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  1. #16
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    Dec 2008
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    Adelaide, SA
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    962

    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    I've moved it and it didn't fall apart! I started trimming the dovetails with my LA block plane, and found it far to time consuming. So I went for my newly acquired Lie Nielsen LA Jack Plane (bought from a forumite). Once I worked out how to plane the stupid thing things moved a bit faster. I ended up facing the plane 90 deg to the grain and planing on a 45 deg angle. A bit confusing, but it worked out well.

    I've found the LA great, if you don't have one, it'd be a great 'excuse' to buy another plane

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21368441551.155253.jpg

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
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    87
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    1,327

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    I ended up facing the plane 90 deg to the grain and planing on a 45 deg angle. A bit confusing, but it worked out well.



    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21368441551.155253.jpg
    I'm slowly getting a mental picture of that.Takes a while these days
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    962

    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter36 View Post
    I'm slowly getting a mental picture of that.Takes a while these days
    I stood behind the plane in the direction that it is lying in the pic, and pushed it in a 45 deg angle to the right

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    87
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    1,327

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    I stood behind the plane in the direction that it is lying in the pic, and pushed it in a 45 deg angle to the right
    Got the picture now .
    Some nice end grain shavings .
    Cheers John
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
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    19,922

    Thumbs up

    Like the carcase, LUV the clamps!!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    962

    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    Quote Originally Posted by artme View Post
    Like the carcase, LUV the clamps!!
    Thanks. Superb clamping force.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    962

    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    I've got a question. I've used old bed slats for the base, which Ive joined by lap joints. I know that tongue & groove would have been better, but I don't have either the plane or router bit. So the bottom isn't 100% flat.

    Should I leave it (as its really just the base of a tool chest)?
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21368598420.520165.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21368598463.306242.jpg

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    962

    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    Ok...make that 2 questions!

    I've been nice enough to volunteer to make my wife a new sewing station, and of course she'd like it made out of my tassy oak!

    So, if I'm going to have enough to make her sewing station, I may not have enough to do the lid and skirt of my toolchest.

    Just a thought, but how would a jarrah skirt and dust seal look do you think? Also with the panel frame lid, maybe jarrah around the outside and an Oak panel on the inside?



    I know it's personal preference, but its always nice to get other's opinions

  10. #24
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    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    I've started working on the skirt. I've decided to use jarrah. Here is my 1st attempt at the mitre dovetail joints (handcut). (They still need to be trimmed with the plane)



    The pins and sockets are cut on the opposite sides than they were on the frame. So, the frame side that had the pin has the docket on the skirt. The reason why is that the mitred section will be facing upwards and will be either chamfered or cut with a roman og bit (haven't decided yet), and this way you aren't cutting thru the middle of your dovetail.

    Why? According to Roy Underhill it makes the box more "bullet proof"!

  11. #25
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    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    1 skirt attached...check!

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369705564.136975.jpg

    Here's a close up of my first attempt at a mitred dovetail (yes, I know that it has a small ding taken out of it, but its small and its a long way down to the floor, so you should see it once its finished!)

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369705626.907038.jpg

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    4,774

    Default

    Nice work
    I really like the jarrah/oak contrast.
    And the mitred DTs...great job. It's well worth going that little bit extra.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    962

    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    Today has been spent finishing the top skirt. It's basically the same as the bottom except the chamfer is facing down. This leaves me with a flat 90 degree face at the top for the lid to deal against.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21370408650.968503.jpg

    Next is the lid and hinges. Piano hinge or butt hinges?

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brisbane - Southside
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    273

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    Very nice. Do you hppen to know how much it weighs (thus far) ?

  15. #29
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    Dec 2008
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    Adelaide, SA
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    Default WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest

    Quote Originally Posted by Ozziespur View Post
    Very nice. Do you hppen to know how much it weighs (thus far) ?
    No, but I was thinking of weighing it.

    I know that Roy Underhill and Chris Schwartz say that it should be light in case you get sacked u can move it, but I don't think that my wife is going to sack me! At least not before I make her a new sewing cupboard/station! I'm having increasingly more trouble lifting it onto the workbench tho!

  16. #30
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    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
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    71
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    1,301

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    Next is the lid and hinges. Piano hinge or butt hinges?
    I have just caught up with this project. I would probably go for a brass piano hinge, and a brass stay of some sort.
    A framed lid might be better, less chance of warping, or at least cleats on the underside.
    I think you should have handles at each end, maybe Jarrah, plus a mate to shift it around the workshop!. It must weigh a fair bit now, it is going to be darn heavy with a lid, a tray or three and half a dozen tools or so.

    I'm impressed with the hand cut dovetails, something that I am not about to tackle in the near future (Too many opportunities for error in my case).

    Good luck with the project, it will last a lifetime or two.

    Alan...

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