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Thread: Hercus 260 advice please
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18th February 2013, 12:28 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Not sure if they were remedies or improvements,probably better to say changes.
The detent handle for the reverse tumbler on latter models.
The vertical counter shaft,drive/adjustment.
The re positioning of the locking screws for indexing the compound to the front.
Roller bearing headstock on some models.
The camlock locking of the tailstock.
The Sheraton is probably a closer copy of the Southbend than the Hercus in most respects except for there PA DP of some gears.
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18th February 2013 12:28 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th February 2013, 12:45 PM #17Senior Member
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G'day Greg,
For what it's worth, I actually made the change from an ML7 to a 260 a couple of years ago.
The main advantages I find other than the obvious thins like larger swing and spindle bore are the following:
Tail stock is easier to use on the 260 and includes auto eject.
Separate carriage feed for turning means you can get finer feeds and don't need to rely only on the half nuts.
Back gear is much easier to use, no more stubby allen key just a simple locking pin.
Top slide adjustment for taper turning is easier and you can go 180 degrees rather than the 30 degrees you get on the ML7.
Power cross feed, not something I use a lot but it does come in handy now and then.
V bed ways means I a bit less paranoid about keeping the old flat bed ways clean.
Graduated collars on the top and cross feed are better than those on the ML7 (although still not perfect)
The quick change gear box.
I know some of these are not relevant when comparing to a Super 7 but I was never lucky enough to own one of these.
What I miss from the ML7:
The slotted top slide as mentioned by Jordan, even if the top slide was flat would be great.
Taper turning attachment, I was lucky enough to have one on my ML7, of course you can get one for the 260 if you have the spare coin.
The ML7 ran so smooth and quiet due to the plain bearing head. The 260 is still quite smooth it's just not the same.
Regarding the VFD, I have one on my 260 and I reckon they're the best thing since sliced bread and would highly recommend one.
I love my Myford, they truly are a beautiful lathe but in general since changing to the 260 I have not once seriously thought to switch back.
I still can't bring myself to sell my ML7 but I know the time is coming.
Hope this helps mate.
Cheers,
Greg D.
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24th February 2013, 03:44 PM #18Novice
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24th February 2013, 04:29 PM #19Cba
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Andrew, I do not know.... but:
I my 1988 price list, under the heading "geared head model G", it lists the prices for the two models AGM and DGM and on the next line "extra charge two speed geared head $143". That is the only option that seems to apply exclusively to the G model. Maybe that is your F?
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26th February 2013, 07:45 PM #20Novice
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It does have two pulleys on both the motor and gearbox, giving a high and low range for each of the nine gears in the head, but I never seen a geared head hercus (online) without two ranges for every gear, and none of them mention an "F" in the lettering system.
It could be what it is though, there is little information on the geared head hercus available
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29th August 2013, 09:52 AM #21Novice
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hercus 260 improvements if you get one
Hello
have Work in High Schools with Hercus 260s used to destruction point!
They're ok machines but some ideas really bad for user friendliness especially with learners.
1)
If you need to replace an old oily drive belt under the flip up lid
Use a polyurethane t link belt.
You buy one by the metre..From bearing / belt shop
Cut old wonky one off with knife .
Simply undo a link of t belt.
Put on
Relink
done in 1 minute
Put a quick change toolpost on it.
ebay search A2Z QCTP Quick Change ToolPost South Bend 10 Heavy USA
Ebay via USa has them today for about 115$ and about 15$ post.
Get one of these ones with cam type top disc post.
Can be bought off Oz supplier also same type but these seem to be USA make.
BEST mod to make ?
Replace the piddly crosslide wheel with the wheel the same size from main carriage
Needs some bore adapting but easy.
I have done many times.
Scale will vary but allow for it.
At the same time modify tiny screw holding the scale .
So you can move with a longer thumbwheel that sticks up a bit.
Will make it a much better user friendly machine 1000%
Kids hate using them in original format and I don't blame them.
Nick Tassie
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26th November 2013, 05:59 AM #22Tiptoeturtle Guest
260 Banjo Bracket versus 9" Banjo Bracket
Is the banjo bracket for the 260 models exactly the same dimensions as the banjo bracket for 9" models, or what is the internal diameter and depth of the clamping ring ? (sorry to ask, but I only have an old 9" model C)
Donald
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9th December 2013, 12:04 PM #23Tiptoeturtle Guest
To partly answer my question and advance this query, the banjo bracket on the 1946 Model C fits over a roughly 2" diameter cylinder (diameter varies as there is a tightening bolt which squeezes the ring), and is approximately 1 1/8" deep.
My reason for asking is I am trying to figure out a way of using the banjo bracket as a component in a variation of "Mr Peacock's Spindle Indexing Attachment". I cannot add anything to the original Peacock thread because the system tells me that threads over a year old are locked (and cannot be added to).
Donald
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10th December 2013, 11:19 AM #24Tiptoeturtle Guest
Something I did not know before this morning, there is a slight shoulder or step inside the Hercus 9" Model C spindle bore, about 2" along the bore from the entrance at the change gear end, and (guessing) about 1/100" high.
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10th December 2013, 06:54 PM #25Mechanical Butcher
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I have a Hercus 9 and a 260.
The banjos on both happily interchange, being virtually identical.
Jordan
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11th December 2013, 11:16 AM #26Tiptoeturtle Guest
Jordan,
Good, thanks.
I intend to take photographs to show what can be done with the banjo vis-a-vis the Peacock Indexing attachment, when I have everything finished and (hopefully) working. All things being equal, maybe it will work on both 260 and 9" models. The reason I do it this way is I am doubtful about my ability to make the bracket in the Peacock version, and I am also using bits of salvaged metal I have lying around, and I prefer to make something that will not rust (i.e. brass / non-ferrous).
Donald
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