Thread: Hercus 9in ARL 13007F

You would either have to remove the Spindle and Counter shaft to change your belt or use a linked belt.
If you use the linked belt just make sure that it will give enough clearance for speed adjustment.
Some times the Link belts sit further out of the VEE and can make it a bit awkward to change speeds.
If you replace with a Vee at least you will be able to check and clean and inspect the bearings.

PF,

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on re-acquiring a Hercus. When I started to read your story, I thought you were going to say that the lathe you sold, was the same one you purchased.

How does your newly acquired unit compare with the former one?

Removing the spindle is not difficult, but could be troublesome if it's tight through the bull gear.
It's been a while since I had mine apart, and it still is, but from memory just undo the locking collar on the LH end of the main shaft, and tap it left to right using a hardwood block to protect the end of the shaft. You'll need a fairly hefty hammer. A squirt of WD40 around the bull gear may help.

There is a fair bit of info around, for example see here. Use the search feature at the top of the page.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f189/s...removal-87106/

Restoration is also a topic well covered.

Good luck,

Ken

Thanks Ken for the tips Ill give it a nudge tomorrow.
My new lathe appears to be in better condition than the previous one and has got a long bed and a flash cabinet, bonus. The only problem is I sold my old lathe with a full complement of tools, gears and accessories, including calipers, gauges, micrometers that I had had since my apprenticeship. This lathe is barebones so I have to source quite a few tools, any tips?
I found the search feature, as I said new to forums.
Cheers
Dave

ARL 13007F, what's the F for?


Hello Dave,

I have not found any reference to the F in the Hercus literature that I have but I'm wondering if it indicated that the bed was flame hardened, an option offered on the latter 260.

Aerosol WD-40 has it's uses but I have found that it promotes rusting if used as a general lubricant on the lathe. I need to explain this. I only did this once in an attempt to remove condensation from my lathe that occured on a cold wet winter day. I had been using the lathe which I then cleaned and sprayed all the bright surfaces with a spray can of WD-40. I covered the machine with a cotton sheet. Removal of the sheet the following morning revealed a light coating of rust on every bright surface. Never, ever again.

I do use WD-40 in a hand sprayer with no ill effects. I imagine it is the propellant in the aerosol that is the villain.

This has been a subject of discussion on the Practical Machinist forum also.

Linked belts are noisy and will rub against the quill gear guard if high speed is engaged.

Bob.

Not sure what the F stands for but looking at the photograph I wonder if it is "Fast"

The lay shaft drive pulley

1. is a 2 speed pulley
2. appears smaller than the single speed pulley on my machine

For work on the apron and saddle I found this story really helpful:

http://steammachine.com/hercus/index.html

When I replaced the belt in mine I was concerned about the "thumping" approach but after trying a couple of other approaches it is the one that worked
- but I did not need the enthusiasm described in the other linked post - it goes without saying do protect the left end on the spindle - I used a 2"x2" piece of softwood which deformed significantly but no marks on the spindle. I also use some blocks of brass on the bull gear to even the load on the right hand bearing casting (keeping the contact point low in the casting) as the shaft was knocked out toward the tail stock.

Putting it all back together involved a piece of 12mm all-thread and some spacers - just watch the key in the bull gear (I warmed the bull gear and small bearing to make it all slide together easier) I have read there is some skill in minimising run-out by lining up the bearings on the spindle - apparently they have marks that can be used -- but I did not know this at the time and the run-out is OK for me - beyond my ability to measure.

The preload on the roller bearing has been talked about by others - bearings should not get hot, spindle should spin of its own accord after letting go, no slop etc -- Mr Hercus wrote a book "Textbook of Turning" Anorak Bob has linked the relevant pages here. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ho...0/#post1270245

Hope all goes well.
---

Not sure what the F stands for but looking at the photograph I wonder if it is "Fast"

Good point David,

The easiest way to determine whether the machine was factory supplied as a high speed lathe is to measure the cone and counter shaft pulley diameters.

The high speed headstock V cone pulley is 4 11/16" at the large end.

The HS countershaft V cone pulley is 5 1/8" at the large end.

My ARL had high speed motor and drive pulleys fitted but had the standard 700rpm cone pulleys. This was the subject of an earlier post https://www.woodworkforums.com/f189/h...ve-9-a-130440/

Charlie Lear's apron article certainly helped me ten years ago when I bought my first 9.

Bob.

dave as pipeclay said if you go down the link belt type replacement i used the" power twist "one from fenner got it from motion industries but had to order it in was about 16 dollars a metre +gst. i tried other types of link belts with the metal pins and it was very difficult to move the belt under the biggest pulley section because the pins fouled on the casting. the power twist belts run very smoothly
john

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Not sure what the F stands for but looking at the photograph I wonder if it is "Fast"

Good point David,

The easiest way to determine whether the machine was factory supplied as a high speed lathe is to measure the cone and counter shaft pulley diameters.

The high speed headstock V cone pulley is 4 11/16" at the large end.

The HS countershaft V cone pulley is 5 1/8" at the large end.

My ARL had high speed motor and drive pulleys fitted but had the standard 700rpm cone pulleys. This was the subject of an earlier post https://www.woodworkforums.com/f189/h...ve-9-a-130440/

Charlie Lear's apron article certainly helped me ten years ago when I bought my first 9.

Bob.

Well spoted Bob.

My Hercus 9in A model has high speed pulleys fitted to the motor and countershaft. It appears Hercus made some high speed lathes and that they were originally on the machine.Now that I have the machine up and running I find it is way too fast for my little jobs.

I would like to replace them with the original 2 speed pulleys which were standard with this lathe. Would anyone have have a spare set to sell?
Thanks


Dave

Dave,

I think the 2 speed (not high speed) setup was an accessory. Standard would have been the single speed motor and countershaft pulleys.

A couple of days ago, a two speed pulley set was sold on Ebay for about $90 plus $50 for shipping from New Zealand.

Here is a link to fellow forum member Mal's website. He has a single speed countershaft pulley at a bargain price -

hercus 10" drive pulley

Another way of winding down the speed would be to keep the high speed setup and run a 3 phase motor via a VFD.

Bob.