Thread: Timber Door Questions & Build

Just remember that Accoya is quite acidic, so any hardware in direct contact with the timber needs to be stainless steel. I'd probably give your nice hand tools a good clean after use to make sure no shavings/dust are hanging around to rust them.

Thanks Rob and Elan,

I'll give some thought to the ply infill panels vs tongue and groove. I'm semi-committed to the T&G but I know the ply is a good idea for racking strength and sealing out moisture. I just wish I knew for sure how detrimental the T&G would really be and I won't know that until it's too late! I could add some diagonal bracing at the rear side of the door and will consider this also.

I got a couple of hours in the shop after looking after my nephew all day yesterday. Got the tenons cut but still need to plane the cheeks to a good fit.

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Carriage makers plane is great for planing tenons to thickness.

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My way of trying to ensure tenons are parallel, perpendicular and the correct offset using two squares.

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I have found another issue - in order to paint the doors apparently I need to first apply some special Teknos Treatment/Primer to prevent blue mould growth. The problem is the Teknos primer is not available to anyone aside from commercial customers and needs to be applied "in factory" whatever that means. I got the run around today but hopefully I have some leads to get a hold of some.

I am confused why they sell this timber to customers if they know that it needs to be treated with a product that they can't get. .

Elan, have you had any experience with applying a paint finish to Accoya? Did you use the Teknos primer before a regular primer and then top coats? Or just conventional oil or water based primer and topcoats?

Cheers, Dom

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Rob and Elan,

Originally Posted by DomAU

Elan, have you had any experience with applying a paint finish to Accoya? Did you use the Teknos primer before a regular primer and then top coats? Or just conventional oil or water based primer and topcoats?

Sorry, can't help you there.

Well after a lot of ringing around and getting nowhere, I finally called Britton Timbers. They had the Teknos primer I needed and hooked me up! They were very helpful and if I had've purchased my timber there in the first place I wouldn't have had this run-around. I think the issue with the Teknos primer is that it contains a biocide which means it can't be easily/freely retailed to consumers in Australia. I read about a recall of a Zinzer primer product last year which was pulled from shelves because it contained a biocide and the Australian Environmental agency classified it as a controlled agricultural product. This meant it needed to undergo a range of testing and processes in order to be sold/given the appropriate permits etc. I guess it's a similar issue with the Teknos product.

Cheers,

Dom

Some progress. All rail and stile joinery and dado's etc cut.
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Dry fit the doors yesterday sans tongue and groove infill boards.

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I've decided to use through wedged tenons and also draw bore them because i've always had good experience with draw boring really tightening up and providing stiffness to a joint. I'll use epoxy to glue them.

Adjusting the draw bores with a rat tail rasp.

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Also had some 600mm strap hinges delivered yesterday from Blackwood Timber Gates.

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Cheers, Dom

Oh, and here is a little jig I made to make mitring the moulding easier and more accurate. Worked well.

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Cheers, Dom

Tongue and groove boards cut! Using the #49. That was hard work!

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Also applied a coat of the Teknos 2907 primer to all the parts. I only have about two weeks left to build these doors so need to hurry. Not sure of the order of proceedings with regard to paint - should I undercoat the T&G and maybe the dados of the rails and stiles prior to glue-up and then paint everything once glued up? Or just glue up and then paint? Or paint everything fully before glue-up? Although I will still have to cut the stiles flush and cut the door to fit the opening so will need to cut the outer edges of the rails and stiles after glue-up.

Cheers, Dom

Great work Dom !

So good it probably wont sag .

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

Great work Dom !

So good it probably wont sag .

Rob

Thanks Rob. I'll take "probably" haha. It's an improvement over definitely! I may still add diagonals at the rear if they don't instill confidence once they are hung. I'm hoping between the epoxied, through, draw-bored and wedged tenons and the 600mm steel strap hinges with backing plates I will have a chance.

Cheers, Dom

Dom,
your door looks great already and a credit to your workmanship.
Can't work out how you could use farm gate strap hinges on such a fine piece of "furniture".

I have only made one door for a house (just a VJ) and a couple for a shed but plenty of gates and, to my mind at least, the hinge types are "chalk and cheese".

The strap hinge you have is meat to be used with "gudgeons" and the ensuing gap would be mighty drafty in a house.

Gate Hardware Victoria | Hinges | Straps - Blackwood Country Gates (about 2/3 way down the page.)

A substantial "T" hinge may suffice though.

Originally Posted by Bushie

Dom,
your door looks great already and a credit to your workmanship.
Can't work out how you could use farm gate strap hinges on such a fine piece of "furniture".

I have only made one door for a house (just a VJ) and a couple for a shed but plenty of gates and, to my mind at least, the hinge types are "chalk and cheese".

The strap hinge you have is meat to be used with "gudgeons" and the ensuing gap would be mighty drafty in a house.

Gate Hardware Victoria | Hinges | Straps - Blackwood Country Gates (about 2/3 way down the page.)

A substantial "T" hinge may suffice though.

Thanks mate,

The doors are for a shed/garage so hopefully the strap hinges are not too out of place. A small gap is not an issue but hopefully I can get the gaps quite small!

Maybe I made the wrong choice but it's too late to turn back now - it seems like every project for the last couple of years has been completely new to me and I'm typically making stuff up as I go!

Cheers, Dom

Great build, great skills but just a comment re the Accoya process and Teknos 2907 that has me thinking.

Why do they need a timber preservative coating if their Acidic process is so successful? The blurb for the Teknos 2907 says is a preservative treatment for untreated timber.
If Accoya has 25 year lifespan, is that with or without the Teknos coating? Surely the acidic process should protect it from moult and fungi?

i just feel it’s strange to pay a premium for a treated timber then gave to treat it with another product.

Maybe someone in the know could comment.

I'm sure there's plenty of fungi that grow in (and possibly even prefer) acidic conditions.

From my understanding, the Accoya process is meant as a more environmentally friendly alternative to CCA treatment that has full penetration (unlike LOSP, which doesn't go the full thickness of the timber), the trade-off of the reduced toxicity might be that some of the things that CCA protects against are not covered

Hi Lappa,

Yeah I thought the same thing - why market it as such a durable timber if a top coat is required to make it so. But worse than that is that this is not communicated well online nor at the point/before the point of sale. In fact if I didn't dig up the literature I wouldn't know that it was required. Then the icing on the cake is that it took me a week of calling around to find a source for the required primer/treatment and even the distributor of the paint, nor the supplier of the timber could help. Thanks to Britton Timbers who seem to have their sheet together!

I'm going to use Sapelle for the rear doors - much cheaper and i'll be able to just give them an oil finish!

Cheers, Dom