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Thread: Large radius round over profiles
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22nd July 2021, 05:30 PM #1Senior Member
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Large radius round over profiles
I remember the big ugly laminex bullnose profiles ubiquitous in the 90s, and those are scary.
But in hardwood, I'm really liking the idea of large radius profiles with matt oil/hardwax finish for furniture at home.
I'm building a small table (1200 x 650 x 450) for a pre-schooler play table. The top is 25mm and I'm considering a big 19mm round over.
Of course, I'd like to just do a few test cuts and get the right profile. But these large radius bits are gonna be TCT and $50+ each. So... y'know...
Visually, i'm talking about this kind of thing https://d31dpzy4bseog7.cloudfront.ne...TLP_MBM_05.jpg
All their stuff is really nice.
If I wanted an exact copy - it looks to me like the radius on that is the same as the stock thickness. Thinking practically though, it feel like a good result will be easier to achieve with a radius a few mil shorter.
Keen to hear opinions on both aesthetics and technique!
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22nd July 2021 05:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd July 2021, 05:46 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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What about a sharknose like this that I just did on an office benchtop? AC09764A-A24E-4D01-9DA4-FA58AC30C00E.jpeg
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22nd July 2021, 06:53 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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The full depth of the radius in the cabinet you've linked to would be no good for a table that a child will be sitting at - too sharp an edge on the bottom. That sharknose looks really good.
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22nd July 2021, 07:05 PM #4Taking a break
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Personally, I think a 2mm step down to the radius adds a bit more visual definition to a table top
If you have a router table, you can go as large as you want with the radius because you're running with a fence. If you're going hand-held, you'll want a few mm for the bearing to run on, so 19mm would work perfectly on 25mm material.
As for technique, I'd be running it in 2 passes with a 1-2mm finish cut. The biggest thing is to commit to the cut once you start and make the router work; running too slow can leave burn marks and will shorten the life of the bit. 1600W will power through just fine; if you feel/hear the motor starting to bog down a lot, back off a bit, otherwise keep pushing.
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22nd July 2021, 07:12 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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From a practical point of view a pencil round ( the bigger the better) on both edges is going to be better around children
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23rd July 2021, 11:00 AM #6Senior Member
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This forum is awesome. y'all are awesome. Thank you.
Curious, how is a pencil round different to a round over? Is it just a small radius round over?
I have a 3.2mm radius round over that i use to ease edges when I don't want the profile to be a feature. Does the job, and is practically un noticeable. I use it on just about every finished edge of a piece. The idea behind the large radius round over on this piece is purely aesthetic. Still want it to be modest and minimalistic, but something more than just an eased edge. Which is why I don't love step downs, and shaped profiles. Then again... this piece is pretty squad, like a coffee table, has tapered legs, and an apron drawer with continuous grain, so probably just easing all the edges with a 3.2mm radius with the trim router is easiest and safest bet. This is a practice project though, so, why not try new stuff!
If I do go with 19mm radius on top, I could ease the bottom edge as well with 3.2mm radius. That would be tidy.
I have a good router table and a Bosch 1700W, so have options. I reckon multiple passes handheld is going to be best for me though. My router table is not integrated into a bench, and it has a fairly small top, I think it would be awkward to push 1200 x 600 x 25 Vic Ash top through it. I'd like to get a pair of those Jessem Stock guides...
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23rd July 2021, 11:16 AM #7... and this too shall pass away ...
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You're right, Rogerwilco.
This forum is magnificent.
The following pic is of an old Black and Decker work table holding a rest which serves as an infeed and outfeed table on all sorts of machines, including my small Jet router table/spindle moulder. The rest can be adjusted up and down to suit the machine in use. Yesterday, I used it to rout a rebate in the sides of what will become a large chest of drawers, 1350 mm X 450 mm X 50 mm. I used the rest as an infeed table until the cut was half done, stopped, and moved the rest to become an outfeed table for the remainder of the cut. It works like a bought one.
IMG20210723100437.jpg
This is the piece that went over the router table. Long, heavy and cumbersome, but the rest made the job easy.
IMG20210721144411.jpg
I use it a lot, but it is handiest when the work table is small, as on the router table and the bandsaw.
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23rd July 2021, 11:45 AM #8Senior Member
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Nice solution John!
It also made me remember… I can already do something similar. Thanks to my past self, my router table is on a mobile car that I built to be the same height as my assembly table, which is big and dead flat, with a waxed MDF top.
I’ll be able to cut this on the Router table!
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23rd July 2021, 01:22 PM #9
Roger,
if you own a hand plane you could save yourself the dollars required to buy a router bit that "sort of works" and shape the round-over profile by hand.
speaking personally, working by hand on a one-off project is much more satisfyingregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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23rd August 2021, 11:45 AM #10Intermediate Member
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To second Ian's approach, I have worked in a hybrid manner, drawing the desired curve on the square edge of the top, then using a straight bit to route down to the pencil line if the curve. Do this multiple times to set the depth of the curve. Then use a hand plane or power plane to remove material to the routed depth and get the curve roughed out. Then you can use a good quality rasp to finish and fair the curve and eliminate the depth grooves from the router bit. Sand it smooth and you are done. A few more steps, but no big bit required, and it feels less risky of a process. Also, you've got more flexibility with the variety of curves you can do. You aren't limited by the special bit you just bought. Good rasps are a revelation and really expand the possibility for shaping timber in furniture. I came to furniture from an architecture and carpentry background, and I used to think you had to have a special TCT bit for every edge profile you wanted. My wife taught me how to finesse wood with a rasp. Seems old school but remarkably fast and satisfying to work with, less dust and noise.
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23rd August 2021, 12:18 PM #11Intermediate Member
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Bug Table
bug table curve view.jpgbug table top view.jpgbug table underside.jpg
Here is an example of an edge profile made the way I described. In this case the underside edge got painted, oiled and waxed. But you can see it's a smooth, fair curve. This example is not kid friendly, but our toddler is now 11 years old and none the worse for having lived with this table since infancy. I think we might have cushioned the edge when he was young, but I can't recall for sure. Sorry for the sight of my feet.
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23rd August 2021, 01:54 PM #12Senior Member
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Looks like you did a good job on it! Well done, and thanks for sharing the example.
I'm keen to give hand tools a go - I like hybrid as an overall approach. I've learned with machining that it relatively unusual to get exactly the desired result straight off the machine. There's always some finessing to do. And absolutely, if you're trying to do something a bit more 'organic', like an asymmetric curve, then you've either got to build some kind of elaborate jig, or do it by hand.
Once I get a decent jack plane (coming soon), I'll start building some skills that way too.
I've see people use soft pads with an ROS (the foam kind that are usually used for buffing cars) to help with shaping too. Seems a good idea.
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3rd September 2021, 02:41 PM #13Senior Member
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Side table
Hi Roger,
I quite like that oak side table. Do you know where it comes from?
Cheers
Lyndon
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3rd September 2021, 08:11 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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here is the spindle moulder cutter block you can do this easily
OMAS K405-L Round Over Ovolo Block R=50 d=30 | Scott+Sargeant UKSCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12
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3rd September 2021, 09:18 PM #15Senior Member
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Me too! They make beaut stuff at Made by Morgen, Brunswick, VIC.
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