Thread: Hercus 260 advice please

G'day Greg,
For what it's worth, I actually made the change from an ML7 to a 260 a couple of years ago.
The main advantages I find other than the obvious thins like larger swing and spindle bore are the following:

Tail stock is easier to use on the 260 and includes auto eject.
Separate carriage feed for turning means you can get finer feeds and don't need to rely only on the half nuts.
Back gear is much easier to use, no more stubby allen key just a simple locking pin.
Top slide adjustment for taper turning is easier and you can go 180 degrees rather than the 30 degrees you get on the ML7.
Power cross feed, not something I use a lot but it does come in handy now and then.
V bed ways means I a bit less paranoid about keeping the old flat bed ways clean.
Graduated collars on the top and cross feed are better than those on the ML7 (although still not perfect)
The quick change gear box.

I know some of these are not relevant when comparing to a Super 7 but I was never lucky enough to own one of these.

What I miss from the ML7:
The slotted top slide as mentioned by Jordan, even if the top slide was flat would be great.
Taper turning attachment, I was lucky enough to have one on my ML7, of course you can get one for the 260 if you have the spare coin.
The ML7 ran so smooth and quiet due to the plain bearing head. The 260 is still quite smooth it's just not the same.

Regarding the VFD, I have one on my 260 and I reckon they're the best thing since sliced bread and would highly recommend one.

I love my Myford, they truly are a beautiful lathe but in general since changing to the 260 I have not once seriously thought to switch back.
I still can't bring myself to sell my ML7 but I know the time is coming.
Hope this helps mate.
Cheers,
Greg D.

Originally Posted by cba_melbourne

N at serial number stamped between the bedways from top at the tailstock = high precision model. But there are not many N models around. Also keep in mind that worn out or not well cared for N model may overall be less accurate than a well preserved and well looked after standard model.

Other codes are L for long bed, M for metric leadscrew, H for flame hardened bedways. H is of course desirable, but remember that hardened bedways cannot be restored by scraping, only by grinding!

> ........From what I've read so far, it seems that I may have to forego some accuracy for increased capacity if I chose the 260 over a Super 7, unless I can score a high precision model.......

I think the accuracy of both lathes is absolutely comparable, if anything I would expect an N model Hercus to be more accurate than a Myford. If you are not yet an experienced lathe user, it may take some time before you aquire the skills to notice any difference.

I do not recommend that you base your decision for/against a lathe on the type of spindle bearings. It's just one of many things to consider. The Myford spindle bearings will make for "rounder" workpieces and for a slightly finer surface finish. Its better suited to make small workpieces to a degree of accuracy that in industry is usually only attempted by grinding. Makes sense, since a model engineer rarely owns a toolpost grinder and has no other choice than achieve perfect fits by turning alone. It is a fact that the lathe capable of the finest finishes has sleeve bearings and belt drive, whereas lathes with a geared head and roller bearings fall short on finish. It is also a fact that "toolrom class" lathes either have sleeve spindle bearings or very expensive high precision roller bearings. A downside of sleeve bearings is that they need to float on an oil film. This means that the center height of the spindle in standstill is slightly lower than the center height when running. Also sleeve bearings have a limited top speed, whereas roller bearings (regardless if automotive grade or high precision) can spin faster. An important consideration when upgrading to variable speed, and an advantage if you plan using carbide insert tooling that needs high surface speeds to work well. What is best for you depends both on what you do, and on your particular preference how to do what you do. Chris

Hi, Do you happen to know what "F" stands for, my 260 is a "DGMF" model, meaning "D" for seperate threading/feed shafts, G for geared head, and M for metric, but what does "F" stand for?

Cheers
Andrew

Originally Posted by andrew9

Hi, Do you happen to know what "F" stands for, my 260 is a "DGMF" model, meaning "D" for seperate threading/feed shafts, G for geared head, and M for metric, but what does "F" stand for?

Cheers
Andrew

Andrew, I do not know.... but:

I my 1988 price list, under the heading "geared head model G", it lists the prices for the two models AGM and DGM and on the next line "extra charge two speed geared head $143". That is the only option that seems to apply exclusively to the G model. Maybe that is your F?

Originally Posted by cba_melbourne

Andrew, I do not know.... but:

I my 1988 price list, under the heading "geared head model G", it lists the prices for the two models AGM and DGM and on the next line "extra charge two speed geared head $143". That is the only option that seems to apply exclusively to the G model. Maybe that is your F?

It does have two pulleys on both the motor and gearbox, giving a high and low range for each of the nine gears in the head, but I never seen a geared head hercus (online) without two ranges for every gear, and none of them mention an "F" in the lettering system.
It could be what it is though, there is little information on the geared head hercus available

Hello

have Work in High Schools with Hercus 260s used to destruction point!
They're ok machines but some ideas really bad for user friendliness especially with learners.

1)
If you need to replace an old oily drive belt under the flip up lid

Use a polyurethane t link belt.
You buy one by the metre..From bearing / belt shop

Cut old wonky one off with knife .
Simply undo a link of t belt.
Put on
Relink
done in 1 minute

Put a quick change toolpost on it.
ebay search A2Z QCTP Quick Change ToolPost South Bend 10 Heavy USA
Ebay via USa has them today for about 115$ and about 15$ post.
Get one of these ones with cam type top disc post.

Can be bought off Oz supplier also same type but these seem to be USA make.

BEST mod to make ?
Replace the piddly crosslide wheel with the wheel the same size from main carriage
Needs some bore adapting but easy.
I have done many times.
Scale will vary but allow for it.
At the same time modify tiny screw holding the scale .
So you can move with a longer thumbwheel that sticks up a bit.

Will make it a much better user friendly machine 1000%

Kids hate using them in original format and I don't blame them.
Nick Tassie

Is the banjo bracket for the 260 models exactly the same dimensions as the banjo bracket for 9" models, or what is the internal diameter and depth of the clamping ring ? (sorry to ask, but I only have an old 9" model C)

Donald

Originally Posted by Tiptoeturtle

Is the banjo bracket for the 260 models exactly the same dimensions as the banjo bracket for 9" models, or what is the internal diameter and depth of the clamping ring ? (sorry to ask, but I only have an old 9" model C)

Donald

To partly answer my question and advance this query, the banjo bracket on the 1946 Model C fits over a roughly 2" diameter cylinder (diameter varies as there is a tightening bolt which squeezes the ring), and is approximately 1 1/8" deep.

My reason for asking is I am trying to figure out a way of using the banjo bracket as a component in a variation of "Mr Peacock's Spindle Indexing Attachment". I cannot add anything to the original Peacock thread because the system tells me that threads over a year old are locked (and cannot be added to).

Donald

Something I did not know before this morning, there is a slight shoulder or step inside the Hercus 9" Model C spindle bore, about 2" along the bore from the entrance at the change gear end, and (guessing) about 1/100" high.

I have a Hercus 9 and a 260.
The banjos on both happily interchange, being virtually identical.

Jordan

Jordan,

Good, thanks.
I intend to take photographs to show what can be done with the banjo vis-a-vis the Peacock Indexing attachment, when I have everything finished and (hopefully) working. All things being equal, maybe it will work on both 260 and 9" models. The reason I do it this way is I am doubtful about my ability to make the bracket in the Peacock version, and I am also using bits of salvaged metal I have lying around, and I prefer to make something that will not rust (i.e. brass / non-ferrous).

Donald