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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Melbourne
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    Default WIP - Blackwood Bookcase

    Hey All,

    Been able to get some time in the workshop recently. I love reading through the BIG STUFF threads so thought I would share this project.

    The bookcase will be installed into a 70's built kit home on the Mornington Peninsular that still has that straight lined minimalist style. The case will be L shaped with the long side around 2.2m W x 2m H and the short side 1.1m W x 2m H. Its around 320mm deep.

    You can see from the sketchup model that the case butts up against the door frames at each end which should give it that built in look.. There will be one fixed shelf running the full width across the middle (not as in the sketchup) and 4 movable shelves in each section. The L shaped shelves will be mitered with a notch in the back corner to allow for a vertical upright to support the top and bottom. The plinth is solid timber at 80mm above the floor level. The client/wife/father-in-law are thinking painted back panels to match the wall colour but I'm not completely sold on that yet.

    Screen Shot 2013-08-15 at 11.06.57 PM.png

    The shots below show the first part of the build. It took some time but I have all the vertical and horizontal sections glued up and machined as well as filling any knots with epoxy. You can also see the racks that I built for this project, it would have been impossible to manage so many large sections without them.


    IMG_6461.jpgIMG_6462.jpgIMG_6463.jpg

    As the deign is very simple (not planning on any face frames or embellishments) I decided to add a half blind dove tail to each exposed corner of the plinth to zaz (say it with a lisp) it up a bit. I like to cut the tails on the table saw and then hand fit the pins. Each dove tail is offset upwards to allow for the carpet that runs along the front edge. The rest of the joinery has been done with the domino.

    IMG_6447.jpgIMG_6448.jpgIMG_6449.jpgIMG_6450.jpgIMG_6451.jpgIMG_6456.jpgIMG_6459.jpg
    Attachment 281163Attachment 281164Attachment 281165Attachment 281166Attachment 281167Attachment 281168Attachment 281169

    Next steps are to rough sand the epoxy and then off to another work shop that has a wide belt sander. Sanding the whole thing with the orbital would take way to long and the finish is much better (I don't much care for ROS scratches...even with the Festool). Once that's done then I'll finish dimension everything and continue with the domino for the carcass joinery.

    Still need to figure out how im going to glue this thing up. Maybe time for some new clamps!
    Last edited by Misterwippy; 16th August 2013 at 01:06 AM. Reason: Grammer

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Sydney
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    Default

    This is looking good and I am liking it already. You've got your first follower.

    "DO NOT PAINT ANYTHING" Tell your clients to get stuffed.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  4. #3
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    Default

    Just one thing. The boards are nicely dressed so there is no need to sand it with a belt sander. You might take too much off the wood or leave the boards uneven. What I would do it remove the epoxy using a cabinet scraper and light sand with a ROS or by hand.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Sunbury, Vic
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    84
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    2,719

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    This is looking good and I am liking it already. You've got your first follower.

    "DO NOT PAINT ANYTHING" Tell your clients to get stuffed.
    +1
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    70
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    2,735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    "DO NOT PAINT ANYTHING" Tell your clients to get stuffed.
    I'd only agree there if the back panels were planned to be t&g blackwood lining boards. However if it's paint grade plywood or mdf then.....

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Melbourne
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    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Just one thing. The boards are nicely dressed so there is no need to sand it with a belt sander. You might take too much off the wood or leave the boards uneven. What I would do it remove the epoxy using a cabinet scraper and light sand with a ROS or by hand.
    Hey Wongo, ill be using a wide belt sander which can handle the full width of the boards. Leaves a very nice finish. The boards are currently milled to just under 19mm. This will give me up to 4-5 passes on each side to take care if some tearout from the thicknesser.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzzie View Post
    I'd only agree there if the back panels were planned to be t&g blackwood lining boards. However if it's paint grade plywood or mdf then.....
    Ship lapped panels would be nice buts its kind of a waste of timber in this size I think.

    An 8mm BC grade Blackwood veneered sheet of ply is upwards of $150. MDF + paint would much less.

  9. #8
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    Default

    Do you mean belt sander or drum sander?
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Default

    You could call it a drum sander I guess. I call it a wide belt sander as the paper is in a large belt rather than wrapped around a drum.

    Something that looks like this bad boy!

    Used Sandingmaster Sandingmaster KCSB2 900 Wide Belt Sander Wide belt/ Drum Sanders in Mansfield Park, SA Price: $8,500 <9810>

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