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  1. #16
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    I need a back on the shelf for aesthetics (did you see the wallpaper??) and rigidity. I figure I'd make most of the shelves adjustable, with maybe a middle one solid for strength. Maybe solution will end up being bookshelves like last photo, on top of some cabinets for general storage. The room will be library/lounge (once we build the extension and move the bedroom).

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  3. #17
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    deleted: duplicate post

  4. #18
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    Any tips on getting real wood in 32mm and ~300 depth? DAR from Bunnings costs a fortune, even if they stock something this wide. MDF is about $100/sheet at 32mm. Ply about the same. I have a bandsaw but it probably doesn't have the height to cut this.

  5. #19
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    deleted: duplicate post

  6. #20
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    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    The normal way . If you need 32mm x 300mm for shelves you buy 38mm X 150 or 100 from somewhere like Mathews Timber , machine it to something like 35mm , edge it , glue them up , let them sit a day or two or more, on end breathing and settling . Then re machine to 32mm cut to finished width and length and fit . Don't try getting DAR to the size needed with no room to machine . Specially with Radiata pine.

    At a place like Mathews or one of the other cabinet timber dealers you can buy Clear Radiata . No Knots.

    If you want to go down the route of spending as little as possible on wood which leads to more time sorting and working you could go to The Tile importer in Oakleigh South. Buy construction grade Radiata for much less . long lengths and go about cutting around the knots for clear sections . Machine over size , Let it sit longer before re machining for glue up . glue up and then machine and fit .

  7. #21
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    Aug 2006
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    60
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    559

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    Honestly if your span is down to 650mm with center dividers and if you actually attach to the back as well then even 16mm MDF will do the duty if you are spreading the load out across the shelf or work towards the middle.

    Due to press printing books will fall into a range of default sizes, see Book size - Wikipedia

    For paperbacks if you allow 135mm deep and 225mm high you cover all normal sizes. This also fits DVDs that are normally 135mm x 190mm

    Hardbacks and larger books come in a big range but a 320mm deep will allow for up to folio size, if you have none that size you could drop down to 250mm deep.

    320mm deep does though allow for ornaments and photos to be placed on the shelves in addition to books
    My b sized paperback shelving is constantly sized at 135mm deep, the width was set based on the wall divided by 3 and is about a 600mm span. Units are all open backed so shelves only fixed in the rebates on each side.

    P1220052.jpg

    My larger book storage is again floor to ceiling but only 450mm wide units so bowing is effectively a non event, still open backed though.
    These are 290mm deep shelves with 320mm deep sides

    P1220051.jpg

    Shelf height is consistent top and bottom but varies in the middle to cater for the different max height hardbacks i had around
    Are shelves are fixed in place but i've used variable height

    Anything that is too tall gets laid down, standard paperbacks have ended up two deep in a couple of places

    Maybe this can give you some ideas

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyricnz View Post
    I need a back on the shelf for aesthetics (did you see the wallpaper??) and rigidity. .....
    No comment on your wallpaper.

    My shelves are not adjustable, but the are easily dismountable - simply sliding dovetails in the stiles. Guess that they could have been adjustable if I had done more dovetails then . They are extremely rigid without any back and with varying spans from 900 to 1500mm.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    70
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    9,109

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    I have come to this thread late in the day when most of the argy bargy has been removed from the chest so in many ways the pix below just identify the way I tackled the solution and a couple of modifications I would make on retrospect. I would not have noticed the thread if it were not for some discussion in the Friday Lunch Prattle, which I recommend to anyone at a loose end and fancying an informal chin wag.

    When we bought this old house there was a single bookshelf (the one on the right in the pic below). I made a up a duplicate for the other side of the open doorway:

    P1070017 (Medium).JPG

    The bookcase on the left is 1100mm wide and the right hand bookcase is 1200mm wide

    P1070018 (Medium) (2).JPG

    The bookcases are 2100 high in a room with 3m ceilings. The shelf depth is 330mm and space between the shelves is 290mm, but this is normally designed to the anticipated useage.

    P1070019 (Medium).JPG

    There is a back "brace" whose sole purpose is to provide an easy secure fixing to the wall. The wall itself is painted the same as the bookcase. I think I used cypress pine for the shelving dressed down to about 25mm from the rough sawn. Cypress Pine does not have great strength itself and I used it because I have a store of it. Being aware of the strength deficiencies, the front of each shelf has an edge strip to impart strength. The shelves on the feft have a 40mm x 20mm strip and those on the right a 35mm x 20mm strip. I can't offer an explanation why they are different depths other than the right hand shelves probably already had the lip reinforcement and I thought it was not enough.

    P1070020 (Medium).JPG

    There is some deflection under a fairly significant weight of large magazine stype publications for the right hand unit and visible in the second pic.

    P1070022 (Medium).JPGP1070024 (Medium).JPG

    The left hand unit with a continuous row of fairly heavy, but completely redundant (), forty year old, Encylopoedia Britannica has a very small deflection which is not really visible to the naked eye and would need a straight edge to confirm suspicions.

    P1070025 (Medium).JPG

    If I was doing this again I would use either hardwood for the edge reinforcing or 50mm deep edge strip if it was in Cypress pine. All this of course is modified by the anticipated use: Not all "bookshelves" are used for books. The final analysis may also come down to aesthetics. I have a preference for robust appearance over finesse, but that is me.

    One thing I would emphasise if you go down the edge thickening path is to remember to space the shelves a little further apart if large books are to be accommodated easily.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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