Thread: A Hercus owners register??

Derek,

Sorry I didn't word the post very well the toolpost grinder is fine, I think it just needs a new belt.

Buncha
THe inital quote I got for grinding the Hercus' ways was $550. Which is temptingly economical I thought. That included fitting the saddle and tailstock. the only catch is it is in NSW. I just have to find the money now!

Have you asked hercus for a quote just to grind the ways and saddle I know that they will rebuild the 260 lathe the older hercus tha the same way pattern and they did them about 10 years ago the other options is accumat Australia PTL LTD in bayswater i have had work done by them in the past and have been very happy with there work

Kats1719

I called Hercus on your suggestion; to regrind the bed only - $380. To do the saddle - approx $200. I forgot to ask about the tailstock, and I don't think the prices included scraping. Still have to get it interstate.

Acumat said they could do it, but with set up costs for such a small machine it might run to $10000 (yes that many zeros!!!???). Not really interested I'd say.

Brett

Why do you need to scrape it ? Actually why do you need to grind the saddle ?

If the bed is straight the machine will cut straight. Grinding it properly will make it straight as. $380 is a great price, but your real problem will be refitting the spindle afterwards. It's got to be bang on parrallel with the bed. Bang on.

I am shore that hurcus will get it right as for getting it there take the time to go to the borosa valley is that an excuse or what

Yeah but does the $380 include removing/refitting the headstock ?

I don't think so hurcus charge $ 3200 to do a refit on the 260 thy will do a refit on the older lathes as well but i don't know the price most parts are in fact interchangeable as the bed ways are identical http://www.hercus.com.au/260-metal-lathe-refurbishment/

mmm removing and refitting the headstock. I haven't moved mine but I thought they where on the V bed and they could be removed and they would go back in the correct position?. If this is not the case I will not be undoing mine then. I have started repainting bits and in the next few months I was going to do the bed and headstock. Now I am not sure if I can disturb this. Should this area be left alone?

You have to be careful you don't nick or bruise the mating surfaces but it is not a big problem just as long as you take measurements as to it exact position the head mets the bed

I'm no expert on this, but I understand the scaping is just to fine tune the finish of the ground areas, and in the case of the saddle the surfaces contact correctly (too much contact causes sticking?).

The saddle needs grinding becausse as it was wearing the ways, it was developing some steps etc. If you just installed it on a straight ground bed I suspect if may rock and/or jam.

There is very little wear on the inner ways that the spindle and tailstock index on. The quotes are all based on the bed being delived bare, the headstock is easily removed and indexes positivley on the inner V way

Brett

If you have a look at your 9" hercus you'll see the bed extends the full length of the machine. When tehy grind it they will flatten straighten and smooth the whole bed, including the bit the headstock sits on. Any reference marks etc will be lost. The current mating of the headstock and bed will be lost.

The headstock engages the bed, but it's alignment both in vertical and horizontal planes determine how straight the lathe cuts. It has to be absolutely bang on. There is no garantee it's bang on now. It's easy enough to sort when it comes back, but it's time consuming.

If you do get it ground ask how much hardening is.

I'm prepared to believe a saddle could be so badly damaged it doesn't sit securely on the bed, but I've never seen it. If a ground surface needs hand scraping to clean it up you need a new grinder. I am prepared to believe the casting could move after grinding but that requires a second grind, not scraping.

After reading the thread on the worn lathe bed
1.Is it worth having it done
2. what else has to be machined
3. Lookat the 10 lathes in SA as it wouls be cheaper to buy a better machine as yours must be flogged to death
My 1941 VB316 the bed is in very good condition
I suggest looking atthe 10 in SA and then sell the parts off your old lathe to recoup some of the Money as by your description
Your lathe is stop of the scrap pile if the bed is so bad I have see plenty of Hercus Lathes so you have to scrape the gunk off and the bed is still good and these are early 1950's which both run collets and used everyday plus has all the paperwork from when it was sold
So weigh up your options as buying a Hercus in Good condition for $1,000 is good value then just strip your worn Lathe and advertise the parts as there are people chasing
parts all the time me included

I reckon you could make your money back on bits and see how you go with the SA 10 lathes ???

all the best Derek

But there is no garantee the SA lathes are any good.

Anyway the first thing I'd be doing is sticking in a bit of pipe and making a cut and going along it with a digital caliper or mic and seeing what's what. Better to prove you've got a problem before going off to fix it. Post the results here and we'll have a chat about it.

I agree - suck it and see!

Once you know if you have a problem and what that problem is, you are a long way towards knowing how to solve it!