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Thread: WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
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13th May 2013, 09:39 PM #16Junior Senior Member
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WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
I've moved it and it didn't fall apart! I started trimming the dovetails with my LA block plane, and found it far to time consuming. So I went for my newly acquired Lie Nielsen LA Jack Plane (bought from a forumite). Once I worked out how to plane the stupid thing things moved a bit faster. I ended up facing the plane 90 deg to the grain and planing on a 45 deg angle. A bit confusing, but it worked out well.
I've found the LA great, if you don't have one, it'd be a great 'excuse' to buy another plane
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13th May 2013 09:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th May 2013, 10:07 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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13th May 2013, 10:57 PM #18Junior Senior Member
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14th May 2013, 10:32 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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15th May 2013, 04:08 PM #20Skwair2rownd
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Like the carcase, LUV the clamps!!
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15th May 2013, 04:37 PM #21Junior Senior Member
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15th May 2013, 05:14 PM #22Junior Senior Member
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WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
I've got a question. I've used old bed slats for the base, which Ive joined by lap joints. I know that tongue & groove would have been better, but I don't have either the plane or router bit. So the bottom isn't 100% flat.
Should I leave it (as its really just the base of a tool chest)?
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15th May 2013, 10:44 PM #23Junior Senior Member
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WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
Ok...make that 2 questions!
I've been nice enough to volunteer to make my wife a new sewing station, and of course she'd like it made out of my tassy oak!
So, if I'm going to have enough to make her sewing station, I may not have enough to do the lid and skirt of my toolchest.
Just a thought, but how would a jarrah skirt and dust seal look do you think? Also with the panel frame lid, maybe jarrah around the outside and an Oak panel on the inside?
I know it's personal preference, but its always nice to get other's opinions
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23rd May 2013, 12:37 PM #24Junior Senior Member
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WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
I've started working on the skirt. I've decided to use jarrah. Here is my 1st attempt at the mitre dovetail joints (handcut). (They still need to be trimmed with the plane)
The pins and sockets are cut on the opposite sides than they were on the frame. So, the frame side that had the pin has the docket on the skirt. The reason why is that the mitred section will be facing upwards and will be either chamfered or cut with a roman og bit (haven't decided yet), and this way you aren't cutting thru the middle of your dovetail.
Why? According to Roy Underhill it makes the box more "bullet proof"!
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28th May 2013, 12:48 PM #25Junior Senior Member
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WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
1 skirt attached...check!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369705564.136975.jpg
Here's a close up of my first attempt at a mitred dovetail (yes, I know that it has a small ding taken out of it, but its small and its a long way down to the floor, so you should see it once its finished!)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369705626.907038.jpg
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28th May 2013, 01:06 PM #26
Nice work
I really like the jarrah/oak contrast.
And the mitred DTs...great job. It's well worth going that little bit extra.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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5th June 2013, 04:05 PM #27Junior Senior Member
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WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
Today has been spent finishing the top skirt. It's basically the same as the bottom except the chamfer is facing down. This leaves me with a flat 90 degree face at the top for the lid to deal against.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21370408650.968503.jpg
Next is the lid and hinges. Piano hinge or butt hinges?
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5th June 2013, 04:26 PM #28Senior Member
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Very nice. Do you hppen to know how much it weighs (thus far) ?
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6th June 2013, 01:10 AM #29Junior Senior Member
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WIP John's Tassy Oak Tool Chest
No, but I was thinking of weighing it.
I know that Roy Underhill and Chris Schwartz say that it should be light in case you get sacked u can move it, but I don't think that my wife is going to sack me! At least not before I make her a new sewing cupboard/station! I'm having increasingly more trouble lifting it onto the workbench tho!
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6th June 2013, 08:30 AM #30GOLD MEMBER
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I have just caught up with this project. I would probably go for a brass piano hinge, and a brass stay of some sort.
A framed lid might be better, less chance of warping, or at least cleats on the underside.
I think you should have handles at each end, maybe Jarrah, plus a mate to shift it around the workshop!. It must weigh a fair bit now, it is going to be darn heavy with a lid, a tray or three and half a dozen tools or so.
I'm impressed with the hand cut dovetails, something that I am not about to tackle in the near future (Too many opportunities for error in my case).
Good luck with the project, it will last a lifetime or two.
Alan...
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