Thread: Using Plywood for Funiture making - some tips wanted.

Originally Posted by RecyclingKiwi

Funny you mentioned that... we were just discussion that and checking out the net for "Best joint practice" methods for ply drawers. Esp as some have known "blowout issues" like dovetails on lower grade ply and if car is not taken.

Kiwi,

This is how I make most of my drawers. I cut a rebate in the drawer front and fasten the side to the front with dowels. Very strong and works well with ply.

Drawer Detail.jpg

Originally Posted by RecyclingKiwi

Love the Bench design you made John - with the pull out section for extra work platform usage. Great.

The principal use for the pull-out table (which is on castors) is for spraying. I put the unit on it and as I spray push it around with my foot to keep the light behind me ... so the wet lap is always easy to see. It works a treat.

Q: How long have you had these drawers in service - (how old is the chest? has it withstood time?) thanks.

Q: Also what was the timber you chose to use for the dowels? Avail locally or had it turned?

I've got a friend that is now thinking of using ply in all the kitchen rebuild so I sent the pic to her and she is wondering about no nails and life of service with kids! But I think they would be very servicable and strong with the dowels.

Q: Dowels Lined up buy hand or Dowel guide made/used?

Redgs
Chris

Originally Posted by John Samuel

The principal use for the pull-out table (which is on castors) is for spraying. I put the unit on it and as I spray push it around with my foot to keep the light behind me ... so the wet lap is always easy to see. It works a treat.

Yes I like this idea as well - for me I found an old swival chair and used the base on a Door Section 1000mm Sq dose the job however left with storing it is a pain.

Originally Posted by RecyclingKiwi

Funny you mentioned that... we were just discussion that and checking out the net for "Best joint practice" methods for ply drawers. Esp as some have known "blowout issues" like dovetails on lower grade ply and if car is not taken. Definitely "Sharp" tooling is best practice.

Valid point, however care is the key. I am currently in the midst of an assembly bench build and have used a dovetail jig for my draws. The cutter was supplied with the jig and was not of the highest quality and dulled substantially towards the end. The "A Bond" glue in the ply can be taxing on cutting edges. At the same time, there are a total of 230 tails on the draws. Include setting up and it would amount to over 250. The results are satisfactory considering I am not doing a fine furniture build. The cutter still has life left in it, but will be used more selectively in future.

I did experience a small amount of blowout, but I also contributed to that by not going as slowly as I could have.

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John's method is one of many alternatives for ornate pieces which he has executed extremely well and is fitting for the design of the unit.

Also, John's references to the use of dado joints is also a good suggestion. I have used these on this build to help locate certain components, add strength to joints and help restrain and/or remove twists in the sheets.

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I have also used them as a design detail of choice on the back of the draws.

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This raises an important point regarding joinery methodology. Not only are joint varieties versatile in an aesthetic manner, but sometimes important for ease of assembly and the structural integrity of the build. It otherwise and largely comes down to personal preference and ability/resources.

Craig.

Originally Posted by RecyclingKiwi

Q: How long have you had these drawers in service - (how old is the chest? has it withstood time?) thanks.

Q: Also what was the timber you chose to use for the dowels? Avail locally or had it turned?

I've got a friend that is now thinking of using ply in all the kitchen rebuild so I sent the pic to her and she is wondering about no nails and life of service with kids! But I think they would be very servicable and strong with the dowels.

Q: Dowels Lined up buy hand or Dowel guide made/used?

Redgs
Chris

The cabinet is about five years old, but could easily outlast my children. The construction is solid.

The dowel is standard 6 and 10mm fluted dowel (I think Tas Oak) bought in long lengths. I cut them oversize and stand them on end in a dish of stain so capillary action draws the stain up the end grain.

I cut the rebate in the drawer front and then glue and screw the sides to the front and rear (the screws are temporary clamps and go where dowels will be later), and finish the drawer. While the glue is still wet I fit the drawer into the cabinet and hold it down against the frames with wedges (so I know it is close enough to a perfect fit). When the glue is dry I first ensure everything slides and fits well. Then I pull the screws, mark out and drill the dowel holes with a clean cutter drill bit on the drill press and glue the dowels in place. Then the dowels are trimmed with a dowel saw and sanded flush.

So, when the dowels go in, the drawer is already in one piece. Because the sides and front are drilled at the same time, there can be no hole alignment issues. It is a simple method that ensures a great fitting and strong drawer. There is no need for nails or screws (except the screws I use as temporary clamps until the glue goes off). A good dowelled joint is stronger than nails or screws at any rate.

I created this approach after a little trial and error, although I'm sure it has been done before. I wanted to be sure the drawer sat squarely on its runners and had equal clearance either side. Wedging it into place when the glue is wet does that, if you are careful with the size of the components. As you know, most of the strength comes from the glue area (with particular reference to glue area on long grain), but the mechanical strength of the dowels which pass through the entire side and at least 25mm into the front and back members need not be underestimated. The dowels are holding in shear, making them very strong. All the glue must do is hold the dowels in place. For the join in the photo to fail, five dowel joints must fail, and I'd like to think I was careful enough with drilling and gluing for that not to be an issue.

I've got a friend that is now thinking of using ply in all the kitchen rebuild so I sent the pic to her and she is wondering about no nails and life of service with kids! But I think they would be very servicable and strong with the dowels.

I have a place I rent out on the holiday market. The kitchen bench is made up of three benches a local high school was tossing out when they renovated their science labs. They are mostly 17mm ply and would have been made around 1970 I'd say. So they have lasted 40 years in a high school. I reckon they'll last another 40 years as a kitchen bench.
bench.jpg

Thanks John

Love the presentation of the dowel method and intend to try one unit with these. Thanks for the tips too.


Thanks Scottbr for the photo - yeh I reckon - School kids would thrash anything - so it needs to stand up to that by shear numbers!!

Hopefully others are enjoying the Thread on this topic too.

A slight change of focus... We are getting a product called Okoume with a poplar core and a hardwood option on the NZ market at the moment. Anyone used it and would like to share thoughts on it? Comes in 4mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm, 17mm. I've used a sheet of 4mm for outside case replacements on cabinets and the Veneer (Okoume) comes up (Honey colour) with a natural Poly finish. Local supplier Co. says it "should" be ok for basic furniture construction. At $55 17mm Poplar core ($94 for Hardwood core) would be a cheap tester?

Hi All Well sorry say other things have happened in our "lives" with 2 teens and elderly parents to look after as such. Time seems to slip by so fast these days. I'm promising to post any photos of units here as an when they occur though. ;D On the Upside - Tooling took a "Surprise Twist"! Newly added to the "Arsenal" of the "Man Cave" 1 'Renovator' Multi tool - a late father Christmas surprise!! And I scored a 2nd hand - 1HP Ryobi 1/2" Plunge Router ERK2100VK (just needs a new Spindle Lock mechanism) so this will go to replacing the Makita 1/4" unless I keep for small jobs which is possible? Such A quiet besty too - love the 'Soft Start' on her.........Ahhhhhhh Toys eh! Merry Christmas and Happy New year to 'Yah All' RecyclingKiwi - out