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Thread: Surprise!
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1st April 2019, 08:59 PM #121
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1st April 2019 08:59 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st April 2019, 09:13 PM #122.
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You would be much better off with a small alaskan mill like this.
Sorry I only have the mostly "schlomo" version uploaded on youtube.
After watching a few seconds the rest is more or less the same.
Thats a 71cc saw running a 3/8 Lopro chain sharpened to a ripping profile - its about 30% narrower than regular 3/8 chain.
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1st April 2019, 10:05 PM #123
Thanks Bob. The timber I’m cutting is already roughly milled to 150 x 150 and what I was looking for (and thought I had bought!) was something like a Haddon Mill where you screw a guide to the timber and then cut at 90 deg to that guide. I’ve also seen them described as a beam saw or beam saw jig?
My current one tracks along (an inadequate!) triangular extrusion which allows a lot of rotation. I have seen another, and will try to find a link, where a ‘saddle’ fits over a 6 x2 fixed to the workpiece.a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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1st April 2019, 10:08 PM #124
Found it...
https://youtu.be/EvnVOrP6QUka rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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1st April 2019, 10:58 PM #125.
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Yep you ned to be able to completely lock it down and kill that rotation.
I made a similar thing that rides on a 3.5 m long, 70 x 35 mm RHS galv steel beam. Mine has multiple fine adjustment capabilities and can operate using the back of the bar so that forces the sawdust down instead of up all over the operator. The other benefit is it will work at any angle even upside down if needed.
I still don't think its' as good as an alaskan for accurate milling.
I use mine mainly for making park furniture out of whole logs.
cutting1.jpg Hcut2.jpg Sofa3.jpg
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2nd April 2019, 09:36 AM #126
Alan, I think it would be pretty difficult not to get some twisting with such a lightweight guide - you are extending it past its design limits, I reckon!. But if you are getting consistent results and the laminates are coming off close to parallel, wot's the worry? Presumably you are allowing a bit extra in width for trimming after glue-up, so it should all end up square after clean-up??
Something like this "Ripper Mill" gives you the stiffness you are after, but this would be a bit too bulky for you current job: pic 1 Carriage.jpg pic2 carriage on rail.jpg
There are lugs on the rail so it can be screwed onto the log (roofing screws are ideal). Roll the saw onto the guide, set the distance & blade angle & away you go: sawing camphor.jpg
I think it was made somewhere up the road (Sunshine Coast area)??. My old pot bought it about 30 years ago & I inherited it about 15 years ago. It's the bees' knees for logs over about 500mm diameter and heavy enough to sit stably while you are pushing the saw through. Gotta love the handle attachment he made for it, with a bicycle gear-cable jury-rigged to the throttle. The 070 died a few years ago, and I had to get a replacement. The old handle can't easily be adapted to the new saw, so on the few occasions I've used it, since, I had to just pull the saw through by its normal handle - makes it 3 times the work! I'll get a round tuit & make a new handle someday, but I don't do much milling any more - my body tells me it's not as much fun as it used to be...
Cheers,IW
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20th April 2019, 04:49 PM #127
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18th May 2019, 05:36 PM #128
I’m back on to the project. Basically, cutting the multiple laminations for the curved pieces has been making too much dust because the poorest part of my dust collection regime has been the above blade collection on the table saw. It had to be fixed! That job led to another ..... and another ..... and another!
Today I cut enough laminations (with little dust!) to finish the job and glued and clamped another curved rail...
1F5848EB-4B24-4406-8370-3DA565FCAEFD.jpg
I trialled the dowel joining of the curved sections to the posts. The self-centring dowel jig won’t drill on the centreline of a curved piece so I corrected it by packing out one side by 2.5mm.
36D0949F-6B33-43EE-B01F-F6C472FCBDFA.jpg
The posts were drilled with with the same jig by drawing a centre line on the post AND REMOVING THE 2.5mm PACKING
B09C22A1-A0F4-4E62-B795-386715DFFCF8.jpg 81585FBC-613D-44BE-93CD-5D334DD5780F.jpg
One of my concerns was how well the straight face of the post would merge with the curved face of the rail but I now don’t think I have a problem...
53A173DB-0BCA-4D03-8D6E-DFB373411BA5.jpga rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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21st May 2019, 12:27 PM #129
Yay, last curved rail is in the former........... unless I change the design AGAIN?
DD8370D8-BC10-4F42-B931-0A47A0389A18.jpg
Mind you, that does bring epic amounts of sanding even closera rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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21st May 2019, 06:38 PM #130
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21st May 2019, 09:30 PM #131Woodworking mechanic
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What brands the doweling jig Fletty?
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21st May 2019, 11:12 PM #132
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22nd May 2019, 09:16 AM #133
It appears to have NO BRAND but in the instructions it is referred to as ‘The Eagle’?
I got it from Carbatec many years ago but the $79 price tag surprises me?
B6EFECBA-2E01-4D5B-897F-721C8B47E004.jpg 6085D21C-3198-4310-A98B-E9E8ACE2A0E9.jpg 6C586425-51E2-452B-A554-79C55368AD8C.jpga rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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22nd May 2019, 11:52 PM #134Woodworking mechanic
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Found that Eagle item. $85 used, up to $170 new.
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23rd May 2019, 01:20 AM #135
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