Thread: New member, new lathe

For the belt guard cover it would be easier to make your knob and drill and tap,hold in place with suitable set screw and washer.

Originally Posted by parrisw

My second project I think will be a nice Aluminum Tamper for my Espresso machine.

Good idea. Stainless would be better, but more difficult. I have a home made tamper with grooves cut into the circumference-this allows you to eyeball the level of the dose so you don't compress it angled (which ruins the shot).

Espresso machine restoration is one of the things that propelled me into machine tools. (Now I have coffee while restore lathes/drills etc)

I see you made it over from PM alright, welcome.

Greg

Originally Posted by gregoryq

Good idea. Stainless would be better, but more difficult. I have a home made tamper with grooves cut into the circumference-this allows you to eyeball the level of the dose so you don't compress it angled (which ruins the shot).

Espresso machine restoration is one of the things that propelled me into machine tools. (Now I have coffee while restore lathes/drills etc)

I see you made it over from PM alright, welcome.

Greg

Made it over from PM? What's that.

Sorry, wasn't it Practical Machinist where you posted about this machine? Maybe it was HSM. In any case, welcome.

Originally Posted by gregoryq

Sorry, wasn't it Practical Machinist where you posted about this machine? Maybe it was HSM. In any case, welcome.

Yes, it was HSM.

Thanks for the welcome. I've been doing allot of reading and watching video's on lathe work. I'm excited to say the least to get going on this.

By the way, I forgot to mention earlier, but I'm sure I read somewhere of someone on the lower mainland getting a Hercus from a school or board of education a few years back. Perhaps they were imported in the era of "Buy British, or at least Commonwealth" ?

The high school I attended in Ontario had South Bend machines for the students to wreck.

What kind of motor is fitted to your machine? (Local brand/voltage/phase etc)

Greg

parrisw,

Attached is a dwg showing the rear cover knobs, and the lift-up cover knob. The dimensions came off my 9" Hercus.

Ken

Originally Posted by gregoryq

By the way, I forgot to mention earlier, but I'm sure I read somewhere of someone on the lower mainland getting a Hercus from a school or board of education a few years back. Perhaps they were imported in the era of "Buy British, or at least Commonwealth" ?

The high school I attended in Ontario had South Bend machines for the students to wreck.

What kind of motor is fitted to your machine? (Local brand/voltage/phase etc)

Greg

Not sure the brand, but its 120volts single phase.

Originally Posted by neksmerj

parrisw,

Attached is a dwg showing the rear cover knobs, and the lift-up cover knob. The dimensions came off my 9" Hercus.

Ken

Thanks a bunch!!

Did you manage to work out how to engage the Back Gear,and have you also found out the different RPM of your lathe.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Did you manage to work out how to engage the Back Gear,and have you also found out the different RPM of your lathe.

No I haven't sorry, I've been at work all day today. Now I have to go out for the evening. Maybe tomorrow I'll see if I can figure it out.

Ok I had a few minutes to go and look at it, I found the pin, but can't get it to disengage? It pulls out like 3/8" but still not disengaged from the pulley's.?? What to do.

While you have the Pin in the position that it is now (still engaged in the drive pulley) open your belt cover and get a Marking pen and put a line on the flat section directly or near to where the pin inserts into the drive pulley,this will make it easier for you to locate the spot to re engage when you want higher rpm,there could be 2 holes in the drive pulley you can find them both if you like but no real need if you have one marked only.
When you try and pull the pin out I would suggest that you release the belt tension by the cam operated lever before attemting to pull the pin,there is the cance that the pin may have a bur on it and wont easly move out of the drive pulley,you could try using a flat blade screw driver to give you a bit more purchase on the pin bihind the knurled head.
If it still doesnt want to totaly disengage with slight extra force I would suggest you stop and dissaseble your spindle.
The pin is retained by a spring and there is no reason why the spring would be jamming the pin and stoping it from coming out.
The pin has 2 grooves cut in it 1 to allow the spring to fall into win putting it back into the drive gear and the 2nd to stop the pin coming all the way out and possably jaming on the casting.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

While you have the Pin in the position that it is now (still engaged in the drive pulley) open your belt cover and get a Marking pen and put a line on the flat section directly or near to where the pin inserts into the drive pulley,this will make it easier for you to locate the spot to re engage when you want higher rpm,there could be 2 holes in the drive pulley you can find them both if you like but no real need if you have one marked only.
When you try and pull the pin out I would suggest that you release the belt tension by the cam operated lever before attemting to pull the pin,there is the cance that the pin may have a bur on it and wont easly move out of the drive pulley,you could try using a flat blade screw driver to give you a bit more purchase on the pin bihind the knurled head.
If it still doesnt want to totaly disengage with slight extra force I would suggest you stop and dissaseble your spindle.
The pin is retained by a spring and there is no reason why the spring would be jamming the pin and stoping it from coming out.
The pin has 2 grooves cut in it 1 to allow the spring to fall into win putting it back into the drive gear and the 2nd to stop the pin coming all the way out and possably jaming on the casting.

Ya, I tried the screwdriver, I disengaged the belt, also tried pliers on the pin, no luck. How to disassemble the spindle? Is it very difficult?