Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 89
Thread: Lathe Help
-
25th February 2014, 09:14 PM #16Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Penrith, NSW
- Posts
- 116
Lathe Help
The sludge that came out with these things was disgusting! I'm going to get the air compressor on the holes (already cleaned out 2 blocked ones with a small drill bit) to blast them clear & clean:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393322874.725052.jpg
Given I was this far in I decided to remove the back gears to check them. The oil hole screw was missing so I feared it was bone dry and in bad condition. I removed the pin, undid both bolts on each side (tension and play adjusters) and pulled the whole mechanism out:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393322985.738046.jpg
Pics of gears and pulleys:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393323009.296089.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393323024.779337.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393323044.821833.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393323056.792257.jpg
I understand the thrust washer is a very rare part, so I was pleased to find out it was in top condition. Cleaned up perfectly so I sprayed it liberally with WD40 and bagged it to stop any rust developing:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393323124.676367.jpg
So that's where I finished this evening. On the parts list are 2 new felt oilers and springs, oilers to ensure it doesn't run dry again.
All I need is some input on if the spindle and bearing surfaces are toast. If they are, not sure what I'll do but open to suggestions (replace or maybe look to ream them and insert bronze bushes?).
-
25th February 2014 09:14 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
26th February 2014, 08:26 AM #17GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 3,566
Not being able to physically look and touch/see the wear is hard to give an overly accurate suggestion,but by the look of it and the age of the machine and the relative ease of disassembly assembly/re-assembly I would be giving the bore and bearing OD a touch up with fine emery,wet and dry or crocos paper and re-assembling.
If the marks in the spindle are quite deep you could consider getting it metal sprayed and turned/ground back to size (this would be a last resort) or just purchasing a replacement used spindle.
It is surprising how bad some of these spindles and bores can be before they become unusable.
When it comes time to re-assembly check how much vertical play you have in the spindle,any more than .001"-.002"can be a problem but should be able to be limited a little by removal of the bearing cap shims.
-
26th February 2014, 08:30 AM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Penrith, NSW
- Posts
- 116
Thanks pipeclay. I believe there is plenty of meat left on the undamaged sections to put it back in.
I'm trying to find a thread on how to fix up galling with stones or emery. Is there something around? Not sure what it means.
I'm sure you don't just run your finger around with emery as that would get the bore/spindle out of round.
-
26th February 2014, 09:24 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 3,566
Depending on how bad the damage is you could start with a round or half round file to get the heavy spots off,then use a series of different grades of abrasive paper/cloth and finish with a suitable stone.
If you have access to a curved edge scraper you could use that as well for roughing and then finish with the others.
You could attach a piece of emery etc to some dowel or other suitable item and place this in a drill etc to attempt to hone the bore/s or even use a hone by itself.
I think a file,emery and stone or part of these would do the job.
Any process you use manually will only remove a small amount of material and should not be detrimental to the spindle/bore performance.
Care would have to be taken if using mechanical means to remove burrs/scoring.
-
26th February 2014, 09:59 AM #20Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Penrith, NSW
- Posts
- 116
What is meant by a stone?
I'm assuming it's about taking off the high spots on both the spindle and bore to stop any further galling?
-
26th February 2014, 10:37 AM #21GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 3,566
An abrasive stone/oil stone.
-
26th February 2014, 11:59 AM #22Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Penrith, NSW
- Posts
- 116
-
26th February 2014, 12:04 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 3,566
That would be okay.
-
5th March 2014, 10:52 AM #24Tiptoeturtle Guest
Where Do You Get It ?
Inspired by our intrepid correspondent, I have followed in the same footsteps:
The mandrel / spindle from a 1946 Hercus from four sides, and with a wooden mallet that I used to persuade it to come out, which took virtually no persuasion at all.
This Hercus mandrel / spindle (which word is correct ?) came out gradually a fraction of a millimetre at a time with only the need for firm taps from the mallet, about 2 minutes or less. (I am comparing my experience with the experience in the video of the Southbend lathe linked from an earlier posting - in that the removal process took 5 to 10 minutes and used some torque and stress on a threaded rod etc.)
Another difference from the US Southbend video was that on a 1946 Hercus there are no two holes in the sides above the oilers into which you could put wires to depress the spring-loaded felts.
Some pictures of the interior and other miscellaneous ones:
Felt missing the wick, hence "Where Do You Get It ?"
A felt with its wick broken off, again, "Where Do You Get It ?" Or what substance are they made of ?
Donald
-
5th March 2014, 11:07 AM #25Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Penrith, NSW
- Posts
- 116
Tiptoeturtle,
I bought a full felt kit from Malcolm in Colyton (http://australianmetalworkinghobbyis...product_id=247)
-
5th March 2014, 11:21 AM #26Tiptoeturtle Guest
-
5th March 2014, 11:28 AM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Penrith, NSW
- Posts
- 116
You can buy bits and pieces but not all. I believe they are just made from a tough felt.
-
5th March 2014, 11:30 AM #28GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 3,566
Felt.
-
5th March 2014, 11:40 AM #29Tiptoeturtle Guest
Aha.
I had a feeling someone was going to say that. I must have fallen out of bed on the wrong side this morning.
Now that I know that felt is made of felt, I feel a need to consult a dictionary, perhaps a very big dictionary.
Donald (happy, I think I am going to save $33 once I get at the very big dictionary)
-
5th March 2014, 02:03 PM #30
You need some engineering felt- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engineeri...-/120901664387
There was a mob who had it cheaper, i bought a roll from them some time back. Can't seem to find the website now.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
Similar Threads
-
any one recognize this Lathe ? look like quality lathe but no name pictures inside
By thorens in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 2Last Post: 15th July 2013, 01:24 AM -
Converting a Metalworking Lathe to Wood Turning Lathe
By GrinlingGibbons in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 13Last Post: 29th March 2011, 07:17 AM -
Buying a lathe (Old massive Lathe, or New small C6 Lathe)
By Ch4iS in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 5Last Post: 25th March 2009, 12:19 PM