Thread: More Green Paint

Hi Bob,

Looks good. It's a hard colour to match.

I've been thinking about painting my newest addition, the Lotze power hacksaw, I recently purchased. You wouldn't know what colour that is would you?

Ben.

Originally Posted by bwal74

Hi Bob,

Looks good. It's a hard colour to match.

I've been thinking about painting my newest addition, the Lotze power hacksaw, I recently purchased. You wouldn't know what colour that is would you?

Ben.

I have an RAL fan deck, a Taubmans' colour chart and a Lotze. Ill see what's close Ben.

50 Lookalike 19-3-11 004 (Large).jpg

Ben,

I been up to the bloody hot shed and taken a few more photos. Bear in mind the age of the saw and the state of the paint. Here are a couple of colours I think are close. The RAL blue is a touch bright and clean looking but it could well be closer to the colour when it was first applied. The logo is a bit trickier. Blue Steel looks good but it could do with a dash of green.

I'm might be being anal about these colours. If Bruce had either machine in his shed he would paint the bastard beige.

BT

Bob, you really need to visit a specialist paint store that specialises in automotive and industrial enamels.
Take a prt of the machine with you and they should get a pretty close computer match, they can also measure the gloss level on the computer.

Their computer systems are based on solvent based paints and you will find they get a lot closer match than the likes of Bunnings. You will also get a better quality industrial enael and on top of that they should be able to supply a lower gloss enamel by adding a flatting base.

Bob,

unfortunately they change the color matching system more than once during the course of a human generation. It is just not possible to perfectly and faithfully reproduce a tint that was made with an earlier color system. You may have to be happy with a match as close as possible.

Edit: just look at wiki for RAL (German Imperial color system) or ANSI (american color system). The last time that Bunnings etc have changed their color system is only about 8 years ago, and they were not anymore capable to reproduce my old house paint colors mixed just a couple years earlier. Go figure.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Bob, you really need to visit a specialist paint store that specialises in automotive and industrial enamels.
Take a prt of the machine with you and they should get a pretty close computer match, they can also measure the gloss level on the computer.

Their computer systems are based on solvent based paints and you will find they get a lot closer match than the likes of Bunnings. You will also get a better quality industrial enael and on top of that they should be able to supply a lower gloss enamel by adding a flatting base.

Hello Fred,

My initial foray into machine painting led me to Spies Hecker where I purchased some fairly expensive hardenable spraying enamel. Three blokes had a go at colour matching, my change gear cover attests to their efforts . While the colour wasn't identical it didn't overly matter because I was repainting my half heartedly porch painted No. O mill. Half hearted because whoever the artist was, he couldn't muster the energy to pull the mill away from the wall and paint the rear. Not that I'm much better, I painted the knee and reassembled to mill because I was itching to use it. The mill is still piebald blue and green.

I then had more paint mixed by another automotive paint specialist. I bought home jars of tint to attempt to finish the job of eye matching. That's the 9 year old paint I still reckon is a bit bright.

Neither of these places had computer matching. I spoke with a Wattyl Industrial Coatings rep a few months ago at work. I mentioned the flatting base. He hummed and harred. Wasn't his area of expertise.

I will be honest. I would prefer something I can apply with a gun. Bunnings was a bit of an act of desperation. Had the White Knight been available in satin I may have been happy to end my search.

Originally Posted by cba_melbourne

Bob,

unfortunately they change the color matching system more than once during the course of a human generation. It is just not possible to perfectly and faithfully reproduce a tint that was made with an earlier color system. You may have to be happy with a match as close as possible.

Edit: just look at wiki for RAL (German Imperial color system) or ANSI (american color system). The last time that Bunnings etc have changed their color system is only about 8 years ago, and they were not anymore capable to reproduce my old house paint colors mixed just a couple years earlier. Go figure.

Hello Chis,

It is a shame that Hercus didn't adopt the RAL system. We could simply go and fetch a can of Reseda Green RAL 6011, but probably not from Bunnings. If you were starting from scratch and liked green , Reseda would make sense. Ray and Josh Gardiner are repainting their Maus Grey 7005 Deckel, refreshing Reseda. Pefe F is also wading in Reseda.

I did not realise that formulaic tinting had changed. Surely eye tinting weird colours must still be achievable. But then, Hercus camouflage green has presented a bit of a challenge for the eye tinters I've dealt with.

Bob.

Hi Bob,

Thanks for that. Those colours look close. I forgot how hot it was in Perth - you should be watching the cricket in airconditioned comfort.

A quick side question. Do you use coolant when you cut with the power hacksaw? Mine doesn't have a coolant system on it, nor did the one at work so I just poured coolant on it when I walked by. Also, does your hydraulic piston work?

Cheers Ben.

Just came in out of the heat, been chainsawing & clearing old (dead) trees on my place for the last 3 days.
It never seems to end. However, the exercise is great !
Good to see you blokes fiddling with colours, when you get a green thats close, then I might be interested in coating the beige O mill & its accessories. I hand scraped the X & y slides & its all tight & terrific now, so the paint would help in its completion.
Ben, I like those Lotze hacksaws, the outrigger bearing design is ridgid & sensible.
My machine is a solid cast iron unit of Taiwanese origin (not a Lotze) however it does a good job.
By the way Ben, did you get your locating dowel-screws made for your Hercus O Mill ?
regards
Bruce

Hi Bruce,

I started making up one locating pin, from memory my sizes where slightly different to yours, and was on the last operation before cutting the thread and decided to take another puffteenns (I think that's the description) off and had a small crash. Instead of turning off the long feed I changed from long feed to traverse feed (and I still don't know how) and ruined the piece.
Since then I've barely been in the garage for any machining work. I've got a list of projects to do (the pins, a handle for my Waldon Vice, some more cannons, some small tools for the workshop etc) over the holiday period but due to unforeseen circumstances may have to put most on the backburner.
The Lotze hacksaw was a lucky purchase, the bloke originally had it for BIN $150.00 and no one bought it then he re-listed it at BIN $75 and I couldn't pass it up. It works well but I think the hydraulic piston doesn't work. I will clean it up as best I can and maybe give it a paint job when I can.

Ben.

Ben
I was going to make you a couple of the locating screws as a Christmas Present.
However now that you mentioned the dimensional change from the sketch I sent you, glad I hesitated.
Perhaps you could photo a sketch of the size required?
regards
Bruce