Thread: Ripping square, then ripping bevels on a slider .... !

Either on the jointer or a simple jig to hold them at 45degeees and through the thicknesser

Thanks RB. I thought the same. I am planing on a fence for the bandsaw (easier to add a fence that set and re-set the table). But I was wondering if it could be done on a slider or table saw when the blade tilts right?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, ask over at SMC or the Felder Yahoo group and see what answers you get, I would be interested to see what those guys say. There is some of debate over left and right tilt cabinet saws which you might be aware of as well. I did it on my jointer with no problems as River Builder suggested and did not bother with the saw.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

But I was wondering if it could be done on a slider or table saw when the blade tilts right?

Just set the rip fence, tilt the blade and drop the height so it just clears the top; that's how I've done it. I see you have a Hi-Lo fence, which makes it even easier to get a push stick in.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Just set the rip fence, tilt the blade and drop the height so it just clears the top; that's how I've done it. I see you have a Hi-Lo fence, which makes it even easier to get a push stick in.

this is how I did it in the past

The thought of running the board under the angled blade leaves my blood cold.

Regards from Perth

Derek

But...that's how table saws work...

I may be missing the point here due to my 3D concept issues that make it hard to think about stuff like this but how about some sort of fixture/sled that has a tilting fence on it like a jointer that can be fixed to the slider.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

I may be missing the point here due to my 3D concept issues that make it hard to think about stuff like this but how about some sort of fixture/sled that has a tilting fence on it like a jointer that can be fixed to the slider.

this is the exact method dad used on his sliding table saws that he made, it was very difficult ( and expensive) to engineer a tilting blade mechanism so he built an auxiliary adjustable angle table to go on top of the standard one, worked a treat. Just set the fence to the right distance to cut exactly to the bottom edge, and off you go.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

this is the exact method dad used on his sliding table saws that he made, it was very difficult ( and expensive) to engineer a tilting blade mechanism so he built an auxiliary adjustable angle table to go on top of the standard one, worked a treat. Just set the fence to the right distance to cut exactly to the bottom edge, and off you go.

RB, that is my thought as well - for both the slider and the bandsaw. Since I plan to be building more turned legs in the future, it is worth the time to build a fixture (in the same vein as the squared one in the first post).

Any pics available of the one your dad built?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Could the leg be held at the ends so it could be turned on its own axis like in a lathe?

Chris, that is an excellent idea. This gives me a plan.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

RB, that is my thought as well - for both the slider and the bandsaw. Since I plan to be building more turned legs in the future, it is worth the time to build a fixture (in the same vein as the squared one in the first post).

Any pics available of the one your dad built?

Regards from Perth

Derek

No photos unfortunately ( like so many things) but here’s a rough (very) sketch. You lose a bit of cutting capacity but not too much, and by setting the fence to let the square corners run against, it keeps it parallel, a hold down would be easy to make up.

Edit; if the sections are not too long, holding them on a jig between centres Is also a great method, just use a block cut at 45 degrees to hold the stock from spinning, cut,remove block, turn, place block, cut, remove block, turn, etc,etc,

Hi Derek

I struck the same problem a couple of years ago when putting wide bevels on picture frames.

Picture Frame Detail.jpg

My first option was to use the router table, but I could not find a suitable bit.

My penultimate solution was to build an auxiliary fence 400mm high that clamped over the existing fence. The assembled frams were held vertical against the fence and moved across the blade. This worked OK, but I was never comfortable with it as it basically meant using the slider like a table saw - and I didn't like working over the blade. Hence penultimate.

I have given a lot of thought about what to do in the future and the best I can come up with - untested at this stage - is a donkey ear shooting board that fits into the T-track on the slider:

• on most sliders the blade tilt allows cuts from around 91° down to 43°, better than the nominal 90-45,
• If we add a shooting board ramped at 30° then this will change this range to 61° down to 13° [ 91 - 30 = 61° ]
• 
  Realistically, one is hardly likely to cut a bevel lower than 13°.
• The fence would then be set forward of the blade as an alignment fence, the work piece secured on the ramp and the saw used as a slider.
• Seems sound - functionally and safety wise.

This is similar to what Riverbuilder suggested.