Thread: Timber weight loss program...

Yes, but it would be easier to laminate up the desired shape using thinner timber sections and epoxy. Residential decks are usually 19mm thick with supports every 450mm, so if you did something similar you should be able to make it nice and firm. All depends on how far apart your supports are, and how thick they are.

Thanks for the info... and something like Tasmanian oak 19mm would do?

Also, how is timber expansion/contraction affected by epoxy resin coating and visaversa..?

If the whole thing is carefully encapsulated in epoxy, the rate of moisture exchange should be greatly reduced...however this means that the top surface will need to be protected against scratching and damage.

Personally I think a metal subframe, with individual lengths of oiled decking timber screwed on top would be a durable but knock-about-able surface...but after that, you are entering into 'try it and see' territory!

one of the pre finished laminate floors shoud give you the light weight and durability you're after

I was looking at a "thermally treated "timber today. (Where's a link? ....... here tis. Britton Timbers | Timbers )They also have "cambia ash. The stuff looks really interesting, and would be a great aplication for you I reckon. They had an out door table that had been in the weather for 2 years, and it looked fantastic. No finish on it at all, and lighter than tassie oak and merbu and all that stuff. I'm going to make an out door stting for my new place out of it.

tea lady: "thermally treated" smells to me like "kiln-dried.", a very common process here, given the enormous volume of spruce, pine & fir processing. In any case, the heat does work to "relax" some interior stresses, somewhat akin to heat-annealing of worked glass.

Firstly before you go to all this trouble actually do a weight comparison between the two materials... 6mm ally plate isnt all that light(thats why they use ally extrusions) and Tassy oak is not a real heavy wood

Originally Posted by Robson Valley

tea lady: "thermally treated" smells to me like "kiln-dried.", a very common process here, given the enormous volume of spruce, pine & fir processing. In any case, the heat does work to "relax" some interior stresses, somewhat akin to heat-annealing of worked glass.

I think it is more than just dried. Its taken up very hot, to just before it turns into charcoal. Takes all the stuff out that mold and bugs eat.

That does look interesting TL.

I wonder ho it would stand up in some of our harsher and drier climate ares.

My guess is the heat tretment process is more or less as you say. This sort of treament is used for termite and bug erradication wher spraying poinsons is not totally effective.

No animall life can survive above about 80* C so sealing something off and heating to above this temperature is quite effective. Whole houses can be "wrapped up" and then heated. You don't even need to temove most stuphph from the hose as it is not flamable at such temperatures and there is not enough oxygen allowed into the system for combustion to take place.

Originally Posted by artme

That does look interesting TL.

I wonder ho it would stand up in some of our harsher and drier climate ares.

My guess is the heat tretment process is more or less as you say. This sort of treament is used for termite and bug erradication wher spraying poinsons is not totally effective.

No animall life can survive above about 80* C so sealing something off and heating to above this temperature is quite effective. Whole houses can be "wrapped up" and then heated. You don't even need to temove most stuphph from the hose as it is not flamable at such temperatures and there is not enough oxygen allowed into the system for combustion to take place.

I guess you could do it with a brick veneer house. Close the doors and fire her up? :

Bust up the dining room table and chairs, add some kero, toss in a match and go to the pub. I'll buy a couple of rounds.

Heat treatment is quite primitive, especially if they think that mechanical properties will be preserved, stopping just short of pyrolysis. Wishful thinking. To claim that the wood quality is somehow preserved is to me, stupid, less than ignorant.

If you suspect insects in the wood, think microwave cooking. Bug guts heat to 90C far, far faster than wood moisture. It certainly will fry their eggs and brains.

The continued success of thermophilic microorganisms at +60C continues to amaze me.

Originally Posted by Robson Valley

Bust up the dining room table and chairs, add some kero, toss in a match and go to the pub. I'll buy a couple of rounds.

Heat treatment is quite primitive, especially if they think that mechanical properties will be preserved, stopping just short of pyrolysis. Wishful thinking. To claim that the wood quality is somehow preserved is to me, stupid, less than ignorant.

If you suspect insects in the wood, think microwave cooking. Bug guts heat to 90C far, far faster than wood moisture. It certainly will fry their eggs and brains.

The continued success of thermophilic microorganisms at +60C continues to amaze me.

This is not a fly by night thing. Someone has done research. (Or are you one who doubts anything that a "scientist" has had anything to do with? ) And lots have been in use for ages, in the US and such. Our banter about doing it to a house is just that. Of course it could not be controlled enough!

Bloke I know used teak on his ute and caulked it like the deck of a yacht. It looks a million dollars...as it should, since the timber probably cost him close to that!

mick

wooh... that was just a simple question to begin with...
here's some more details on the current project for a better understanding of what I'm looking at...

I picked up a homemade trailer project recently because I thought it had potential.

I've half striped it down to the framework and am looking at converting the back of it into a ute tray.

I tried to insert an image of the thing from my PC but it asked for a web URL so I sent it as an attachment... hopefully you guys will be able to see it...