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  1. #1
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    Default Advice on sleeve needed

    Hello I am installing a reco motor in the old XF Falcon... I just noticed the front pulley has a scored journal where the timing case seal runs on it . Thankfully the pulley fits in the Bernerd 4 jaw chuck . So I will turn down the scored area and press on a sleeve . It's 1 and 3/4" diameter. Can I use bright mild steel for the sleeve as its all I have here ? It's a rubber/neoprene seal . Mike

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  3. #2
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    Default

    If its all you have it will have to do.
    It would need to be highly polished with no machine marks.
    You cant by some chance get a Speedie Sleeve to fit.

  4. #3
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    Default

    I'd definately go with a speedie sleeve, thats what they're made for and some epoxy under to fill the groove if its too bad.
    24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a carton ...Its no coincidence

  5. #4
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    Default Ok

    yes, thanks...... I thought of a speedi sleeve too... I got a quote for one, $48 from the local place ..seems steep to me. As I have a lathe I thought I would hava go at a sleeve myself. I know they used to do diff drive flange yoke oil seals with sleeves made on a lathe. Mike

  6. #5
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    Default

    How much meat have you got to play with.

  7. #6
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    Default pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    How much meat have you got to play with.
    Its .25 thick at the walls. In other words the crankshaft end is 1.25 + .5 = 1.75 OD I can buy a new pulley for about $65 ... MIKE

  8. #7
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    I think you might be better shrinking it on,I would probably look for about .060" wall thickness when finished,would try for around .001" to .0015" interference.

  9. #8
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    Default yes

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    I think you might be better shrinking it on,I would probably look for about .060" wall thickness when finished,would try for around .001" to .0015" interference.
    I was thinking along the same lines ..yes about 1/16" thickness . I could loctite it on I think .... 1 thou interference would be OK... it will test my machining skills LOL Mike

  10. #9
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    Default

    Can you shrink it on.
    Make it 2 to 3 times the wall thickness of what you need and machine to suit.

  11. #10
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    Default yes

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Can you shrink it on.
    Make it 2 to 3 times the wall thickness of what you need and machine to suit.
    yes thats what I was going to do. I just did a crude hardness test with a file and the original journal metal isn't really hard. It's a casting but it seems to be only medium grade cast iron . its a very smooth finish on it Mike

  12. #11
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    Default cast iron

    I have the crank pulley in the lathe. It's definately cast iron as its chipping rather than a curly swarthe. Pulley construction: there is a outer ring with the V belt grooves that mounts on a thick rubber cushion. I guess for dampening effect. The inner section is the cast iron spindle itself . Mike

  13. #12
    Metmachmad is offline Turning useful pieces of steel into scrap metal.
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    Default

    I have reco'ed many of these types of crankshaft pulleys/ balancers overs the years.
    Mild steel will do the job nicely
    1/16" finished wall thickness will suffice
    Press or heat shrink fit will do with .0015 - .002" interference fit
    Leave approx .010" oversize on OD and length, fit the sleeve then finish machine ,i.e - OD, face, add chamfer, and polish finish to size.
    Turning useful pieces of steel into scrap metal.

  14. #13
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    Default boring

    This is the boring setup on the Sheraton. The boring bar is made out of a rectangular bit of HSS ..ground down . its works very well as its very rigid and produces a good finish.

    the boring tool was with the lathe when i bought it

  15. #14
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    Default pics

    more pics

    Itried conventional boring bars..but this set up is by far the best I have used

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