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Thread: Study - WIP

  1. #31
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    Dec 2008
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    Nice work. 6 monitor study...insane!

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  3. #32
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    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
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    Looking back over this thread, it seems like I am going at a snail's pace, but truly I haven't.

    Anyways, we now have 1 completed cabinet, polished and finished with EEE.

    Bought some nice plain handles from Lincoln Sentry.

    This picture shows the cabinets complete, but I still have to remove the right side doors to finish the polishing. The left side is done ... .





    In the mean time I have started manufacture of the cabling cupboard, which will house a central patch panel, Ethernet switch, router and a couple of NAS units. It will be pushed into the wall cavity on the right hand side.



    It will have another pair of raised panels doors similar to the others, and the architrave will also be SBG with mitred corners, which necessitated research on shooting boards, as the finish off the SCMS wasn't going to cut it.

    So, I made my first shooting board over two nights after work.



    I must say, I do like the precision of the result, and I will most definitely be using it (and the construction techniques in future).

    This is a shot of the arc joint prior to finishing.



    Not the easiest timber to shoot, even using my freshly sharpened #8 ... which flew through test pieces of pine like they weren't there.

    Anyway, we are getting there .... Need to be finished pretty soon so I can start cabling in the roof before the sun returns.

    Thanks for looking, and ad always, comments welcomed.

    Cheers...
    Glenn Visca

  4. #33
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    Been a while since my last update. We are on the home stretch now !

    Cabling cupboard built and painted. Even manufactured some 19" mounting rails for my rack mounted kit and patch panels. Doors for cabling cupboard are machined but not assembled. I am currently polishing the panels before final glue up and polishing of Stiles and rails.

    Display case manufactured, architrave machined assembled and also undergoing final polishing.

    Boxed out the wall cavity for mounting these cases over the weekend and plastered up. Doing the final fill after work each night. I am pretty crappy at plastering so here is hoping. I think I end up sanding most of the filler off ... But we will get there.



    Glenn Visca

  5. #34
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    This will be the last post in the thread for a while.

    Have finally finished cabinets, reinstalled architraves around the modified wardrobe, reinstalled the wardrobe shelf, cabled up shed loads of drops around the house to the cabling cupboard and punched down, installed my old ethernet switch.

    Final step swill be making the desk (well .. having it made). Some thought required into the desk surface ... Which will probably be a laminate with a timber bullnose edging to match the joinery ... I think :confused:

    Learnt lots on this little journey ...

    1. Machine finishes aren't necessarily as good as the finish of a good plane or scraper.
    2. Perfectly acceptable to do plenty of sanding between sessions of French polishing to flatten out the surface.
    3. Sydney Blue Gum is very nice timber, but its bloody hard.
    4. When machining bloody hard timber, sharp blades are a must.
    5. Grain filling before French polishing (on SBG) is a must.











    Thanks for looking ...
    Glenn Visca

  6. #35
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    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
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    Default Study Bench

    Dear learned ones,

    I was hoping you can help me get out of my quandary on how to best manufacture the desk for my study ... its been 12 months since I finished the cabinets - so I figure its about time I finished the job.

    Having chewed on this for 12 months, I think I have decided to build the bench out of Sydney Blue Gum boards to tie in with the cabinets overhead that I built 12 months ago. These are 200 x 25 rough sawn presentation grade boards.

    Study - Plan.png

    Along the top of the "T", the bench will be around 4 metres. The down stroke of the "T" (measured from the wall) will be around 2 metres. Along the rear of the bench (ie. the left/right stroke of the T) there will be a cable cavity with hinged lid to conceal things like power supplies, ethernet points, etc. etc.

    Underneath said bench, I reckon I will probably build a frame which I can build first and then lay the top on the frame with table tabs to hold down while allowing movement.

    Machine wise - I am limited to an old 6" short bed jointer, and a 16" Jet thicknesser, so there will definitely be some hand finishing involved as I wont be able to pass any completed sections in their entirety through the thicknesser should my glue ups not come up dead flat.

    My difficulties are twofold ...

    1. Grain Direction. Of course, I need to ensure the bench top has the ability to expand/contract. If the bench was simply running across the wall from left to right - its no big deal. Grain goes left to right. However, in the shape of a "T" with the added complexity of the keyboard landing on the 45 degree, I am at a loss on how best to lay out the boards. I can see 3 options so far. In each option, I have tried to represent each board individually, as 150x19 finished dimensions. (if I can make these more like 180x19 I probably will).

    Option 1
    Of the 3 options, I am leaning toward this one.
    Study Desk Option1.jpg

    Option 2
    My least favoured of the 3.
    Study Desk Option2.jpg

    Option 3
    If I was building a deck, this is how I would do it. But, there are many angles to get absolutely correct to keep the whole thing together. This would also generate the most waste (and at $25 per l/m, I want to avoid as much of that as I can. I think this one would look the best if I could pull it off - but I dont think I am quite that confident.
    Study Desk Option3.jpg


    Any comments or recommendations ?

    2. Joinery.

    * Where boards are joined along their length, I figure a sprung joint with titebond should suffice. Perhaps with the addition of some concealed splines to aid in alignment.

    * I will have to build the bench in sections, so where sections are butt joined at their edges (e.g. Section A1 to Section A2, Section B to A1/A1 and Section C to B) I was wondering about using kitchen bench panel bolts to pull the two sections together, and then hold down with slotted table tabs. Alternatively, a cleat/block glued/screwed to the underside the bench top on each side of Section A1 and A2 which could then be pulled together with a series of small bolts.

    Final Question - Subframe Timber Selection

    Does anyone have any recommendations for the subframe timber selection ? I want something that is solid of course, but with minimal movement and will machine nicely. After all, this is a bench top that will need to support a fair amount of weight. 6 monitors, 2 PCs, a couple of laptops, a printer etc. etc. My design intent would be to have the subframe largely unseen.

    Thanks for helping !
    Glenn Visca

  7. #36
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    Nov 2007
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    Until just now I never really though that the top will be a problem as I was thinking in line of a kitchen bench top build.

    This is when you have two tops coming together at a corner for this example 90 degrees both pieces are cut at 45 degrees so that they joint at that point. If we take the long back piece and cut 45 degrees from center left and right you end up with a 90 degree angle. The middle piece can then be cut to wedge into that 90 degree angle. It would be more like option 3 but the extra bit on the side is what will be difficult with this suggestion.

    But it will effectively means you can have the top made out of three separate pieces and install when you get them to the study.

    The downside and concern is what wood movement will there be? I really don't know, I might be able to offer a guess but that's not really fair.

    How wide will the middle piece(section B) be?

  8. #37
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    Standby Christos. We have had a rethink, and now a preferred option 4 ... That features 3 leather inlays.

    Of course, I still think I have some joinery questions.

    Stay tuned !
    Glenn Visca

  9. #38
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    Hi Glenn

    First you need to rethink the ergonomics of the 6 screens.
    If you place them in an arc so that each set of 3 is approximately the same distance from its controlling seat position, I don't think you will end up with a T shape, more likely it will evolve into a pair of crescent shaped desks.

    Can you put the CPUs under the desk and just have the scanner / printer / keyboards / mice / DVD drive on the desk?

    when you build the desks, run the boards all in one direction, with a join down the centre of the leg of the "T".
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #39
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    Nov 2012
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    Hi Glenn
    Very nice work so far. Question, How high is your desk/bench from the floor level. I see that your screens are sitting on the bench. I have 3 screens myself but mine are elevated 105 mm from the desk so I could look straight at them. Also where are you putting the keyboards. I have a key board drawer but I usually leave it on the desk which is too high really. If I use the drawer, then I am sitting too far back to be comfortable.

  11. #40
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    Ian, you are right of course. The reality is the screens will end up in a crescent.

    Both my partner and I are in the IT industry, so we have laptops on docking stations (z fold stations), and at least 1 aux screen. The z stations are engineered to allow the laptop screen to sit at approx the same height as the aux, and an external wireless keyboard used in favour of the lappy keyboard.

    I also have my home PC that does non work related stuff ( like sketchup drawings, iTunes ... You know .. all that stuff that shouldn't be on my work related lappy). So in that circumstance, I would swivel chair to another keyboard.

    Having said that, I have to work within the confines of the space available.

    Justonething,

    The desk is currently 738 from floor to top of desk. The bottom of the apron is 645 allowing enough room for our legs to get underneath. My partner Nic is just short of 6' tall with very long legs, so she is tricky to design around. If she lowers her chair, she ends up bent like a paper clip, but the top of the desk can't be too high or it becomes troublesome for neck and back.

    Our desks at work are about 730 high, but of course are made from melamine and steel bracing etc.

    For years I have seen those pull out / dropped keyboard trays, but I could count the number of times they are used on 1 hand, for all the reasons you mention. Rarely do they provide room for a mouse either.

    Personally I hate the bloody things.
    Glenn Visca

  12. #41
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    Glenn

    just to help your design ...
    the distance between the top of your desk and the bottom of any supporting rail or apron need be no more than about 65-70mm.
    Of course this will result in very shallow rails if your desk top is 30 to 40mm thick.

    here's one idea for a crescent shaped top ...
    crescent desk.jpg
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  13. #42
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    Here is the now preferred Option 4.

    Study Desk v3 - Option 4a.jpg

    Study Desk v3 - Option 4b.jpg

    The top will be made of 20mm Sydney Blue Gum (same as the overheads). However, in this option, we will add 3 leather inlays (shown in green).

    Construction will begin with a frame - made from (nominally) 55x30 hardwood. The frame will be made in 4 pieces and will be bolted together in the study. The left/right stroke of the T will sit on a cleat that is bolted to the wall. I originally thought about bolting this frame to the wall, but the wall is less than straight and it will pull the frames out of square. So I figure I will attached cleat to the wall, sit the frame on the cleat and make up special brackets that fix the two together that don't pull the frame out of square. Note - there are some cross members that I am yet to draw - and the joinery methods are not drawn either.

    Study Desk v3 - Option 4 - Frame.jpg

    With the frame built, I will make the top substrate. Again, made in 4 pieces from (nominally) 12mm sheet stock. The substrate will be fixed to the frame by way of slotted table tabs (not sure what the correct terminology is there...)

    Study Desk v3 - Option 4 - Substrate.jpg

    The downstroke of the "T" will be supported by the drawer cabinet, and the middle (or more as need be) of the left/right stroke of the "T" will have a leg positioned out of harms way.

    With the substrate in position, I will add the timber finished top. Of course, it will only be the outside edges, leaving the centres void for the leather inlay (shown in green). The finished timber top will be 20mm thick, which gives me an 18mm substrate for the inlay base + 1mm of upholstery leather from Leffler's - allowing 1mm to shim up the leather so its flush to the top of the table.

    The outside bottom edge of the top will have a dress piece glued to cover the substrate, and the frame will have a dress apron attached to pretty the whole thing up.

    The top will be fixed to the substrate with wafer head screws on mudguard washers through oversized holes in the substrate to allow for movement.

    The underside of the inlay base will have a rebate routed all around (nominally 3mm deep x 25mm wide) to allow the leather to be wrapped around the edges of the inlay base and stapled. The leather will be glued to the inlay base with contact adhesive.

    If anyone has comments on the methods of joinery for the top - I am all ears. To say I am nervous about movement is an understatement. I know that having a 20mm timber top on a substrate is probably overkill, but I don't have the machinery to resaw stock 200mm wide - so I would rather use it than turn it into sawdust. The 20mm SBG + 12mm MDF should give a good solid table top I think.
    Glenn Visca

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Glenn

    just to help your design ...
    the distance between the top of your desk and the bottom of any supporting rail or apron need be no more than about 65-70mm.
    Of course this will result in very shallow rails if your desk top is 30 to 40mm thick.

    here's one idea for a crescent shaped top ...
    crescent desk.jpg
    Ahhh ... thanks Ian - food for thought. I had visions of crescent - as in 2 x crescent moons attached to each other. But what you suggest is clearer now.
    Glenn Visca

  15. #44
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    the other way of doing a leather inlay is to cut a ~1mm deep recess into the top and install the leather in the recess so that it finishes flush with the solid top.
    You just need to be able to cut the leather to match the edges of the recess, and then glue it right up to the very edge of the recess.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    the other way of doing a leather inlay is to cut a ~1mm deep recess into the top and install the leather in the recess so that it finishes flush with the solid top.
    You just need to be able to cut the leather to match the edges of the recess, and then glue it right up to the very edge of the recess.
    The biggest problem with that method is the risk of the leather starting to lift/peel at the edges if the glueing isn't 100% right. It will also be a painful process if the leather needs replacing. A wrapped panel is the way to go.

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