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Thread: Surprise!

  1. #121
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletty View Post
    Re the rip blade ............slow but steady wins the race
    Hmmmm, but better than before?
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  3. #122
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    You would be much better off with a small alaskan mill like this.

    Sorry I only have the mostly "schlomo" version uploaded on youtube.



    After watching a few seconds the rest is more or less the same.

    Thats a 71cc saw running a 3/8 Lopro chain sharpened to a ripping profile - its about 30% narrower than regular 3/8 chain.

  4. #123
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    Thanks Bob. The timber I’m cutting is already roughly milled to 150 x 150 and what I was looking for (and thought I had bought!) was something like a Haddon Mill where you screw a guide to the timber and then cut at 90 deg to that guide. I’ve also seen them described as a beam saw or beam saw jig?
    My current one tracks along (an inadequate!) triangular extrusion which allows a lot of rotation. I have seen another, and will try to find a link, where a ‘saddle’ fits over a 6 x2 fixed to the workpiece.
    .... if you can't see the bright side, polish the dull side

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    .... if you can't see the bright side, polish the dull side

  6. #125
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    Yep you ned to be able to completely lock it down and kill that rotation.

    I made a similar thing that rides on a 3.5 m long, 70 x 35 mm RHS galv steel beam. Mine has multiple fine adjustment capabilities and can operate using the back of the bar so that forces the sawdust down instead of up all over the operator. The other benefit is it will work at any angle even upside down if needed.

    I still don't think its' as good as an alaskan for accurate milling.

    I use mine mainly for making park furniture out of whole logs.
    cutting1.jpg Hcut2.jpg Sofa3.jpg

  7. #126
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    Alan, I think it would be pretty difficult not to get some twisting with such a lightweight guide - you are extending it past its design limits, I reckon!. But if you are getting consistent results and the laminates are coming off close to parallel, wot's the worry? Presumably you are allowing a bit extra in width for trimming after glue-up, so it should all end up square after clean-up??

    Something like this "Ripper Mill" gives you the stiffness you are after, but this would be a bit too bulky for you current job: pic 1 Carriage.jpg pic2 carriage on rail.jpg

    There are lugs on the rail so it can be screwed onto the log (roofing screws are ideal). Roll the saw onto the guide, set the distance & blade angle & away you go: sawing camphor.jpg

    I think it was made somewhere up the road (Sunshine Coast area)??. My old pot bought it about 30 years ago & I inherited it about 15 years ago. It's the bees' knees for logs over about 500mm diameter and heavy enough to sit stably while you are pushing the saw through. Gotta love the handle attachment he made for it, with a bicycle gear-cable jury-rigged to the throttle. The 070 died a few years ago, and I had to get a replacement. The old handle can't easily be adapted to the new saw, so on the few occasions I've used it, since, I had to just pull the saw through by its normal handle - makes it 3 times the work! I'll get a round tuit & make a new handle someday, but I don't do much milling any more - my body tells me it's not as much fun as it used to be...

    Cheers,
    IW

  8. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletty View Post
    No, the first 2 we did were quite square but the 2 I did today were both equally UNsquare? The petrol saw is considerably heavier so that might have something to do with it. For the next one/s, Iíll cant the guide board.
    Re the rip blade ............slow but steady wins the race
    Sounds like an Oregon I got you milled and cut timber for. Good job you've had you eyes fixed