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  1. #106
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    St Marys Tasmania
    Age
    65
    Posts
    339

    Default Hercus solid bearing

    Hi Steven, apologies if i spelt your name wrong
    the Hercus never ran bearings until the late 1960's (please prove me wrong so I can accuratly keep all the register records up to date ) Old Fred Hercus copied South Bend lathes in USA but hardened the mainshaft so the shaft ran straight on the headstock ,a properly adjusted and oiled headstock will last years as the VB316 (1941) model was like brand new when pulled apart
    The biggest mistake was a lot of people used to thick a oil for lubrication and as all the oilers and many other places have felt wicks or pieces to absorb the oil but the thicker the oil the harder to penetrate the felt thus causing a few problems In one of the threads it was deemed that ISO68 NoN Detergent oil would be the best Me I use Auto Trans fluid as ISO68 is a thin Hydraulic oil anyway When you go to replace the mainshaft lookinside the to bearing areas and you will see a small groove this is for holding down the felt and spring by say fishing line or a thin wire and once fitted just pull the wire out and job is done to bad nobody told me that 16months ago
    The Felt is a awkward one as I bought a chunk from USA as I could not get any similiar to the remaining old solid blocks of crud
    If you do find the felt let everyone know as so far good industrial felt for the old machines is rare
    As for the scratches so long as you do not have the headstock bolts to tight and all the holes are clean and fresh felt and oil keep filling the oilers and checking the top of the Headstock to make sure it is not overheating if it is back the bolts off as they do not have to be tight just enough so the spindle cand spin freely

    After all that would you like to add your hercus to the Register as we are getting close to 60 owners nearly 70 lathes, and Mills plus it helps me work out where the 15,000 lathes went to and how many are left
    it is not Compulsory as all I need is your username we know that the serial number and the model of the lathe is the mainthing I am looking to preserve in our Register and any history that may come with the lathe
    all the best Derek
    bitza500

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  3. #107
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sydney 2074
    Age
    67
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitza500 View Post
    After all that would you like to add your hercus to the Register as we are getting close to 60 owners nearly 70 lathes, and Mills plus it helps me work out where the 15,000 lathes went to and how many are left
    Hi Derek,

    Thanks for the info about the spindle. I was tempted to put it back together today but decided to clean it properly first. The lathe has felt plugs like you say and also thin strips behind the packing shims. The previous owner had a couple of Myford ML7 oilers but never fitted them. I'd like to fit these but will consider what you've said first.

    My lathe is a VB model C serial #1408. I think it was made in 1946. Please add it to your list. Do you know if I can fit a model A carriage ? Mick Moyles has such a carriage and a few leadscrews.

    Cheers,
    -- Steven Saunderson

  4. #108
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Hi,
    I obtained a roll of felt from:
    http://www.feltshop.com.au/product.a...cID=9&c=194140
    By using a sharp knife or razor blade, I cut a section to fit alongside the spindle. It was not as firm as the original, but works OK.
    The fit of the large gear is a bit firm, and for no good reason. I lapped the bore to allow a fit that could be gently tapped in.
    If you cover the spindle thread with a layer of sticky tape, it doesn't drag the felt from the rear housing.
    I learnt the hard way, after several attempts to get the spindle back properly, each time making it easier, I got carried away and left off the belt.
    After that episode, I could probably do a reassembly in the dark.
    Best of luck,
    Peter

  5. #109
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Perth AU
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Hi Guys and Bitza500,

    I'm brand new here and have been having a bunch of fun reading your posts and absorbing your advice and experience.

    I also have a 9" Hercus lathe which I inherited from my Grandfather ~12 years ago. It sat in my workshop fully mounted and ready for action for approx. 5 years doing absolutely nothing serious before it was put into storage and transported across the continent. That was something like 6 years ago and now I have it mounted and ready for action again, but this time I have some plans for it. I have already used it to turn some bushes for the car and to refabricate a keg coupler (other hobby).

    When it originally became mine I bought some patterns for a steam engine so when I find the plans I will continue with that. My grandfather made a heap of stuff to go with the lathe (he did his trade as a machinist in State Rail NSW when they were still running steam locomotives) so if he didn't have it he made it. I've shown some of the bits he made to "professionals" and they have said he wasn't a machinist, he was a "toolmaker", which made me very proud. I still have the steam engines he built and some of those were his own design. I love just playing with them.

    Anyway I digress, it's a model A with quick change gearbox, steady and travelling rests, quick change toolpost (own design), 4" 3 jaw and 6" 4 jaw chucks, faceplates, dead and live centres, indexing wheel, milling attachment, and the list goes on.

    I still have most of the tooling and extras in storage so that is just what I know about. It's in perfect condition, I check the run out etc. this afternoon and (if I did it correctly) it is still the same as the delivery inspection states.

    The machine number (Hercus wording instead of serial number) is A7488 and it was bought new from McPhersons on 23rd March, 1961 for the princely sum of £211.19.3. I have the original invoice number 036876 . The inspection record (which I also have) is dated 29th November, 1960 and signed by W. Hartley (?) the bed still has the RGE in a circle and BS on the front bed so that may be worth consideration.

    I have the same "How to run a lathe" book as everyone else but I also have another one titled "Spare Parts Manual" so if anyone needs it scanned please let me know.

    I've probably rambled on long enough now and I'd better get back to reading the forums so I can learn (inverse of break ) things.

    Cheers,
    RossA
    Last edited by RossA; 4th April 2009 at 11:27 PM. Reason: I couldn't work out what a bearbox was!!!

  6. #110
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    St Marys Tasmania
    Age
    65
    Posts
    339

    Default Welcome to the Hercus Forum No57

    Hi RossA, sounds like you are a bit excited about either finding this site or you just love Hercus's
    You are our 57th member but with well over 60 machines and well over a thousand years of experience
    You aske if a Model A apron wil fit your lathe ??? but you say your lathe is a Model A ??
    Can you explain a bit more like your is worn ,or damaged as a Model A has a gearbox like yous has so therefore the apron is the same
    you are more than welcome to email me at home or ring me on 0415291212 as I started up the register and also now sell parts as well as rebuild headstock gears
    Your machine sounds like it is raring to go just like you

    So welcome to the Register and always ask if you are not sure as things can get broken and do you have the Textbook of turning ???

    all the best Derek
    [email protected]

  7. #111
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    St Marys Tasmania
    Age
    65
    Posts
    339

    Default Model C to Model A

    Quote Originally Posted by phelum View Post
    Hi Derek,

    Thanks for the info about the spindle. I was tempted to put it back together today but decided to clean it properly first. The lathe has felt plugs like you say and also thin strips behind the packing shims. The previous owner had a couple of Myford ML7 oilers but never fitted them. I'd like to fit these but will consider what you've said first.

    My lathe is a VB model C serial #1408. I think it was made in 1946. Please add it to your list. Do you know if I can fit a model A carriage ? Mick Moyles has such a carriage and a few leadscrews.

    Cheers,
    Hi Steven the model a-c Carraige is the same but the apron on the side of the lathe is different Yes you can fit a Model A apron on a Model C but will have to change the cross slide spindle as the Model C does not have the gears cut on the spindle for crossfeeding
    Plus you do not have to change the Leadscrew as if you fit a Model A apron then it becomes a Model B in apperance and you have 2 directions of automatic feed if you get a Model A spindle and the extension of the carraige as the Model A spindle is longer so the dial extension is also longer
    If you like you can call me on 0415291212 or email me at home [email protected] and we can talk about what you intend to do and do not get the wrong parts

    all the best Derek

  8. #112
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    184

    Default

    Has anyone ever seen a model B Hercus? It strikes me that I've never seen one, not even on ebay. They must be pretty thin on the ground. Are there any on the list Derek?

  9. #113
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Perth AU
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitza500 View Post
    Hi RossA, sounds like you are a bit excited about either finding this site or you just love Hercus's
    You are our 57th member but with well over 60 machines and well over a thousand years of experience
    You aske if a Model A apron wil fit your lathe ??? but you say your lathe is a Model A ??
    Can you explain a bit more like your is worn ,or damaged as a Model A has a gearbox like yous has so therefore the apron is the same
    you are more than welcome to email me at home or ring me on 0415291212 as I started up the register and also now sell parts as well as rebuild headstock gears
    Your machine sounds like it is raring to go just like you

    So welcome to the Register and always ask if you are not sure as things can get broken and do you have the Textbook of turning ???

    all the best Derek
    [email protected]

    Hi Derek,

    I'm sorry I don't see where I mention having problems with the apron, can you please point it out to me. I think you may be getting me mixed up with someone else.

    It is definitely a model A and has the gearbox and a host of other bells and whistles too. It still cuts perfectly and I can't fault it.

    The only thing which happened in transport was the removalists broke the handle off the half cam nut and put a gouge in the gearbox cover. Nothing big, just slightly annoying.

    The excitment is mainly because I have it set up again and I am looking forward to doing things with it. Does anyone have any ideas for an easy project to start with?

    Cheers,

  10. #114
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    3,566

    Default

    Dereck are you sure about putting an "A" carriage on a "C" and not having to change the leadscrew,I thought the Keyway cut in the Leadscrew was to drive the Cross slide feed.

  11. #115
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    52

    Default Model B Hercus

    For your info blackfrancis they do indeed exist!

    I am the proud - if not somewhat frustrated - owner of Model B - s/n 9673.
    (Brother to my as yet unidentified Hercus power hacksaw - just waiting to find the mill)

    Currently now have all the basic 'bits' and gears thanks to Bitza500.

    All things are now functional but still a few issues to tidy up and a steep learning curve to conquer.

    The 3 jaw Chuck is a bit off centre. probably like me - old and tired.

    Just built a Jig to mount my die grinder in the tool post so I will try that but am in the market for a good 3 jaw or 5" 4 Jaw to suit the hercus 1.5" x 8tpi if anyone has one lying around.

    Has anyone else attempted re-grinding the chuck jaws to get them central?

    I also run an Emerson Comander VK control unit to convert 240 to a 3 phase motor. Go / Emergency Stop / forward / reverse / speed and step. Really dont know how you could live without one....


    Cheers

    Ian

  12. #116
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Age
    60
    Posts
    51

    Default

    I too have a B model, S/No. 5540, which is currently undergoing a rebuild. But you're right Blackfrancis, they can't have sold many.

    Incidently I picked up some parts from Bitza500 this morning, including a bare bed which is in MUCH better condition than B5540s battlescarred and worn item.

  13. #117
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    184

    Default

    Nice to hear some model B's are out there

    Godzilla, how much, roughly speaking, can I expect such a single to 3 phase speed control unit set me back?

    Be careful if you do grinding in the lathe, you don't want abrasive stuff getting in and wearing your lathe, personally I refuse to do it on my lathe. If you do do it you need to cover the lathe and have something like a pan of water to catch the grinding grit. Then you'll still need to clean the lathe in a major way when finished. I'd remove the felt wipers from the saddle while grinding as well, you don't want that crap in the felts.

    I need to do some work on a 4 jaw I have, it grips with too much bias towards the front of the jaws. I'm thinking of putting a bar between centres with a piece of aluminium running a close and true fit on it and then using this to lap the jaws. I think this idea also has potential for truing up 3 jaw jaws.

    In general don't expect too much from a 3 jaw chuck. The recommended chuck sizes by Southbend (who designed the machine after all) and Hercus (early on) were a 5" 3 jaw and a 6" 4 jaw. At some point Hercus started using 4" 3 jaws and 5" 4 jaws. I'd stick to the larger sizes if buying from scratch. The 4 jaw is definitely the most useful. If you don't have one you can buy one from anywhere you like. just make sure it has a back plate mounting. Hare and Forbes sell them for instance. Then you need to get a back plate, you can buy a semi finished backplate from overseas

    http://www.cdcotools.com/

    You want the 1 1/2" by 8TPI backplate. A 6" 4 jaw chuck often takes a rather small backplate. When you get a semi finished backplate it screws straight onto your lathe spindle, you then machine it to fit the chuck and finally drill and possibly tap the holes to bolt the chuck on. Alternatively you can buy an unmachined casting locally

    http://www.hobbymechanics.com.au/macaccprice.htm

    You then have to machine everything from scratch including screw cutting the internal thread.

    If I were buying a new 3 jaw chuck I'd definitly only consider the type that you can get soft jaws for. These have a set of jaws that you can bolt soft blocks you make yourself onto. Hare and Forbes sell 3 jaws that you can buy these jaws for. The jaws are expensive but I think well worth it.

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Lathe-Chuck-Soft-Jaws

    Cheers, Steve

  14. #118
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    52

    Default Hercus B's

    Thanks for all that advice Steve , wasn't sure about the grinding but a couple of people I spoke to suggested it is the easiest way. I did as you suggested and covered up - I was able to improve it no end - but still not what I wanted.

    I'll follow your links and see what I can get.

    My three jaw is both out of "round" - ie one jaw is larger or less worn. They all have as you suggested a bias - mine have badly worn fronts so they are no longer parallel, but th grinding helped that too.

    I only paid about $400 for my control unit - but that was with some insider trading - my cousin works with that stuff. I can check on current prices. You also need the correct three phase motor but they are generally easy and cheap to get.

    I have to down load some images off my camera so I'll take a couple of photos and post up FYI

    Thanks

    Ian

  15. #119
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    melbourne
    Age
    53
    Posts
    133

    Default Grinding Lathe Jaws

    I have re ground my 6 " 3 jaw self centering chuck with die grinder in the tool post it works great three things to remember. Make a plug that fits on the back of the jaws to take the slop out of the chuck if you don't do this you will never end up with a good job. Second don't run the lath at a high speed 50/ 60 rpm or slower Or the vibration will unroll wear the grinding tip. Same for the die grinder it is hard to no the speed of the die grinder it is a bit of a fell thing third and most important is to take your time this may take several hours to do but it is worth it oh i Neely for got if your chuck is new or old disassemble it and clean it thuraly be for and after if there is a tiny bit of sword in the screw or in the jaw and it moves after you have ground the jaws it will have been for nothing


    PS if you need farther help just pm my and i can give you my phone number i hope this helps in your quest to get your lathe more accurate

  16. #120
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    St Marys Tasmania
    Age
    65
    Posts
    339

    Default Oooooooops

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Dereck are you sure about putting an "A" carriage on a "C" and not having to change the leadscrew,I thought the Keyway cut in the Leadscrew was to drive the Cross slide feed.
    Hi peter, yes you are correct as I had not given it much thought as model B lathes are very few and far between and I had a Model B owner here Today and he said that you have to have the grove to run the apron
    Something like that is just a slip of the fingers but the hippy probably has a Model B Crosslide leadscrew in his shed
    all the best Derel
    P/s where do you buy your blades from for your Electic hacksaw as I am looking at buying one but have not gone into any further

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