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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
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    64
    Posts
    3,566

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    When ever I use an A model I adjust the clutch so that it takes the maximum depth of cut I want with out slipping,I take note of the position of the wheel and use this spot for all additional longitudinal feeding,I have never ran the carriage into a stop under feed but I will hold the carriage hand wheel to check if the clutch will slip.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    48

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    Hi Swarfmaker,

    When you say that you have castings for the Mic Saddle Stop - do you mean the castings for this stop?


    Quote Originally Posted by Swarfmaker1 View Post
    Guys, I may have one or two sets of Mic. Saddle Stop castings.
    Regards,

    Rodd.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Springwood
    Posts
    148

    Default

    Rodd, Yes that's the one. I've got one set, main body and clamp plate. Someone has posted a sketch of the components in this thread.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Pete,
    do you mean the one in the first link in post #3?
    I missed your question and just noticed it now, sorry about that. Yes that's the one I have.

    Pete

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,645

    Default

    Thanks Pete. I've ordered one without the dial indicator for $40. Will fit my own 50mm travel indicator later.
    Chris

  7. #36
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Hi Chris,
    I don't get over here often, but just saw this and that is great work Well done. I will be using some of you ideas in mine when I get around to it.

    Dave



    Quote Originally Posted by cba_melbourne View Post
    I used the head of a 25mm Mitutoyo micrometer (simply because I had two such heads left over from an earlier project). Instead of the ratchet I attached a knurled shaft. That makes it easy to spin the barrel between two fingers to quickly set a distance.

    This Saddle stop doubles as a dial indicator holder. I had this DI left over from another project 30 years ago.... not much used since because it is so big. It has 50mm travel.

    Initially I wanted to have both micrometer and DI permanently attached, but the quick change gearbox does not leave the necessary space to do this. So it is either or, both were modofied to fit the same10mm hole.

    The main body is mild steel. I polished it and blackened with Birch Casey gun blue. The clamp is a piece of brass. The little grub screw is to adjust the tongue to be parallel with the underside of the Vee way - saves having to mill the part too accurately. Maybe one day I replace the allen screws with knows or handles.... for now I am happy to use allen keys.

    Oh yes, why make it if it can be bought new? Firstly I thought the original South Bend saddle stop sold on eBay was a bit pricy for what it is. Second, I had made a similar saddle stop loong ago for my smaller lathe and found it very useful.

    I hope someone gets some inspiration to make his own looking at the pics. No I have no plans, not even a sketch. I made a little cardboard template which I kept cutting until it fit both the lathe and a steel chunk from the scrap box. I then milled the V for the way, checked the fit on the lathe, milled a bit more, check the fit.... until all came together. Plan was only in my brain and changed all the time.....





















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