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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    5,650

    Default Any chance of a favour?

    I imagine there are a few owners out there of taper turning attachments.

    I don't have the cast iron cross slide locking handle and I was wondering if anyone might be prepared to provide me with a rough drawing of the missing piece.

    I'm not holding my breath for a response, but if anyone was prepared to help, I would be greatly appreciative.

    Bob.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
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    Default A question

    Sorry Bob,

    I don't have a taper turning attachment - can't have everything

    but I have a curiosity question.

    What distance is required behind the saddle to allow one to work?

    I made a stand/drip tray for my lathe and took the simple expedient of bending the tray vertically to provide a rear splash guard. I now realise it is a little too close as when I have taken off the cross slide I need to actually dismantle the apron/saddle -- or more recently, after making a "hole" spanner, remove the cross slide screw -- as there is not quite enough room behind the saddle to slide off the cross slide.

    Always something to learn!
    cheers
    David

    ------------------------------------------------
    A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they’ll never sit in. (Greek proverb)

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Posts
    5,650

    Default What distance is required behind the saddle to allow one to work?

    I'll have a look tonight and let you know.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Hi Bob,
    I'll measure it up and do some sort of drawing for you. I'll see if I can get it done tonight.
    Peter

  6. #5
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    Default

    Thank you Peter.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Canberra
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    Default

    Ok Bob. Have a look at the PDF document and see if there's enough info in there for what you need.
    I've also included a drawing of a spacer washer that I had to turn up because mine was missing. It goes between the locking handle and the cross slide to space things out because without it the locking handle will not screw all the way down onto the cross slide. I don't know what the original one looked like but this is what I came up with.
    Peter

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Posts
    5,650

    Default What distance is required behind the saddle to allow one to work?

    David,

    I assembled the main components on the lathe. The cross slide extends roughly 230mm past the vertical mounting face at the rear of the saddle. This is the maximum, governed by the slot in the slide.

    I hope this is what you are after.

    Bob

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Default Ok Bob. Have a look at the PDF

    That is exactly what I was after Peter. Thank you very much.

    My intention was to turn the handle out of some 1020 and heat it and bend it with a length of pipe. The bend on the cast handle is very close to the threaded boss and I might come unstuck with the heat and bend idea, trying to replicate it.

    Cut, weld and file could be a better way but I only have a stick welder and I'm very rusty.

    I'll figure something out.

    Thanks again
    Bob.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    40

    Default I have one

    Bob,
    Pop over for a cuppa and you can inspect my Taper Turning Attachment!
    Graeme

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    5,650

    Default

    Graeme,

    Let me know when and I'll bring over that Starrett machinist level.

    Bob.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
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    181

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    My intention was to turn the handle out of some 1020 and heat it and bend it with a length of pipe. The bend on the cast handle is very close to the threaded boss and I might come unstuck with the heat and bend idea, trying to replicate it.

    Cut, weld and file could be a better way but I only have a stick welder and I'm very rusty.
    Weld and shape is the only way I can see you getting that bend. You don't have a hope in hell of heating and bending it to the shape of the original. One good thing about welding it is you can always come back for a second go. I'd be inclined to weld, angle grind then Dremel and file to finish it off.
    Peter

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    David,

    I assembled the main components on the lathe. The cross slide extends roughly 230mm past the vertical mounting face at the rear of the saddle. This is the maximum, governed by the slot in the slide.

    I hope this is what you are after.

    Bob

    Thank you Bob -- exactly what I was wanting to know
    (Been away for a few days so apologies for the delay in my response)

    David
    cheers
    David

    ------------------------------------------------
    A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they’ll never sit in. (Greek proverb)

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