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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    Wongo, can you use a harsh grit and a belt sander to mould the chest area? Or a surform?
    No for 2 reasons. It is a tight area (with the head and legs in the way) and the centre of the chest concaves in slightly. So the only way to do it is to carve and then hand sand.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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  3. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    No for 2 reasons. It is a tight area (with the head and legs in the way) and the centre of the chest concaves in slightly. So the only way to do it is to carve and then hand sand.
    Ok, it was just a thought, back to training the termites then...

  4. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    I think the gag is to stop him getting horse flu
    That's an old gag! and a reasonably clever pun
    Cheers
    Jim

    "I see dumb peope!"

  5. #79
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    Been reading this thread with quite some interest and you have inspired me to give it a go.

    Sorry if it's a bit of topic but a question, is it worthwhile trying the half sized ones before going the whole hog or is it like making boxes, ie the smaller they are the more fiddly and exact you have to be?

  6. #80
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    The large horse is a lot heavier and needs more room to handle, otherwise there is no difference between a large horse and a small horse.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #81
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    G'day Wongo,

    You're a curse, you've put images of rocking horses and rocking chairs in my head - as if i don't have enough to do.

    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  8. #82
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    Hi Wongo and all the other thread followers. Picture attached of my latest made from reclaimed Oak and Ash. Anthony Dew medium sized utilising his deluxe accessory set. I totally agree with Wongo about painted horses and also his comment about the accessories. Looking forward to seeing Wongo's finished horse. Went to Fangfoss last weekend and met the great man himself got some great bargains on accessories too.

    Regards

    Pete

  9. #83
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    Nice rocking horse Pete. Is that the same one you showed us last year?

    This one turns its head to the other side. That’s interesting.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  10. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Vivian View Post
    Went to Fangfoss last weekend and met the great man himself got some great bargains on accessories too.
    How is he doing? He must be in his 70s now.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  11. #85
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    Hi Wongo
    no this is another one, the last was Mahogany on an Oak stand, the one before was Mahogany on an Ash stand. I just decided to turn the head that way on the first and have done the same ever since. Tony seemed fine I guess he has to be at least well into his late sxties, I've got one of his books from way back like all of us he looks a lot younger then! I've just started another horse this time a small in Cherry on an Oak stand to be followed by a small painted (!) on bows. Speak soon

    Pete

  12. #86
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    Made some more progress on the horse’s body. There is a lot of timber to remove. Every corner must go. You really should take your time, do it slowly but not be afraid to cut the wood off.

    There is nothing worse than a horse with a square bottom. I have seen plenty of them.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  13. #87
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    I wanted to take a break from the carving. So I made the stand. I am using Tallowwood for the stand.

    First I need to get the posts turned. Dress the wood to 95mm square. Cut the corners off which made it easier for the turning.

    A quick trip to my mate Ron and they were done. Thanks Ron.

    I am very happy with result. The design turned out nicely.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  14. #88
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    Don’t forget to undercut the shoulder. It will guarantee the joint with no gaps.

    Build a little jig to support the post. It makes the scraping and sanding a lot easier. Make 2 cuts to the tenon on a bandsaw. Cut the wedges on a drop saw. 4 to 5 degrees will be sufficient. Since the wedges on the top rails are visible so it is a good idea to file the wedges to a perfect fit.

    Don’t forget that the wedges should be at an right angle to the direction of the grain on the board. Otherwise the wood will split when you hammer the wedges home.

    I use epoxy for this joint as it will fill up any cavity exists in the joint. I also added a number of screws from underneath to strengthen the joints.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  15. #89
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    G'day Wongo,

    This is great watching your progress and for that reason it should be archived into Best of the Best. Second time around I'd guess there be less trepidation when you're doing the carving.

    I'll archive this thread on me Mac when your done, that way I can come back to it when I convince SWMBO that I have to make one of these for Sarah.

    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  16. #90
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    Wongo

    I reckon I might start one of these for my Grandkids - my children are only 2 and 4, but I reckon it will take me 20 years to make one of these!!!
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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