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Thread: Surprise!

  1. #46
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    By cutting on the front you spray the dust down and into a box to collect it for easy cleanup.

    I also like the way that they use what appears to be a stock ali extrusion as a guide bar and the chainsaw mount doesn't lose any cutting depth.

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  3. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Mafell do two versions, one cuts to 260 mm https://produkte.mafell.de/en/carpen...sx-ec?c=312977
    Crikey, even the first one is nearly 5 grand (ex VAT).....errr, that's 5 Grand in Euros....

    The bigger one is double the price for some reason, which would pretty much rule that one out

    Free shipping within Germany though.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  4. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    By cutting on the front you spray the dust down and into a box to collect it for easy cleanup.
    Yes, I've got my chain direction mixed up there. The Mafell does in fact draw the chips up through the saw and ejects them through a rectangular port, so not much chance of adding DE (have to be a proper big collector to cope). Maybe there's an adaptor.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  5. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    By cutting on the front you spray the dust down and into a box to collect it for easy cleanup.
    Obvious once said.

    I blind-sided myself, thinking more along the lines of the saw wanting to climb out of the cut and the bumpers being useless. But in this setup they're irrelevant anyway.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

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  6. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    .....- it will pull all the chips into the saw rather than spitting them out the front.
    ? How do you figure that, Brett? Whenever I use the top on my chainsaw (as in under-cutting a log, for e.g.), the chips fly forward & spew off the tip of the bar. Cutting on the bottom pulls them back (towards the drive sprocket). So much so that if you rip with the bar laid too low along the grain, the long shavings that come off can get pulled into the sprocket cowling & can stall it. Just had that very problem a couple of days ago, ripping some green Jacaranda!

    I can't see why you can't choose whichever side of the bar you want to use, by either pushing or pulling it along the guide. When you cut with the bottom of the bar, as per normal, the saw should pull itself into the cut to some extent. If you push it, cutting with the top side, you'll have to apply down-pressure or it will want to climb out. I think you are going to need to push down on the saw to keep it riding on that angular guide, anyway, but I'd try it both ways if it were me, & see which way works best....

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Crikey, even the first one is nearly 5 grand (ex VAT).....errr, that's 5 Grand in Euros....

    The bigger one is double the price for some reason, which would pretty much rule that one out

    Free shipping within Germany though.
    the reason might be that it is twice as heavy (44.2 kg) and has twice the power -- 2 x 3000W motors. (something I didn't pick up earlier, the big one is two phase -- "At the core of the MAFELL ZSX-TWIN Ec are the two 3000-Watt single-phase motors. They run at the same time on two 230 V phases of the three-phase electric power system." )

    If that's too much trouble, it looks like the 400 mm cut saw also comes in a 3000 W (= 4HP) version https://www.klokow-gmbh.de/en/Tools/...Ec-400-HM.html still almost 6000 Euros (about 4800, before VAT)


    at those prices, the Mafell saws make the 300 mm Festool at 1125 Euro (including 19% VAT) look like a steal https://www.klokow-gmbh.de/en/Tools/...ge-IS-330.html
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #52
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    "I can't see why you can't choose whichever side of the bar you want to use, by either pushing or pulling it along the guide. When you cut with the bottom of the bar, as per normal, the saw should pull itself into the cut to some extent. If you push it, cutting with the top side, you'll have to apply down-pressure or it will want to climb out. I think you are going to need to push down on the saw to keep it riding on that angular guide, anyway, but I'd try it both ways if it were me, & see which way works best....
    "


    Ian

    I agree.

    My own chainsaw guide rail holds the saw so it cannot jump out of the cut, but is intended to be pulled and cutting at anything far removed from 45 degs to the timber is very difficult. The chain needs to be super sharp needless to say.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #53
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    Both the ones I looked at had riving knives that looked integral to the sled. Considering the way at least one mounted the saw, via the bar nuts, there's only one way it can cut: top of the bar.

    Unless you could remove and/or swap around the riving knife... but I've seen nothing to indicate that.

    Not that this helps Fletty in any way. Sorry!
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  10. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    ? How do you figure that, Brett? Whenever I use the top on my chainsaw (as in under-cutting a log, for e.g.), the chips fly forward & spew off the tip of the bar.
    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Yes, I've got my chain direction mixed up there.
    I was in reverse for a while there....
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  11. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    I was in reverse for a while there....
    Have to account for the northern vs southern hemisphere counter rotation effect.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    I was in reverse for a while there....
    It's OK Brett, I have to confess to putting both chains & bandsaw blades on backwards a couple of times. Fortunately, the mistake was quickly spotted during the necessary adjustments, so haven't ever got to the stage of firing up the saw with a bass-ackward blade. Not sure which way the chips would fly in that case - most likely nowhere.......

    Cheers,
    IW

  13. #57
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    I was at Ag Quip one year and as we walked past a chainsaw stand that had a slabbing device set up, one of my children muttered

    "Chain's on back to front"

    and kept walking without breaking stride. He was about fifteen at the time.



    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletty View Post
    Thanks for the offer Chris but, even cut to length, each piece weighs nearly 60kg. I’m lucky that the design is totally unrestricted as my current concept requires lengths of 2100 but it can easily be changed to 1200 at this stage if handling and cutting the longer lengths becomes too difficult? The other driver to reduce the design length is that I’m going to be struggling to get CLEAR 2100 lengths anyway?
    Don't try and move these things around by yourself. Give us a call and we'll make a day of it.
    I'm not good on the thinkerating but I can lift heavy things
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  15. #59
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    yeah, agreed, would love an excuse for a visit (last one was aborted mid trip) so we can almost have an ol-fashioned barn raising!

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    yeah, agreed, would love an excuse for a visit (last one was aborted mid trip) so we can almost have an ol-fashioned barn raising!
    Forget the BARN raising........ tonight I’m in the mood for HELL raising ?
    I hearby commit to the Loyal Order Of Forumites (LOOF) that I will not lift them (*) on my own but will get my act together to the extent that I will have all necessary equipment, beer, wine and sangers gathered for a good old fashioned hell-raise in the new year?

    * this does not exclude me cutting short lengths to trial the milling jig before the brethren arrive
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

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