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Thread: Wood movement/stability question
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19th July 2020, 02:05 PM #16
Ive never produced chopping boards or had a need yet to oil wood Im eating or cutting food on . Any oiling I do is either linseed mixed with mineral turps . Oil based sanding sealer thinned with mineral turps . Osmo thinned with all purpose thinners . I two pack on rare occasions with Wattyl 7008 . And I use a lot of shellac.
Id be trying Paraffin like you use if I did chopping boards for use . If I did a butchers block top for a table Id use thinned sanding sealer and finish with Osmo and a wax. Something that dries when it soaks in . . I wouldnt want anything that reacts with the glue used to hold the 5mm stuff of course . I know some paint stripper dissolves two pack . I used to soak my two pack mixing knifes in a tin of it to clean them . Don't think anything dissolves poly but it would be worth testing first on some dry stuff just to make sure.
The other thing to think of is Heat . A piping hot pot out of the oven would make two pack let go through a 5mm timber barrier in two minutes easy. Possibly not with poly ? Worth testing again . Maybe go 10 mm on the top thickness .
Rob
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19th July 2020 02:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th July 2020, 02:15 PM #17
I know a guy who produced a lot of Parq top tables and he used to glue around 15mm (I think ?) parq down to MDF by rubbing it on . The 15 mm wouldn't move with the moisture from the water based glue . But the ones he sent to Qld did move and had to come back to Vic for repair sometimes. The Parq would shift and split off the MDF being the pure S**T that MDF is . Pine veneered Chipboard would have been a better choice to glue it to . And Plywood better again .
Rob
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20th July 2020, 10:34 AM #18... and this too shall pass away ...
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Rob,
I take it you are referring to the good quality USA made birch plywood when talking about veneer substrate.
I made a table saw sled out of local ply and it warped badly. Replaced it with an MDF sled which has now been in use for about ten years.
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20th July 2020, 11:19 AM #19Taking a break
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20th July 2020, 01:16 PM #20
I lost faith in MDF for Parq tops the day I had to remove about 20 % of what I’d laid because if a mistake in putting them down with the grain direction . You can make one mistake and it’ll throw the pattern out further along if you don’t notice it . They were on good and the glue was dry so I started chiseling them off . They just flipped off Way too easy with the MDF de laminating and staying with the parquetry . If I want to go cheap I use chip board with radiata veneer both sides .
The ply I use is not the Birch ply . It’s lovely stuff but pricey . I like that if it’s important enough and visible.
Tait timber sell an 18mm Asian hardwood multilam ply . Great stuff . Has a bit of weight to it and almost rings when you knock it . It stays good and flat .
I’ve seen less laminations in same 18 thickness with same hardwood facings but the laminations inside are bigger and softer . I bought about ten of those because they were cheap at $30 ea . Moved like crazy ! It doesn’t change its 2.4 x1.2 size at all . It Just doesn’t stay flat . Buckles and moves . Has to be nailed and glued down . The good stuff that has the heavier hardwood laminations is about $130 a sheet last time I got it .
My last job which was smaller I used the structural Radiata veneered ply from a local hardware store . . The coffee table it went into was well braced . You could dance on it with no problems .
Rob
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