Thread: Using Plywood for Funiture making - some tips wanted.

What sort of units are you talking about? Trays, boxs' that sort of thing? I think it'd be fine to use. Screw and glue (PVA) holds just about anything. Just make sure you have a good pilot hole so you don't split whatever you're screwing. A can of lacquer from you're local bunnings would do the job of sealing it.

Tim

Originally Posted by Tim Kingsford

What sort of units are you talking about? Trays, boxs' that sort of thing? Tim

Hi Tim

Sorry - I meant 'Units' with Drawers, Cupboards, Benchs for the likes of a Sliding Table saw and extension table - these kind of units. Thanks for tips, I wondered about the 'splitting' issues.

BTW - how does it finish up with Routering the edges (or hand holds etc) or does it 'break out' or burn real easy?? Any tips there guys?

Thanks.

As far as I am aware, generally when ply increases in cost it also increases in quality. The different grades of plywood available can be seen in the quality of the finished face, and also the quality of the ply "sandwich".

For the projects that you describe the quality of the finished face of the sheet would be less important than for a furniture piece, and as such you may be able to use lower grade plywood.

You will notice a big difference in the quality of the ply "sandwich" between marine ply and construction grade ply, and this will obviously be reflected in the price. On lower grade ply the "sandwich" can contain many voids and knots, which can sometimes be ok, but other times may not work for the project in mind. Again if it was a furniture piece you would expect the edge to be complete with no voids, but again for workshop storage it may not be such a problem. As for routing the edges you will typically be ok, however again if there are small voids on the edge you may not get a showroom finish, but given your use you could perhaps look at filling any voids, or just live with a less than perfect round over every now and again.

In your case I wouldn't be looking for high end ply, but I also wouldn't waste my time with the cheapest. I would be ok with the occasional void given the cheaper price as if it was particularly bad for the intended use you had cut it for, it may be suitable for some smaller component, reducing the waste. Perhaps start machining the larger components first and then work down to the smaller.

It can be a bit of a gamble when trying to select good sheets however a trip to your hardware store that stocks a few different quality levels, will quickly give you an idea of the quality/price balance that you need to strike for your project.

I'm building a large assembly bench with drawers under at the moment entirely out of non-structural CD ply. Researched for local suppliers, had a yak to a few explaining what I was doing and visited my final choice to inspect the board quality. Assess each sheets character/imperfections and then allocate it to the job accordingly. For me the quality of CD is more than good enough.

...Keep in mind that ply even of this grade is up to twice the cost of MDF...

As mentioned by others, pre-drill properly and gluing shouldn't present any issues.


Good luck.

Good Morning RecyclingKiwi

I do not know about prices on your side of the ditch, but here plywood is now at least double or treble the price of other sheet materials.

A year ago I built a kitchen - 9 drawer units and 7 overhead cabinets - and before that, as practice, I built 3 x 6-drawer units for my shed. After finding cost of plywood, I eventually settled on melamine coated chipboard. In the shed I used 16mm sheets, in the kitchen I used 18mm - I learned something and made most of my mistakes in the shed! 18mm sheets are a little stronger, 26% stiffer and, critically, much more foregiving of "unstrait" screws. Also, melamine does not need any finishing.


Fair Winds

Graeme

I used pretty cheap ply to make most of my workshop units, and am happy with all of them. These are made of 17mm ply and framing pine.

IMAG0104.jpgAux Work bench.jpg

Saw cabinet is made of lacquered MDF and framing pine. MDF is a lot cheaper.
IMAG0226.jpg

Love your work John.

There is a particular result that radial veneers (ply) give that nothing else can. I personally have little interest in premium grade birch ply and the like (not just because of it's price). Alleged "lower grades" are what gets my boat float'n because they have endless natural character, and to me that is priceless.

Craig.

Thanks Craig,

Seeing as you like ply did you notice the barbecue tables hanging on the wall behind the table saw? I have three of them, all 12mm ply with a pine frame under them and screw-on legs. They are a godsend when the clan descends every month or so ... 30 bodies at the last barbie.

People often comment on these tables. Attractive, serviceable, and they disappear up onto the wall taking no space at all in my shed. About every year I sand out the big dings and hit them with another coat of lacquer.

Good stuff. Think I'd be leaving those dings in myself. I'm sure each would have a tale or two to tell. Adds character too I reckon.

How's the reasearch going Kiwi? Have you finalised your designs? Can I suggest you get your hands on some off-cuts or similar and have a play around. Can't say I've had any major machining issues to date and all the advice in the world won't compare to you having a crack yourself. As usual, avoid dull or blunt blades and cutters and give your machines every opportunity to do their job at their own pace. Your edges should come up just fine. Stability shouldn't be an issue. Seal everything at the very least if your concerned, and query then glue type. Most CD grades use what I'm pretty sure is regarded as 'A Type' which should be externally rated. Will last a lifetime in an undercover environment.

Kiwi,

Another approach I use a lot is to use a pine frame and hold the ply in place with biscuit, rebate or dado joints. In particular, dado joints are very strong, and all these methods conceal the edge of the ply.

Originally Posted by Sir Stinkalot

As far as I am aware, generally when ply increases in cost it also increases in quality....

**On lower grade ply the "sandwich" can contain many voids and knots, which can sometimes be ok, but other times may not work for the project in mind.

**Perhaps start machining the larger components first and then work down to the smaller.

**It can be a bit of a gamble when trying to select good sheets however a trip to your hardware store that stocks a few different quality levels, will quickly give you an idea of the quality/price balance that you need to strike for your project.

Yes I agree and hear "where you are coming from". For the little I am doing and the cost factor its a bit of a "play off" ...for now.
Thankyou for the "Stinkawisdom".

Originally Posted by CMB

... For me the quality of CD is more than good enough....Keep in mind that ply even of this grade is up to twice the cost of MDF...

As mentioned by others, pre-drill properly and gluing shouldn't present any issues.

Thanks CMB - btw I loved Melbourne when I was over there some years back

[QUOTE=GraemeCook;1647823] ....I do not know about prices on your side of the ditch, but here plywood is now at least double or treble the price of other sheet materials.

.... 18mm sheets are a little stronger, 26% stiffer and, critically, much more foregiving of "unstrait" screws. Also, melamine does not need any finishing. /QUOTE]

LOL - Hey thanks Graeme. Yeh I hear you there. at the moment UT 12mm downgrade is $40, 12mm CD grade $50, 12mm HP Lam $80,

Like the 18mm "forgiveness" factor.

cheeers