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Thread: Sewing Table - multiple posts
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13th January 2011, 01:30 PM #1
Sewing Table - multiple posts
I started a little sewing-table for LOML over the christmas/new year break. I meant to take lots of photos, knowing how much you voyeuristic lot seem to like WIPs. However, I sort of got stuck into it & forgot to use the camera, at times, so there are a lot of gaps in the pictorial record......
Just in case you don't know what I'm talking about, I've included a pic of an old sewing table from the early 1800s. Ladies’ sewing & game tables were popular from somewhere in the 1700s to late Victorian times (at least that’s what my superficial research tells me – WW can step in here with any corrections). Being made over such a longish time, and for the very wealthy as well as people of more restricted means, they varied enormously in design & how elaborate they were, so there are lots of styles to choose from – almost anything could be ‘authentic’. The ‘bag drawer’ is for bulkier bits, and I thought it would be fun to incorporate that. My effort is not a copy of any particular table, it’s meant to be a little bit fancy as well as functional, and a ‘provincial’ style is best suited to our modest mansion.
I had some nice bits of American Cherry and Birds-eye Maple hoarded away for a long time. I’m usually very cautious about combining different woods, but these two woods seem to go together very well. Cherry is also a beautiful wood to work with, and I was enjoying myself so much, the legs were turned up and morticed for sides & fronts before I remembered to pick up the camera. The first progress shot shows a dry-fit of the front. The top rail is dovetailed into the legs with a single tail each end, and there are paired tenons on the two drawer dividers. These were straightforward – marked out with mortice gauge (marking the mortices on the legs simultaneously) saw to lines, chop out waste and dig out the mortices, and fit.
The sides are 210mm wide, making for a very wide tenon, so they were divided, which is supposed to reduce the chance of the side splitting from seasonal movement. There are several different ways to cut the tenons, but I used the following method:
Set up tablesaw and carefully cut each shoulder just shy of the scribe line.
(pic 3)
Now, make a series of passes over each tenon at the same depth (again just shy of the layout lines).
Knock the remaining dags of wood off with a sharp chisel.
(pic 4)
(continued next post)IW
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13th January 2011 01:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th January 2011, 01:38 PM #2
Sewing table part 2
(pic 1) Plane tenon flat & true with my trusty 78.
(pic 2) Clean up shoulder to scribe line with shoulder plane.
(pic 3) Now tenons are divided:
(pic 4) And the fit tested (another whisker is needed off the one in the pic to get the shoulder to snug up all the way along).
Now a long, blank skirt is a bit dull, so I dressed it up a bit with a bead along the bottom edge. I do have a couple of beading bits, but I don’t like using screaming ‘lectron burners unless there’s a lot of grunt work, so out with a scratch-stock, a few minutes of scraping, and there you have three nice beads... (pic 5)
(more yet...)IW
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13th January 2011, 01:46 PM #3
I'm one of those voyeuristic lot when I'm not doing other stuff.
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13th January 2011, 01:47 PM #4
Sewing Table part 3
OK, time to glue up front & back, and prepare the drawer runners. These are morticed into the front dividers, and the back apron – just a shallow mortice will do as they are going to carry very little weight. A strip of wood is glued on to the leg side of each runner to keep the drawer straight. I always take great care fitting runners & guides, nothing more irritating than getting the darn things off, and having to trim them after glue-up – a very difficult job in such a confined space!
So turn on the glue-pot while getting clamps ready & a last-minutr dry-fit or two...
And here it is off the clamps, and checking drawer-fronts for squareness & fit (pic 1).
Now for the drawers & bag slide. The bag slide is the simplest, so it was done first. There is room only for a single dovetail on each corner, and no drawer-bottom to help brace the frame square, so, the front and back are quite thick (25mm) to give long tails which add a bit of strength & bracing against twist. Before assembly, I cut a slot and easement along each side to accomodate the aluminium angle. The aluminium was then screwed to the legs front & back. The aluminium is completely out of sight, even with the drawer fully open – not a purist’s solution, but it works well. (pic 2)
And finally, to the drawers themselves. Cherry happens to be a stable & durable wood that makes excellent drawer sides, and against the Maple, makes the dovetails obvious (if you are going to all that trouble, you may as well show ‘em off, I suppose). The sides are quite thin (<10mm) so I chose to use slips to hold the bottoms. Here is the pile of drawer parts cut out & ready to mark up. (pic 3)
The front d-tails have fine pins, but the rear are more even pins & tails – less fussy to make & stronger, & they are seldom seen, even by other critical woodies. The bottoms are some slices off a chunk of Atlantic Cedar someone gave me – a beautifully aromatic wood. The Maple was ‘orrible stuff to chisel for the half-lap dovetails, it is such swirly grain. I ended up with a couple of minor gaps where the wood crumbled . Only another woodie would notice, but it annoys me!
After much umming & arring, I had the recipient choose the drawer pulls. I wanted them to be her choice, so no pressure was applied to chose any particular style. She opted for these faceted glass knobs (which just happened to be the most expesive bits of cupboard jewellry I’ve seen!). However, I think they look fine on the piece. The finish is much-watered-down polyurethane, several coats ragged on & wiped off to get a sheen without much build-up. Then a rub-down with 0000 steel wool & U-beaut wax, and it’s ready for a few coffee spills... (last pic)
Whew!
PS - still have to fit the castors, but had to order the ones I need, & the boss has to make the scrotum. We are marooned on the other side of a very large amount of water, so neither will get fitted for a little while, I'd say....IW
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13th January 2011, 01:48 PM #5
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13th January 2011, 01:58 PM #6
There' no moss on me.
I've not used any of those timbers from across the other place. I think the choice of the two timbers has come up very well and finishes it all off very nicely.
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13th January 2011, 02:17 PM #7
Very nice!
I attempted a similar thing which can be seen in woodwork pics 'A ladies work table' but mine has trays and not draws.
RegardsHugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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13th January 2011, 02:55 PM #8
Too nice. I'm not entirely sold on the glass knobs though.
.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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13th January 2011, 04:04 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Very nice . That is a great piece of birdseye maple and really sets off the cabinet.
I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan
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13th January 2011, 05:12 PM #10
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13th January 2011, 05:39 PM #11
beautiful work
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13th January 2011, 05:47 PM #12.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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13th January 2011, 08:45 PM #13
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14th January 2011, 08:02 PM #14
Nice work
love the birdseyeregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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14th January 2011, 09:45 PM #15gravity is my co-pilot
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