight slope from the post to the edge moving into an end rounding of 45mm radius. the legs are approx 25mm and a rounded top would be suitable as they will end up having feet/shoes on them one way or the other.

I may also change the posts. I came across 2 nice old hardwood fence posts, (jarrah I think). A lot will depend on how well they clean up. But it is on the thought process. If I go that way then I will slot the feet bars into the posts as well. That will tidy it up a lot more. Though this option also has problems such as getting the bottom spreader bar into/though the posts. Sounds like careful drilling and chiseling.

Originally Posted by artme

As for cutting th top, to avoid splintering I would firstly use a fine toothed blade. You could deep score the cut line with a very sharp marking knife and be very particular with lining up the blade.

Good luck.

The oregon is so brittle it just splintered especially the hard grain lines. Oh what fun...
Plan B on the way...

Just a wee note from a relative newbie to the forum.

You mention using epoxy for the finish...be aware a LOT of epoxies have very poor UV resistance and nearly all tend to yellow fairly quickly in light.

I prefer a french polishing technique with nitrocellulose laquer...this allows fairly easy refinishing and a reasonbly durable rich polish surface...just my 2c's worth!

cheers

Don´t use the epoxy.There are many excellent finishes that can be bought these days that are durable and easy to apply. The French polish type approach has its advantages, as Errol says.

As far as final finish goes I am somewhat more concerned with the state of the timber. It is suffering from a few nasty dry spots. The only way to really deal with these is either cut them out and have an interesting table with holes or use an epoxy to bind what is there. That should also bind in some of the knots that are about as well.

At present this has all gone back on hold again.

Though it may be ready by Christmas but not sure which year

Actually I have to build 2 chairs like my original pallet one and by De 23. So far it has gone rather slowly. My headache has been getting the right timber and thickness to make laminated arm rests with a semi circle curve at the end. The curve is 100mm diam. What i wanted to do fell apart as the timber I was trying to use had to be paper thin.

Anyway that is now sorted and on with chairs ASAP.. SWMBO said so.