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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Corndale
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    266

    Default Er40 Collet Chuck

    Finally finished the ER40 collet chuck for my 260.I bought it as an already threaded blank from "Pipeclay" and this made it a job I could then finish on my lathe for accuracy.
    The chuck uses the existing nut and collets from my Mill.
    There is the slightest misalignment when reversing a bar in the chuck but I think the only way I will improve it is if I get some sort of small grinder for the tool post.
    It is certainly nice for small components (I have collets to 1" ) to not have the normal chuck spinning beside you.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
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    250

    Thumbs up

    very neat.



    I will add that idea to the considerable list of useful things to build

    Thanks for sharing
    cheers
    David

    ------------------------------------------------
    A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they’ll never sit in. (Greek proverb)

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,654

    Default

    How much was the blank and which part do you have to machine yourself?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Salem Ohio
    Age
    65
    Posts
    214

    Cool

    Nice...Bob

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
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    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    You might want to hop onto eBay and buy yourself an extra nut or two. Sooner or later you will have a set up in one you don't want to disturb while needing the nut for the other machine.

    Nice work though. A collet chuck I think is one of the more under rated improvements you can make to a lathe.

    Michael

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Corndale
    Posts
    266

    Default

    Hi Jack620,
    The blank was supplied with the headstock thread already cut and the outside partly turned for shape.I also asked for Pipeclay to turn the collet thread and start the taper.I just had to finish turn the OD and then enlarge the taper to get a nice fit for the collets.This was easy enough but very exacting.Good thing you can have a few goes while you work your way back to the depth required.I will leave the costing of the blank to pipeclay and yourself but it was so reasonable I had to add on a bit more to his price to feel right about it.
    Hi MichaelG,
    I bought 2 nuts via CTC tooling for $23 and used the old one off my mill for the lathe.It's thread was a better fit.Something to think about when you are doing this sort of thing.I could have just trimmed the OD of the thread but the 2 nuts fitted the mill spindle so i didn't bother.

  8. #7
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Hi,
    Both you and Pipeclay have done a good job on that.

    With your run out, something to think about is that with ER collets the nut also helps to align the collet with the taper inside it. So if the threads where done on Pipeclays lathe and they are a neat fit on the nut, it could be pulling it over to one side slightly, giving you a small amount of run out.

    If you could loosen the fit of the nut slightly on the chuck, it may help to let the nut float a little and let the collet seat into the chuck taper fully.

    This is just a suggestion, but it may help if you want to chase up the run out before grinding it, as the collet chuck taper maybe spot on already but the nut maybe pulling it over because it was done on another lathe.

    Dave

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Corndale
    Posts
    266

    Default

    Good thought Dave I will give it a go before more drastic work.

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