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Thread: Hercus User Names
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3rd January 2009, 02:34 AM #31Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Prince George BC Canada
- Posts
- 90
My luck!
Thanks for the reply Bill, it's just my luck that I have a ride home for some aussie parts but they're still too far away! sheesh!
alRemember if the ID exceeds the OD the hole will be on the outside!
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3rd January 2009 02:34 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd January 2009, 07:50 AM #32Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 339
Miles away
Hi Al,I live in Croydon Victoria so only about a few thousand Miles away How long is your sister staying in Townsville for as I ahve not bought the lathe as I have 2 people only wanting parts
And being disabled money is hard to come by as My Disability is the wires and a gizmo they fitted inside me to relieve pain and the wires run up my spine
So if you hurt yourself it is all in your brain as that is were the wire go to disguise the pain
Dave at Newmac had a brand new Pulley guard and if you sister is staying for a few days I can find out how much for the new cover and postage plus a 56Tooth gear
all the best Derek
[email protected]
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3rd January 2009, 08:06 AM #33Senior Member
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- Apr 2008
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- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
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- 339
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4th January 2009, 03:13 AM #34Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Prince George BC Canada
- Posts
- 90
Derek, too bad it's so far away. They are going to be there till 21st but will be traveling around so it's hard to contact them to organize things. So prolly this won't work out.
al
I just got an email from them in Townsville and replied with a request if she will be able to bring back a few parts so we'll see. I'm hoping I can get the gear at least as the Southbend gears are apparently a bit different tooth profile 14 1/2 deg PA vs 20 deg.
heres a couple pics of the gears,Last edited by aljunk; 4th January 2009 at 11:08 AM. Reason: added pics and more info
Remember if the ID exceeds the OD the hole will be on the outside!
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4th January 2009, 01:05 PM #35Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Prince George BC Canada
- Posts
- 90
Parts to go to Canada
Looks like we could make this happen Derek. See my private message for details.
alRemember if the ID exceeds the OD the hole will be on the outside!
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12th January 2009, 10:32 PM #36Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 339
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12th January 2009, 10:52 PM #37Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 339
And now please welcome some new Hercus Owners
28.Aljunk
29.Speedy
30.Anarok Bob
31.Anarak Bob (MILL)
32. Rod
33. Rod (MILL)
34. Surfin Nev
35.Brittleheart
36. Aljunk
37.Qwerty
Well we are getting there as 37 Members was beter than half a dozen when I started up the Register courtesy of the big fella upstairs who gave me a chance to bring all the Hercus Owners together
So pleas if you know of any other Hercus Owners please let them now about our Hercus Forum
all the best Derek
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19th January 2009, 12:09 AM #38Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 339
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20th January 2009, 09:17 AM #39Senior Member
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- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
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- 339
Hi Peter, did you make the Countershaft bearings from scratch or just machined the old ones to make it look nice as mine when made in 1954? the locating holes for the bolts,one of them has been cast wrong or machined wrong as the adjusting bolt sits askew ? and I cannot get the shaft to run freely as it had a bent shaft holes drilled in the shaft in many places to lock the pulleys ?? and yet it has the machined flats but the old owner thought drilling might be better ??? I would be curious to know as I am thinking of doing the same as I can see this being a problem as I used Holden Spigot bushes and machined and line bored but still to no great satisfaction
If you did make from new can you tell me how you did it and a rough sketch as as your idea looks great I was not sure of making from new as I was a bit stumped on how to make the locating recesses exactly 180 degrees from each other
Hope you can advise ???
all the best Derek
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20th January 2009, 09:29 AM #40Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 339
Large dials
Hi Bob, well I went to my usual Haunt Newmac (NO I have no affiliation at all) but they have plent of my money
Anyway at New Mac they had BRAND NEW large dials so I very quicky snapped them up as YOU said they are the same as the 260
As I am a regular now at Newmac Richard the Owner lets me go scrounging through his pile of bits and he has boxes of taps,drills reamers,Milling cutters cutting tools of all brands just sitting in boxes
I found the drive rail for the apron to run on so another part to bolt to my spare parts lathe I am slowly building I also got a Model C Screw and both ends as well
So Now I am chasing a headstock as Newmac wanted $250 which is quite cheap for a tapered bearing headstock but I am chasing the older style
And how goes the dismantling of the house paint Hercus as would love to see and hear how it is going
all the best and thank you Derek bitza500
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20th January 2009, 08:00 PM #41Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 115
Countershaft bearings
Hi Derek,
I made the bearings from scratch.
This what I did:
1. Replaced the shaft with a length of 3/4" linear bearing grade material.
2. Ground out the areas on the shaft to make flats for grub screw fixing.
3. Turned up two bearing housings from a scrap SS round. Bored a 20mm hole through, and machined out a recess to fit a needle bearing each end. Finally milled a flat on each side.
4. Drilled and C/S to each housing at centre to sit lower bolt.
5. Instead of drilling at the top, if a short "V" is machined, the bearing is able to self centre.
6. Drilled a small hole in each housing for oiling.
7. Machined a thick washer of bronze to seal bearings to one side of each housing.
8. Machined a thicker washer of bronze, and tapped two M6 grub screws to position each housing and seal other side of housing.
I didn't draw this up, but sketched it out on a scrap of paper as I made it, which is now lost.
However I can take measurements and post if anyone is interested.
Regards,
Peter.
PS It really makes a difference and I believe worth the trouble.
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20th January 2009, 11:51 PM #42Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 339
A ripper idea
Hi Pete, if you cpould do a rough sketch and dimensions would be great as I will definatley be doing that
Also can you remember what the Part Number is for the Needle roller bearings ??
As I think making new housings is the only way I will ever get the shaft to move freely
all the best Derek
P/S what happened to your old Housings ?????as I am chasing a set for another lathe in Progress
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21st January 2009, 12:42 AM #43Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 115
Housing details to follow
Sure can Derek.
I will take measurements of the made ones.
The shafting was from BSC made by Linear Bearings. I tried to get 5/8" for replacing the worn shafts in apron, but there isn't any in the country at the moment. For some reason I tend to give my suppliers a real pain to find what I want. I know one guy that hides under the desk when I walk in door! I reckon they they need the occasional challenge to break up their daily boordom.
You can have the old housings.
Have Newmac still got the large dials? Were they expensive?
Regards,
Peter
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21st January 2009, 10:40 PM #44Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 115
Housing details
The details as promised.
Note:
The replacement shaft runs directly on the needle bearings, this requires material with hardness of 62Rc min. Using shafting designed for linear bearings is available.
The bearings (B-128) are drawn a cup type. The bearing recess should be machined to a close tolerance, allowing just enough clearance to lightly tap bearing in. A suitable drift is required to be machined to neatly fit.
The upper yoke bolts position the housings, while the lower bolts hold the housings laterally within the "V" groove. This allows for correct alignment of bearings.
The purpose of the brass washers is to seal the bearings from dirt. The inner washers are closed and fixed against the housings when the shaft has been adjusted into position.
The "V" grooves can either be milled or just carefully ground on bench grinder.
Happy to answer any other questions
Regards,
Peter
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25th January 2009, 12:45 AM #45Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- St Marys Tasmania
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 339
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