Thread: Hercus 260ATM Install & Initial Setup Details Needed

The 260 is now powered up. Overkill perhaps with contactors and overloads, as it was in 3 phase. Plus modern circuit breakers and thermal switches. Still looking for the information on set up of a 260 if anyone can assist. If there is anyone out there who needs an original ASEA 0.55kw 3 phase motor, or contactors let me know. No cost other than postage. Someone, please, with the installation/ set up info.....

Richard in regards to belt tension do you have a belt tension Gauage,if you do set it to what the Gauge recommends for an A section belt of the type you have.
If you dont have a Gauage set it like you would your Fan Belt.
In regards to your other question is there anything that makes this lathe different to the other Hercus lathes.
If it is only the lateness of the Model and there are no other DRAMATIC differences you should be able to set it up as if it was an early 9".

Thanks, I don't have a belt tension gauge.
On the cars I own, there are five belts. Tension is only set to prevent slip, any tighter and you'll destroy delicate bearings in centrifugal regulators, hydraulic pumps, water pumps, alternators.

Taking that into consideration, I initially set the motor to shaft belt and the shaft to spindle belts at that tension. Too loose.
Now tighter, the motor belt is slightly tighter than its natural " fall ", the spindle set similarly. The total combined ( up and down ) movement at midpoint would be 35mm, with perhaps 5kg pressure.

The 260 has jacking bolts or screws, two at each end. This differs from the earlier models, not dramatic, but this is not my field of expertise.

Don't you wish I had bought something other than a lathe ?
I'm in your hands....
thanks again.

cheers
Richard

Richard,I have no experience with the 260 at all,but I would say if you can give your Lathe Spindle Belts around 10/15mm deflection to start and adjust from there.
If you find that the RPM of the lathe drops considerably when under a cut,(lets say 1.5mm DOC and .1/.05 Fed Rate you may need to adjust your tension.
In regards to the Jacking Bolts they would be used for Levelling your lathe (Left to Right,Front to Back),a Machinists Level would make this job much easier.(You could do a rough levelling with a standard spirit level.
If the ways on the bed are in good condition as another quick fix if you have a prefferably Ground shaft as wide as the bed,lay this across the Vees and see which way it rolls,and adjust your screws untill it doesnt roll.(tThis is for Left to Right.)
For Front to Back you would need to be able to place the shaft on 2 parrallel strips so that it straddles the them and adjust untill the Ground bar dosent roll.
This is a bit rough but it might get you out of trouble.

Thanks so much for that practical information.
Belt deflection currently is more than that, will adjust as required.

The leveling of the machine will be next. I'm sure I can find or borrow a ground shaft, if not a level. The provision of jacking screws is a progression from shims or packings.
Fortunately my floor is level in the intended area, by concrete standards.

The Skills Institute ( new name for TAFE ) from where I purchased the machine was singularly unhelpful, ( more's the pity ) when it came to providing information/assistance.

Gents,
Please correct me if I am wrong but aren't the jacking feet used to set the bed such that it is not twisted? It should not mater that the lathe is not level, I quote here, "After all they use lathes on ships." I can't remember where I read that but it really made the point to me that it is not so important that your lathe is level but that it is securly mounted such that there is no tortional strain on the bed.
I would perform the procedure outlined on page 5 of the downloadable copy of the Text Book of Turning using the jacking feet to make fine adjustments rather than packing.
Cheers,
Greg.

Yes, that's a good point, of course they use lathes on ships.

The secure mounting is important, ( I think ) of the cabinet to the floor in an effort to minimise vibration.

The torsional twist of the bed would be controlled by the results of the test cut and subsequent adjustment ?

I will try to have things as close to level as possible, then test cut, then adjust and secure with even torque the bolts through thejacking screws which secure the lathe to the cabinet. Than another trial cut on a bar to be certain all is well ?

I found an excellent site last night that explains things in a way even I am able to understand.

http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/ad...h/techindx.htm

I'm proceeding carefully. Thanks for the help.


Cheers
Richard

After yesterdays debacle of the weather coming at us from all directions ( no power for nine hours, computer keyboard had a heart attack and died also ), today has taken a turn. No pun intended.

A retired machinist/ scientific instrument maker friend who is very well regarded, visited me with his Deckel mill test bar.
Another friend who owns a precision engineering business lent me his Moore and Wright ELM Engineers Level and length of silver steel which I picked up this morning.

The 260 is now mostly in tune. My machinist friend suggested we pack the base of the cabinet with rubber pads, which we have done. The levels, runout on the test bar and a trial cut gave a result which is well within the ball park expected.

Another engineering friend in Melbourne had sent me a tool holder.
Made in Australia, The Diamond Tool Holder, " A Tangential Tool Holder that makes turning a breeze.. " is quoted on the packet. This was used to make the trial cuts on the silver steel. Worked a treat.

Needless to say my floor is not as level as I thought/hoped. A little packing at one end and slight adjustment of the jacking points at the tailstock were all that was required.

I have tightened the countershaft to spindle drive belt a little. All is good.

cheers
Richard

See attached sample from "Text Book of Turning" 4th edition which covers model 260.
This is available I think from Hercus.
Jordan

Thanks Jordan,
I think the process is done and dusted for now, the information a little late for me. Hopefully it might assist someone else.
Unfortunately, I don't live in town and the opportunities to align with the stars are few, particularly when others are giving of their time and equipment.

The secure mounting of the cabinet to the floor is not critical in this case. Hercus didn't mention it.

UPDATE 29/09 Test Bar Result : 0.007mm difference between collars as per the Hercus suggested method of testing.
Hercus did't suggest ( or expect ) you to have access to an Engineers Level accurate to 1 minute and a Deckel Test bar which is accurate to 2.5 microns over 300mm.

What a wonderful machine, the 260. If only this operator can achieve such accuracy, consistently.

cheers
Richard