Thread: Making a Reading Table - Part One

Yes, rotary cut (the most common method) veneers are bland and not really representative of the species, other than, perhaps colour (depending on whether or not the log was steamed as part of its preparation).

Crown cut (expensive and restricted to some high quality exotics) veneers appear more like the sawn boards we're familiar with.

Thanks for the explanation.

I have to write, I really liked the colour of the pine to the colour of the walnut veneer, it is very striking. Even though though the pine is giving the bones to which you'll be building on and thus it won't be seen.

At what thickness do you cut your Walnut veneers? And at what point, thickness wise, do you start to notice differences in wood movement between the Pine and the Walnut veneer?

Originally Posted by waveink

At what thickness do you cut your Walnut veneers? And at what point, thickness wise, do you start to notice differences in wood movement between the Pine and the Walnut veneer?

As mentioned above, the veneers are 3/32" thick. There's no perceivable discord between the Walnut veneer and either Pine or Oak grounds – even with wide panels such as the sides of chests of drawers etc. It's one of the benefits of using veneer; it complies with the substrate.

Hi Woodwould,

as you cut the veneers with a bandsaw, can you divulge your technique? How do you deal with the saw marks before gluing? What type of glue did you use?

Regarding veneer thickness, any idea what would be the maximum when applied to plywood and would that be influenced by the size of the plywood used?

Cheers,
Zelk

Looking fantastic as usual WW, I think you must be getting back into practice, your work is looking sharper with each project.

Originally Posted by zelk

Hi Woodwould,

as you cut the veneers with a bandsaw, can you divulge your technique? How do you deal with the saw marks before gluing? What type of glue did you use?

Regarding veneer thickness, any idea what would be the maximum when applied to plywood and would that be influenced by the size of the plywood used?

Cheers,
Zelk

I wrote about my methods of cutting veneer in this thread recently. As I mentioned in the other thread, don't use a coarse blade like you would for normal re-sawing (typically 3 TPI). Fine, regular saw marks from a 6 TPI blade are good. If the veneer is too smooth, I rough it up with a veneer plane anyway.

The only glue I ever use is animal glue. It does absolutely everything I ask of it, is reversible and cleans up easily.

I can't advise you regarding veneering plywood as I have no experience of it.

Originally Posted by Claw Hama

Looking fantastic as usual WW, I think you must be getting back into practice, your work is looking sharper with each project.

You know what they say about practice, so I better keep at it.

Woodwould Esq.
Thank you for that fascinating insight into small tables, and for giving up what I am sure was a lot of time researching.

I look forward to seeing your finished product.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

I wrote about my methods of cutting veneer in this thread recently. As I mentioned in the other thread, don't use a coarse blade like you would for normal re-sawing (typically 3 TPI). Fine, regular saw marks from a 6 TPI blade are good. If the veneer is too smooth, I rough it up with a veneer plane anyway.

The only glue I ever use is animal glue. It does absolutely everything I ask of it, is reversible and cleans up easily.

I can't advise you regarding veneering plywood as I have no experience of it.

So after each veneer sheet, the stock is put through the thicknesser before cutting the next piece of veneer. Is keeping a rough side to the veneer necessary for bond strength when using only hide glue or other glues as well?

Do you clamp the veneer while drying or it not necessary with hide glue?

Zelk

Originally Posted by zelk

So after each veneer sheet, the stock is put through the thicknesser before cutting the next piece of veneer.

Correct.

Originally Posted by zelk

Is keeping a rough side to the veneer necessary for bond strength when using only hide glue or other glues as well?

There's a higher chance of success if both veneer and substrate are keyed before gluing – with animal glue at any rate. I can't speak for modern adhesives as I don't use them, but it stands to reason that a roughened surface provides a greater surface area for any type of glue to adhere to.

Originally Posted by zelk

Do you clamp the veneer while drying or it not necessary with hide glue?

No clamps are necessary.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

Correct.


There's a higher chance of success if both veneer and substrate are keyed before gluing – with animal glue at any rate. I can't speak for modern adhesives as I don't use them, but it stands to reason that a roughened surface provides a greater surface area for any type of glue to adhere to.


No clamps are necessary.

When using 3/32 in thick veneer, does it still lend itself to hammer veneering?

Does your reference to a roughened surface equate to something like sanding with 40 grit sandpaper?

Regards, Zelk

Originally Posted by zelk

When using 3/32 in thick veneer, does it still lend itself to hammer veneering?

Yes, though I use a suitably sized piece of MDF on-edge rather than a veneer hammer (mine mysteriously disappeared and I never got around to making another).

Originally Posted by zelk

Does your reference to a roughened surface equate to something like sanding with 40 grit sandpaper?

Hmm, I'm not sure. I don't have any 40-grit paper, but I would think it wouldn't be as deep cutting as a proper veneer plane blade. It would be worth a try though.

Fascinating work as usual Sire!

Your details on veneering are very instructive.