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15th June 2012, 10:42 AM #46Senior Member
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Hi Andrew,
A common modification on Myford lathes is to install a graduated handweel on the end of the leadscrew for fine carriage movements.
I believe that this is in fact standard on the later Myford Super 7's.
I havn't seen this done on a Hercus but can see no reason why it couldn't be.
Cheers,
Greg.
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15th June 2012 10:42 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th June 2012, 10:55 AM #47GOLD MEMBER
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Someone posted that exact mod on this forum a few weeks ago. I can't remember who though. Might be worth a search.
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15th June 2012, 11:09 AM #48.
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While it maybe limited in its range of measurement, a micrometer saddle stop might prove to be a far simpler solution to accurate saddle traverse. A fellow forum member has a Myford with a lead screw handwheel fitted. He told me he seldom uses it.
BT
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15th June 2012, 11:16 AM #49
I use my saddle stop all the time . My only complaint is that it should have a left hand thread to be more intuitive in use. I have been going to change it but then started thinking about fitting an actual micrometer head for the ultimate adjuster.Cost under $15 from CTC tools, so cheaper than a left hand tap and die.
Cheers from Micheal.
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15th June 2012, 12:40 PM #50.
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The one advantage the Hercus stop might have over a micrometer head is its robustness. Mine has been subjected to fine cast iron dust and vicious 4140 swarf, along with other nasty stuff in between and it still functions as it should. Maybe a 15 buck mic is up to it maybe it's not. Plenty of people rig up a dial indicator but I haven't because I've seen how 4140 swarf melts into the saddle paint.
BT
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15th June 2012, 12:58 PM #51GOLD MEMBER
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Bob,
those Hercus/SB saddle stops look the bee's knees, but seem to be as rare as hen's teeth.
I bought a new saddle stop for my Hercus from a bloke in the US who makes them. It got him to bore it for an 8mm dial indicator shaft. I've never tried fitting the indicator, I just use it as a stop. Occasionally I drive the saddle up against the stop a bit hard and I wonder whether the very fine threads in a micrometer head of the type locale suggested would shear under such maltreatment. But then maybe he isn't as ham-fisted as I am.
I reckon a stop is an absolute must-have accessory.
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15th June 2012, 02:44 PM #52SENIOR MEMBER
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I think I know the bloke in the US with the Dial Stop, have you seen his Cross Feed Dial? I like them both, will hopefully soon get them.
BenLast edited by bwal74; 15th June 2012 at 02:45 PM. Reason: It's a dial not a stop (I think).
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15th June 2012, 04:24 PM #53GOLD MEMBER
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Ben,
I think you may have a different bloke, unless the guy who did mine has expanded his range. Can you post a link?
I'll try and dig out the link for my guy.
Chris
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15th June 2012, 04:29 PM #54GOLD MEMBER
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While I'm looking, this should fit. Postage is OTT as usual for US sellers:
SOUTH BEND CARRIAGE STOP | eBay
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17th June 2012, 11:35 AM #55.
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I reckon that stop would drive me around the bend. Two lock screws mounted to the underside seems an awkward way of doing things. The original 2 piece Hercus stop works perfectly without the possibility of marring the bed and the spanner can be left in place. A search on this forum will reveal a number of user made stops.
I had a look on Ebay for a cross slide indicator attachment. Found this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-INCH-SOUTH..._qi=RTM1062688
Bob.
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17th June 2012, 03:40 PM #56SENIOR MEMBER
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That's the bloke I'm taking about. Its big, but I reckon it would be a good addition.
Ben
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17th June 2012, 04:32 PM #57.
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You boys should have a crack at making your own cross feed stops and indicator holders. My old mate Bruce made a neat feed stop for his 260. He posted a number of photos of the device. Worth a look.
BT
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17th June 2012, 06:31 PM #58
Here are a few photos for inspiration if anyone wants to make a saddle stop.Home made by the previous lathe owner.No graduations on it but I haven't found that to be a problem so far.
Cheers from Micheal.
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17th June 2012, 07:32 PM #59GOLD MEMBER
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Yeah, I've never needed them. If I want to turn a 10mm step in a piece I just bring the tool up to the face of the workpiece then slip a 10mm drill bit between the carriage and the stop, then lock the stop in place.
I suppose the graduations would be useful if you want to make cuts of a known depth (length?). E.g. a series of 1mm cuts. I just eyeball it. If I really need to make accurate cuts I guess I would fit the dial gauge to the stop.
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17th June 2012, 07:38 PM #60
I never use the graduated steps either, I use the 2 axis DRO and the separate DRO on the tailstock quill.
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