Thread: Ripping square, then ripping bevels on a slider .... !

Ian, what you are missing is that the tablesaw pictured is not mine - that is a left tilt. My slider, when converted to a tablesaw using the rip fence, has a right tilt (towards the fence). Mine WILL trap the work piece.



Yep ... scrub plane wins the day.

Regards from Perth

Derek

All this thread and its not your saw pictured? Lol .
Have I missed something ?


I use the largest of these in the inverted router if its a long enough run of legs and worth setting it up . A small number and Id be free hand taking off the corner on the buzzer.

2 Flute - 90deg Vee Groove Bit - Carbide Tipped - Carbitool

Or It may be this one . 2 Flute - 90deg Vee Groove Bit - Carbide Tipped - Carbitool

Both the same for chamfering . Great for London pattern chisel handles if you like them .

On your saw, you could fit a sacrificial wooden fence to your fence and raise your blade at 45 degree through and into it a touch. Then push the tapered legs through with a push stick or two .

auscab

All this thread and its not your saw pictured? Lol .
Have I missed something ?

Rob, I probably wasn’t clear enough when I included the tablesaw to illustrate what the slider could not do.

Mainly, I have been curious to find a method for a slider that others may use .... which clearly would have eluded my feeble brain. I have other methods to use, which I have done - the easiest being a scrub plane, which was fine to do on 40mm square sections, but this is not as easy with 25 or 30mm sections since these are difficult to grip in a face vise and have clearance to plane. Then a router table makes sense.

Someone here may wonder why I do not simply turn the square sections directly. Well, one can and I have, but with dry Hard Maple there is the risk of an edge splintering and tearing off. Better to first remove the edge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Originally Posted by ian

what am I missing ??
snip

Don't let BobL see the dust in this photo

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Ian, what you are missing is that the tablesaw pictured is not mine

all good then

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I have other methods to use, which I have done - the easiest being a scrub plane, which was fine to do on 40mm square sections, but this is not as easy with 25 or 30mm sections since these are difficult to grip in a face vise and have clearance to plane. Then a router table makes sense.

Derek, if I recall correctly, your bench has dogs and a tail (or is it a Wagon) vise.

Seems to me that gripping the legs between the dogs -- with a strip of wood either side to prevent rotation -- would give more than enough to use the scrub plane

Originally Posted by ian

all good then

Thanks, Ian, saved me posting again.

The workpiece also was not flush against the fence, a bit sloppy; certainly not the way Derek would have sawn it.

Slider Fence 2.jpg

I shall make up a fixture for the slider after this bunch of stools. There are likely to be many occasions in the future to make use of one.

In the meantime I used the scrub plane ...



Here you can see the corners removed and the round being turned. Dry Hard Maple is not the most fun to turn, although it finishes well.



And enough legs for three stool. All rough turned at this stage.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

In the meantime I used the scrub plane ...

Derek
I'm curious why you didn't just pinch the legs between a dog and your wagon vise to knock the corners off.

Is there a reason ??

Too much "stuff" on the bench, Ian

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Too much "stuff" on the bench, Ian

very hard to believe that you couldn't clear 4' (?) x 6" along part of your bench

Ian, after a little clean up ...



... I discovered some space at the end of the bench to plane the stretchers ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
I use my SC-2 slider with a wooden frame attached to the slider that I clamp boards or panels onto to make raised panel sections . Easy to setup and use to get good a good finish off the blade and from memory I use about 20 degree blade tilt. Very pleased to hear you are using a Wharton Esherick design as I had the pleasure of a private tour through his house/workshop two years ago in PA USA where many of his special designs are on display.
Cheers,
Paintman