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  1. #1
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    Feb 2012
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    Default Traditional kitchen table in Victorian Ash and Jarrah

    No WIP pictures because there is nothing fancy here.

    The design was kept deliberately simple so as to allow the timber "do the talking"

    I have this thing against slab tops... so the top consists of edge glued 19 mm Jarrah boards inserted into a 32 x 90 mm Victorian Ash rebated edge. I think that the result is quite stunning and provides a chunky edge look with just over half of the timber.

    The legs were tapered on the table saw in the usual way, and the leg-stretcher joints are haunched tenons for strength and resistance to splitting from raking the legs along the ground. The table top edge was joined using mitered tenons so as to keep things difficult and interesting (there are easier joints that do the job just as well).

    Hoping that you will all enjoy the pictures and draw inspiration for a future job... Sorry about the landscape orientation - I don't seem to be able to upload in Portrait mode no matter what I try (Any suggestions from the moderator?)

    IMG_3026.jpg IMG_3034.jpgIMG_3041.jpgIMG_3044.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Aug 2007
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    Melbourne
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    The timbers certainly do talk. It's a beautiful table with style elegance and simplicity of design. Job well done. What finish did you use?

    Regards,

    Rob

  4. #3
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    Apr 2016
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    Mooroopna, Victoria, Australia
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    Very nice job. It's good to see somebody doing a traditional table build.

  5. #4
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by LGS View Post
    The timbers certainly do talk. It's a beautiful table with style elegance and simplicity of design. Job well done. What finish did you use?

    Regards,

    Rob
    Hi Rob,

    Kind of you to post.

    The finish is "Burnishing Oil" which I believe is a blend of Tung and Linseed oils, but I did not burnish. I sanded to 400 grit and applied a liberal amount of oil and let it soak in for about 30 min (the recommended maximum is 1 hour). I then wiped the whole table with a clean rag and allowed the oil to dry completely. Several days later I sanded lightly with 1000 grit sand paper and applied a second coat in the same way. There was no particular reason for the several days - it's just that I had to leave the job for a while. When the oil dries/penetrates completely it leaves a matt to slightly satin finish but the grain pattern remains vivid, and water beads on the surface. As you can see on the Ash, there is a slightly yellow to green tint to the finish... which I like.

    As I understand it, when "burnishing" the second coat is worked in with fine wet/dry sand paper. The oily saw dust mixes with the oil and penetrates the bigger pores to leave a satin to slightly gloss finish. I might try that one day.... It sounds like a lot of work!

    Regards

    Jorge

  6. #5
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    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
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    A beautiful design well executed, Jorge.

    I'm interested to learn how you accounted for movement of the Jarrah within the fixed mitred frame. I really like the look of fixed frames but haven't found a proven solution despite looking for years, short of veneering to a stable substrate.

    mick

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glider View Post
    I'm interested to learn how you accounted for movement of the Jarrah within the fixed mitred frame. I really like the look of fixed frames but haven't found a proven solution despite looking for years, short of veneering to a stable substrate.
    Didn't want to spoil the moment, but that concerns me too. I'll be surprised if they haven't popped open in 6 months

  8. #7
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    3rd person moves under the dark cloud.

  9. #8
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    Feb 2012
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    Chifley, ACT Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Didn't want to spoil the moment, but that concerns me too. I'll be surprised if they haven't popped open in 6 months
    I've made similar projects before. On one occasion it was a glass top coffee table with a rebated and biscuit reinforced mitered ash sorround - NO clearance between the glass and the timber frame. The coffee table has given us 5 years of service - no popped miters, warping etc.

    The other job was very similar to the the one described above. This time it was a mortice and tenon rebated frame. One year of service so far without warping or splitting of joints.

    I've also done a lot of research about the differential expansion of different timbers and glass with temperature and humidity, and its miniscule compared to woodworking tolerances.

    So in my **experience** movement of different WELL SEASONED, WELL FINISHED quarter sawn timbers or timber/glass combinations does not lead to problems - And there is no reason to expect it in indoor settings were the fluctuations in temperature and humidity are small.

    As a matter of fact the only time that I had a problem with a table top developing a twist was when I tried to use a 1200x600x50 mm slab of timber that I was told was "well seasoned" - never with laminated boards - not even with pine laminates.

    In addition - I will have to confess to the job not being absolutely perfect !! In the case of the table above this meant that - even though I was aiming for a tight fit - there was a 0.5 mm clearance between the jarrah and the ash all round, and this was concealed by the use of clear silicone worked in with a spatula. The clear silicone works a treat to hide the gap almost completely with the added benefit of creating an "expansion" joint.

    Oh... and I used mitered tenons to join the table top corners...

    In conclusion ... I am willing to bet a six pack (of James Squire beer - not the nasty stuff) that I will be able to post pictures in 6 months time that will surprise elanjacobs.

    Thank s everyone for the posts

    Jorge

  10. #9
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    Very nice

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GarciaJ View Post
    So in my **experience** movement of different WELL SEASONED, WELL FINISHED quarter sawn timbers or timber/glass combinations does not lead to problems - And there is no reason to expect it in indoor settings were the fluctuations in temperature and humidity are small.
    Yeah...but this is neither glass nor quarter sawn. It's not the frame that will move, it's the big, crown cut jarrah boards in the middle that are going to expand and contract and it's going to be a lot more than 1mm over the width.

    As for indoors being a stable environment...unless your house is hermetically sealed and climate controlled all year, no it's not stable.

    Anyways, we shall wait and see. I hope I will be proved wrong, it'd be a pity to see a nice piece of furniture come undone.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Yeah...but this is neither glass nor quarter sawn. It's not the frame that will move, it's the big, crown cut jarrah boards in the middle that are going to expand and contract and it's going to be a lot more than 1mm over the width.

    As for indoors being a stable environment...unless your house is hermetically sealed and climate controlled all year, no it's not stable.

    Anyways, we shall wait and see. I hope I will be proved wrong, it'd be a pity to see a nice piece of furniture come undone.
    Can always have you repair it )

  13. #12
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    I have made and sold a lot of tops made like that . Styled on Antique , mainly French Antique country tops I’ve seen . The old ones do show movement and repairs, a lot which is made worse by time and being moved around the world from northern hemisphere to southern . And periods of neglect where the piece may have been left in damp sheds /barns sort of thing . The many I’ve made go to homes and none have come back yet for work. What I have seen happen on some that sat on the floor for sale was the un air conditioned / heated showroom had a tendency to make KD US Timbers swell. The mitred corners can be forced open which is very hard to fix . We go to a bit of effort to lock it either with a dovetailed cross grain insert added up from the under side two thirds in . Or now I make a whopper domino . 120 wide x 10 thick . The mitred end slides on and through legs lock it together . These two ways stop the mitre from popping open with expansion . If shrinkage is the problem then hopefully one of the joints give rather than a split board . And a feather is added for the repair . A Feather is what that repair addition is called in thec restoration game . A long tapered piece of wood to match the crack . Either way that design can work . And from workshop to a nice normal home where the heating and cooling isn’t overdone to extremes I’d put my money on it not moving enough to be a problem . Leave it in the sun outside for an Aussie summers cooker day and it’ll show up trouble ! The thing is they are a good attractive idea . They sell ! And have been popular for centuries. Being prepared to know what can happen is better than not understanding. My favourite way of doing them is what I call a 150 to 200 mitred top . The side parts are 150 x 30 the ends 200 x 30 and their done on tables from 1800 to 3000 long . I just did one at 3.4 . The other thing that helps is I don’t do new looking stuff . I give it some age in the polishing stage . Any faults are quickly blended in if they happen . This is a big help in that I’m not getting into impossible repairs to put things back to new when it can’t be done .

    Rob

  14. #13
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    This is the latest . Those pegs are locking the joint by going through a floating tenon / shop made a Domino . The rest of the joint is plenty of biscuits . Assembly of the end is tricky . The sides are glued first then the ends fitted . By drawing up the joint the domino can be shaved so it slides together for a dry fitt first . There’s a little bit of a pocket in there and a corner cut from the domino to get it to work . Once on though the top is as strong as it can be for outward pressure . Just glue don’t work from what I’ve seen . Though I had just used PVA types on the ones I saw move . And on one, in what I will now say was a bad idea . It was PVA and biscuits only . 25 tables like this later . That was only done once .


    . A76C90CC-7DCB-44A9-BA37-4F0DBD8C5D86.jpg 9BF46349-A890-409B-93C6-5DCF41BB3EF2.jpg
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  15. #14
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    I made a frame and panel dining table top about 5 years ago out of Maple Silkwood. It has been pretty dry here for a while now and the gap allowance is showing about 6+mm across the panel. During the humid periods over the summers here the gap closes up entirely to a tight fit all round.
    Franklin

  16. #15
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    I suppose a few splits in a rustic or retro styled table would add to the effect. I love the framed panel look, and was hoping that someone had found a solution better than jump in and hope for the best. Been there, done that.

    I've just cut my first batch of 2.5mm veneers ready for use in the home made vacuum press which cost <$100 plus a refrigeration pump.

    mick

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