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Thread: How and how far

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    57

    Default How and how far

    Hi Everyone
    I have been cleaning up my old hercus and would like a little advice. The lathe is in nice shape but it has 40 year old crud on it, I think a lot of it is the original shipping grease used to protect it. It’s all dry now and hard to clean off. What’s a good way of cleaning this stuff? I have stripped the thing down a lot further then I intended to and wonder if I shouldn’t paint it as I have it this far apart. I am also wondering how to get all the crud out of the apron I am hesitant to take it apart. Should I soak it thinner and blow it out? Would this work on the gearbox as well? The lathe shoes no wear on the bed ( a few bruises below the chuck) probably because none of the gibs were tightened down.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    St Marys Tasmania
    Age
    65
    Posts
    339

    Default Get out the caustic soda

    Hi TPI, I have a Willow plastic rubbish bin which has 20 litres of water and 2kg of Caustic soda I have just stripped the ARM I am stripping I just put them in the caustic and check every day or so

    then when it looks ok a large bucket of HOT water and I just use a piece of steelwool or jex to finish of the cleaning

    As one of the members gave me this way to go you must have long heavy gloves as the acid tickles a bit but once washed in Hot water and blow dry they look like new castings

    ONLY DO STEEL OR CASTINGS

    as the caustic can damage aluminium and I have castings here I stripped 3 months ago and they still have no rust on them but you have to really scrub and rinse really well then blow them dry so safety glasses is needed

    Also I go to Bunnings were I buy the long style red glove I also buy their multi pack of cheap washing gloves ,as I have found the red gloves can split between the fingers so the old washing glove gives you a second chance as boy does it sting
    Depending on the colour of the Hercus it can take up to 2 weeks to get anywhere as the older paint is happy staying on but will take it off eventually and make sure you do not spill any on your clothes or splash onto your body as I have a water bucket beside to wash the caustic off my skin
    So good luck and be carefull

    all the best Derek bitza500

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    741

    Default

    i love kero works on almost anything but wont take the paint off. i don't think the apron is very hard to get apart and would be worth it as it gets heaps of crud under there and you can look for wear on the parts. if i were you i would take it all apart every bolt and carefully ture it as i put it back together. show us a pic so we can see what state its in

    Patrick
    happy turning

    Patrick

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    52

    Default Dissassembly

    Take lots of photos as you take it apart - worth the effort when you try to put it together again, usually a little time later after you have cleaned and repaired the bits, and then find you have a part or bolt left over.
    Every workshop should have a digital camera! Documents your projects and greatly assists ailing memories.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Hello Darrell,

    I found that the only thing that would remove the dried oil and gum from my 40 year old ARL was "Goof Off ", made by Plasti Kote in Ohio. It's nasty stuff that contains zylene and will soften and remove some paint if it's not used carefully. I wore a respirator while using the stuff.

    If you decide to dismantle the apron, check out this link http://www.steammachine.com/hercus/
    It features the dismantling and reassembly of a Hercus 9" A apron by a fellow named Charlie Lear.

    Regards Bob.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Thanks for your advice guys. I think I will give kerosine a try first. Bob, thanks for the link to the site with the apron photos, it should be helpfull. I might have a try at making an ultrsonic cleaner as I still have a old southbend shaper to clean up and it seems like a good way to get parts clean without to much nasty stuff. I will get the sound guy at work to help me get the stuff I need to get it working. I will keep you posted as to the progress and post some photos of the lathe soon.
    Darrell

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    St Marys Tasmania
    Age
    65
    Posts
    339

    Default Ultrasonic cleaner

    Quote Originally Posted by 12teethperinch View Post
    Thanks for your advice guys. I think I will give kerosine a try first. Bob, thanks for the link to the site with the apron photos, it should be helpfull. I might have a try at making an ultrsonic cleaner as I still have a old southbend shaper to clean up and it seems like a good way to get parts clean without to much nasty stuff. I will get the sound guy at work to help me get the stuff I need to get it working. I will keep you posted as to the progress and post some photos of the lathe soon.
    Darrell
    Hi Darrell, what is a ultrasonic cleaner as that is a new one on me and as I am always cleaning parts the easier the better as I just cleaned a complete apron by dropping it in the caustic soda bucket and came out fine but this ultrasonic cleaner is ??????

    all the best derek bitza500

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