Thread: Timber Door Questions & Build

So last weekend I primed the tongue and groove boards amd inside the dado's on the rails and stiles, then glued-up the doors. I used draw-bore pegs as well as wedges on the through tenons and it all worked well.

Because the epoxy requires 15 degrees to set up I had to move the doors inside the house to dry overnight!

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Started fitting the hinge pintle plates and strap hinges on the first door one evening but ran out of time before it was too dark to continue. Will hopefully finish the test fit/hinge fitment tonight. Then i aim to paint the doors over the weekend. Fingers crossed the doors fit and the weather holds out.

In the meantime the doors are patiently waiting in the garage.

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Cheers, Dom

Are there only two strap hinges per door?

Originally Posted by Lappa

Are there only two strip hinges per door?

No, there will be three.

Started on the painting today. Just finished undercoat. Will lay one top coat today and one tomorrow hopefully.

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Cheers, Dom

Dom

I can see why you hung out ( ) for those doors: Very spectacular. And I do like the way you have supported them for painting.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by DomAU

Thanks mate,

The doors are for a shed/garage so hopefully the strap hinges are not too out of place. A small gap is not an issue but hopefully I can get the gaps quite small!

Maybe I made the wrong choice but it's too late to turn back now - it seems like every project for the last couple of years has been completely new to me and I'm typically making stuff up as I go!

Cheers, Dom

Apologizes Dom, must have missed they were for a shed, wow, any house would do proud to have them.

Originally Posted by Bushie

Apologizes Dom, must have missed they were for a shed, wow, any house would do proud to have them.

Thank you. FYI I ended up with approx 3mm of gap around the doors during the test fit - which i'm happy with.

Cheers, Dom

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Originally Posted by Bushie

Apologizes Dom, must have missed they were for a shed, wow, any house would do proud to have them.

Thank you. FYI I ended up with approx 3mm of gap around the doors during the test fit - which i'm happy with.

Cheers, Dom

I finished the painting today and have brought the doors inside the house to fully cure. I've read the paint will take 7 days to fully cure/harden so figure i'll hang them next weekend and then install the glazing.

I'm not sure if it's better to use the double sided glazing tape that even Bunnies sells to fit the glass or use some sort of silicone? I also need to order and wait for some stainless brads to fit the moulding behind the glass.

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I figure it will be safer to fit the glass once the doors are hung - less chance of breaking them and also because the doors are already heavy to move for two people and the glass would only make that worse!

Cheers, Dom

If you use tape, use PE or PVC tape. Avoid any 'structural' tapes as they will likely be made for construction use where the glass is being stuck to aluminium and may also be open cell so any silicon used in conjunction with the tape will cure.

Also, your doors are lovely and your craftsmanship is just wonderful.

Originally Posted by Alkahestic

If you use tape, use PE or PVC tape. Avoid any 'structural' tapes as they will likely be made for construction use where the glass is being stuck to aluminium and may also be open cell so any silicon used in conjunction with the tape will cure.

Also, your doors are lovely and your craftsmanship is just wonderful.

Thanks mate!

Yeah, I got some PE tape, however it is 1mm thick and because I have a small amount (fractions of a mm) of misalignment between the back faces (where the glass presses against) of a few of the moldings I am worried I won't have even compression/pressure on the thin tape and this may lead to an imperfect seal. I am considering either using the tape and then also applying a thin bead of glass silicone around the front of the glass just to double-up, or just using a thicker bead of silicone smushed between the glass and moulding instead of the tape?

I would use traditional glazing putty, but I don't think I have sufficient time, as I need to have the doors hung and done this weekend and the glazing putty takes a few days to dry and then I also need time to paint over the putty to finish the job.

Not sure if you have much experience with this, but I'd appreciate any advice if you do.

Cheers,

Dom

If not using putty I assume you are using a timber glazing bead?
If it was me I wouldn’t bother with the tape and would use a polyurethane sealant rather than silicone or you could use a mastic and glazing bead.
The silicone can be problematic with painting whereas you can paint over the polyurethane

love the doors by the way, they look fantastic

Originally Posted by Beardy

If not using putty I assume you are using a timber glazing bead?
If it was me I wouldn’t bother with the tape and would use a polyurethane sealant rather than silicone or you could use a mastic and glazing bead.
The silicone can be problematic with painting whereas you can paint over the polyurethane

love the doors by the way, they look fantastic

Thanks mate. Yeah, I have made some timber glazing beads to hold the glass in from behind. The problem is there are so many products out there and it's hard to find one with UV stability, exterior suitable, that adheres to glass, and that isn't black in colour. I see that Selleys do a white butyl mastic, but have read that it's very messy and i think it will end up that way on this fairly fiddely job. I think i'll try the tape (maybe even two layers so 2mm thick), followed by a small 4mm bead of clear silicone around the outside. Worst case i'll need to remove it at some point and figure out a better way. Unless this way is definitely doomed for failure?

Cheers, Dom

Originally Posted by DomAU

I am considering either using the tape and then also applying a thin bead of glass silicone around the front of the glass just to double-up, or just using a thicker bead of silicone smushed between the glass and moulding instead of the tape?

If you do use silicone 'inside' the frame and the tape together then you'll want to switch to a structural tape. These open cell tapes allows air and moisture to pass through so the silicone can cure. Different tape manufacturers will have different silicone brands that they've tested their tape with and will certify that they work together, although for a small job like this one it's probably not going to be an issue. Some time ago I was a building services guy so I know of these things but I didn't actually have to do the installs.

For my own use in resealing little window panes around my front door I used a clear Selley's product. I taped up the windows first to reduce any mess. Pull off the tape after pressing the silicone into the gap with a plastic putty knife, nice clean line. Previously I'd have water come through from the outside, that's stopped so it's done the job. The only downside is that it is not paintable but honestly it's clear so it's not really noticeable.

I would ditch the tape idea and just use Sika Pro or equivalent, it will hold up just fine externally as is commonly used externally on commercial projects

Set the glass into a bead of Sika and fit off your glazing beads and leave Sika to dry without touching it and then trim off with a razor blade
You won’t get it on everything doing it that way

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I would ditch the tape idea and just use Sika Pro or equivalent, it will hold up just fine externally as is commonly used externally on commercial projects

Set the glass into a bead of Sika and fit off your glazing beads and leave Sika to dry without touching it and then trim off with a razor blade
You won’t get it on everything doing it that way