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Thread: Surprise!
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13th June 2019, 01:50 PM #151
could be because fletty's using a WOP
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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13th June 2019 01:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th June 2019, 04:32 PM #152
Ive been asked to better explain how the Haddon jig works and this extra photo should help...
B4CFB400-91DE-40BC-80CF-A7E6932A2F96.jpg
The chainsaw is held by the clamp and pivots around the spindle on the jig allowing the blade to use a rocking action. The ‘saddle’ fits neatly around the ‘4 x 2’ pine guide and results in a very straight cut perpendicular to the guide. The ripping blade however was essential as a standard cross cut blade simply couldn’t clear the swarf, overheated and scorched the cut face.
Fence furniture ......... “rough”?
Until I met you, I didn’t know abrasives even went to 4 digits!a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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14th June 2019, 11:58 PM #153
Oh that grain the colour is beauty to behold.
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15th June 2019, 09:57 AM #154.
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At those widths of cuts, standard cross cut chain should have no issues clearing the sawdust.
I've made cuts up to 40" wide using standard cross cut chain with no sawdust clearing problems.
All my chains start out as cross cutting chain and over successive sharpening are converted to ripping profile.
If you are getting a scorched cut that suggests the chain is not sharp enough or not setup right.
If you take and post a perpendicular to side on photo of a couple of chain cutters I can photo analyse them to see if that is an issue.
Most problems with finish on chainsaw milling are caused by the operator or not having a rigid enough mill.
The best finishes are obtained by not repeatedly stopping and starting the cut and keeping a constant steady pressure, and not rock the saw back and forth.
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15th June 2019, 10:22 AM #155
Hi Fletty
Bob echoed what I had begun to think. I was not sure what you meant by ripping chain. Some people refer to skip tooth chain as ripping chain, but that is normally only recommended for long chainsaw bars. 26" would be considered minimum and even there is probably not worth the fuss. I have never used a skip tooth chain so I will leave that for Bob to comment upon, but I have used a 42" bar with standard (semi chisel) chain and it worked fine. That was on a Stihl with a 90cc motor.
The angle of the tooth 30/35degs is ideal for crosscutting but with a powered saw will also be suitable for ripping (compare hand saw teeth for crosscutting and ripping). However if you are chasing a smooth ("ish") finish the tooth angle will need to be brought back to about 10degs and I think this is what Bob is referring to "over successive" sharpenings. You can do it at one hit, but why? Just reduce the angle a little bit more each time you sharpen. You may not need to do this unless you are doing a lot of work and even then you may not need to do it.
Nothing comes for nothing! In reducing the tooth angle, yes, the cut will become smoother (providing the cut is made in a continuous pull) but it will also be slower. Trade off.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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15th June 2019, 11:02 AM #156.
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Ripping chain normally refers to a lower "top plate filing" angle as Paul describes below. I 've milled around 30 logs up to ~35" wide with skip chain and found it made little difference conspired to non-skip chain. I believe it makes a difference in really wide cuts but I never bothered with it.
The angle of the tooth 30/35degs is ideal for crosscutting but with a powered saw will also be suitable for ripping (compare hand saw teeth for crosscutting and ripping). However if you are chasing a smooth ("ish") finish the tooth angle will need to be brought back to about 10degs and I think this is what Bob is referring to "over successive" sharpenings. You can do it at one hit, but why? Just reduce the angle a little bit more each time you sharpen. You may not need to do this unless you are doing a lot of work and even then you may not need to do it.
Maintain the saw at the same angle in the cut - don't seesaw.
Don't stop and start, cut all the way non-stop at wide open throttle.
Use a rigid mill - that's why Alaskans are usually better than mills held at one end.
Don't push the saw hard - light pressure only so that it self feeds when the log is on a slope - if the saw needs to be pushed to cut then the chain is not set up right.
This is my standard finish and unless I stuff up it can often be better than my Upright BS.
Nicefinish.jpg
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19th June 2019, 08:28 PM #157
My conscience is clear, new piece made.....
DD12C861-DDAC-43EF-B369-B2CBB6CA2F93.jpga rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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20th June 2019, 12:30 PM #158SENIOR MEMBER
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And you have half a spare base for a future rocking chair.
mick
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20th June 2019, 05:01 PM #159
Today I had a bit of shed time and assembled one of the ‘gates’. Even though the uprights are flat, they merge well with the curved rails and only required a little sanding.
C8874BAC-6CEF-4A74-91AB-79DE7DC45E5A.jpg
I only had had enough time today to sand and radius one small area so this is a bottom corner, sanded, radiused and wiped with mineral turps. I’m very happy with how it looks.
0ED14132-0986-4F54-835F-14B080795DF4.jpg
Theres going to to be a bit of a delay while I’ll be on Grandfather duty but I’m still hoping to finish the whole suite in the next 4 weeks?a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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20th June 2019, 05:14 PM #160
That is coming up very nicely.
But gees, it certainly looks like a hard piece of dry, brittle timber.
You are going to love getting back to the Red Cedar after you finish this project.Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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24th June 2019, 05:34 PM #161
I’ve almost finished sculpting and sanding the first 2 of 6 gates. All of the following pics show the pieces wiped down with mineral turps only....
BB1ED4B2-A3E8-4EAD-B3CC-E8224DADF46A.jpg
The large flat surface which, for the sake of brevity, I will call a table top ....... because I might not be making a table ......... was being assembled and sanded outside and so a sudden rain storm reminded me just how heavy it is as it, and the tools were rushed inside!
08F93381-15FE-4C85-AE0C-B7DA193BAADB.jpg
The rain was was a wonderful excuse for a cuppa before returning again to cleaning up the centre joint of the table top. By the end of the day it had been sanded to 500# and a template fitted to the underside to rout the shaped ended tomorrow.
AA98C5BD-F669-4D42-A21B-ECC71643A87C.jpga rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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24th June 2019, 10:34 PM #162
That's beautiful Alan...
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25th June 2019, 12:28 PM #163
I didn’t mention it yesterday but the first job to be done today, and probably the reason why I knocked off early last night, involved end-grain routing which is how I cut off part of my finger last time! I have now finished that scarey bit and still have exactly 9.8 fingers and thumbs which is the number I started with !
I mounted my router into a dedicated base that I had made some years ago (and wasn’t using on that fateful day ) and used a solid tungsten carbide bearing pattern bit....
8D3348D4-9E3E-445E-AB42-45137AD251AF.jpeg
The template, a piece of 12mm ply, was fixed to the bottom surface and the router/follower bit/base combo worked brilliantly even given the hardness of the timber and the variable amounts to be removed...
A48DC732-1823-4A65-BC50-C8CF11FA05EF.jpeg 9331FDE9-1AA1-4D9C-AF3C-0E411B257EC9.jpeg
I then changed to a roundover bit and rounded all edges of the ‘table top’. I now have my first glimpse of how it would look ........ should I be making a table
50F900F2-4116-4EB5-A7F7-25544A7F62A8.jpeg FD72F151-B858-4609-8234-8ECA2B600E8D.jpeg 51869A5A-AF1B-4BBE-885A-6B6E8C043447.jpeg
I will now probably have to mill some more timber for the rails to support the table top as these are to be a major design homage to the tree and the timber already milled isn’t quite worthy enough?a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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25th June 2019, 01:09 PM #164
That's going to look fabulous!
Especially when sanded to 3000.
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25th June 2019, 01:43 PM #165
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