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Thread: Hercus Model 0

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Hello Larry,

    In the case of my mill, the grease had been pumped in through the nipple blocking the oilway in the cone pulley.There was insufficient grease to lubricate the entire length of the spindle and whatever oil there had been was long gone. The lack of lubrication in the areas where the cone rotates on the spindle in backgear, caused a seizure with resultant galling of both surfaces. Fortunately, I was able to stone away the high spots created by the galling and reassemble the spindle. The most difficult aspect of the repair was trying to remove the bull gear from the damaged spindle.

    If you have sufficient grease in the void between the spindle and the cone pulley to ensure lubrication of the cone's two bearing surfaces, you could be OK.

    The only warnings I had were a couple of quick shudders then lockup. I imagine the spindle and cone were very hot when the seizure occured. Keep an eye on the cone pulley and check the temperature when you have back gear engaged.

    Bob.

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
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    My mill suffered the same fate as Bob's, albeit before I owned it and I suspect not as badly. When I removed the spindle the damage was, however, evident. It didn't require treatment, and all told it wasn't too bad. I suspect the recessed oil nipple was the reason this area is not serviced correctly, as there was no way my grease gun's (ie now oil gun) coupler could service that nipple and was the reason I replaced it with a longer one. If it was running in grease I'm quite sure it would be fine so long as serviced regularly.

    As far as the stuck bull gear, I had a rather lengthy thread running on HSM about this but it's probably worth repeating here.

    The bull gear is an interference fit on the spindle and will need to be heated in order to remove it. Sadly the manual doesn't say that and implies it can just be "held back with a block of wood". Pig's #####!! Mine required some mighty hard hits on the spindle even with the bull gear heated. Next time however I will heat it to a higher temperature.

    Reinstalling however can be very tricky as there's no way to restrain the bull gear. The solution is to put the spindle in the freezer and the bull gear in an oven. I took my gear to 175 C so as not to damage the paint. The combination of the two meant the bull gear simply slid on up to the shoulder and shrunk when cooled so it was very easy. Hopefully that tip may help those who need to remove their spindle, as sooner or later you WILL need to remove it (to change the belt).

    Pete

  4. #93
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    Nov 2008
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    Pete ,

    The fellow that owned my ARL before me replaced the bull gear at some stage as a result him losing a couple of teeth from the original. He must have decided to forego the block of wood and resort to a steel faced hammer to drive out and then drive back in the spindle for both ends were damaged. The advantage of owning a pair of lathes is the ability to repair one with the other. I turned off the mess from the rear end and used a Dremel set up in the toolpost to clean up the nose. The sort of thing that can simply be avoided with a bit of thought.

    I can recall clearly the stress and sweat involved in trying to remove my mill spindle. I might have sworn a little bit too. I had a similar experience trying to remove the horizontal arbor from the spindle when I first acquired it. I resorted to making a puller and using a blow torch to extract it. Draw bars don't need to be tightened with a two foot crescent.

    Bob.

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