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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    8

    Smile Leveling my hercus model A

    Hi,
    I am a new-ish member here and currently in the process of restoring a Model A Hercus.

    Well most parts are re painted etc and I am starting the re build.

    So the first part is the floor. Shed it is going in has a good solid reinforced concrete slab. Not sure of thickness but shed gets used to restore old chev trucks around 2 to 3 tons so it is thicker than normal AS standards..lol

    So I found a flat spot and now have to bolt the bench down. Instead of making my own I bought an original Hercus bench for the 260 but I know the model A bed will fit it. But it is the larger bench so I got more tool space etc.

    Now I was going to use about 12mm (not sure of size but big enough) dyna bolts to lock bench down to the floor.

    Now while bolting it down I need to keep the bench level as possible. So the question is

    What is the best way people have leveled their lathe bench?

    When I google this and look for information I seem to get bed levelign and not bench leveling.

    Also from the image attached to this post you can (through the rags) see I just painted the area where the lathe bed pillars bolts to. Should I strip this paint for best results when it comes to fixing the bed down?

    I feel I should as paint will "flake" over time and bolts will lose torque etc shims might move. But just curious to see what others did.

    I want every step to be level/true so when I am finished my lathe should make a pretty good product. My use for this lathe is making miniature gas turbines and go kart engine parts so I am looking for accuracy as good as I can get it as I will be making shafts etc that will be spinning fast.

    Cheers
    Cameron

    P.S. Attached is an image of bench. Painted on the outside. Inside I jsut blacked it out yet to put doors on and shelves in.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    2,500

    Default trucks

    Cameron , What type of Chevy trucks do you have ? MIKE

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Hi Mike,
    Umm they are my dads trucks I am jsut using his shed..lol

    One is a 29 Chev bought in family since new.

    Other one atm isnt a truck it is a 1930 chev 4 door tourer its all original found ona farm UNDER hay so actually preserved it so its in for clean up atm.

    I prefer something a bit newer..lol My project is a 1969 Toyota corolla..lol

    Cameron

    Also on topic with the leveling had a brain wave I could use a bubble level on teh X and Y axis and mill some wedges from steel as wood would compress and use them like a door stop if one corner needs lifting just slide them under till level and then bolt down.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,642

    Default

    Cameron,
    do a Google search for a document titled "The Installation and Leveling of the Lathe". It's South Bend Bulletin Number H-3. I can't upload it because I'm away and I have a very bad internet connection at the moment. If you can't find it I'll upload it when I get home.

    It's very old, but I doubt the basics have changed since it was written. Well, except for the bit about anchoring the bolts into the concrete with molten sulphur!

    Chris

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Cameron,

    I recently restored my ATM260 and installed it in my workshop. I also have a concrete floor so I got the support stand as level as I could using an accurate level and then installed the lathe to the stand. Then using the method given in the Hercus book on basic lathe work, I set up a 30 mm test bar in a three jaw chuck - overhanging about 6" - machined it down in the centre regions to give "collars" at either end about 1/2" wide, and then took light cuts over each collar using the same cutting tool setting. Any differences in collar diameter I took out using the hex head threaded bushes at each lathe bed hold down point. Using this method, I managed to achieve about 0.0002" runout aver the 6" length.

    I haven't done a centre-centre setup yet and as my tailstock serial number is different to the lathe serial number, I expect I may have to deal with that as well.

    Hope this helps.

    David

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Hi David,
    Thanks for the advice.

    As for bench mounting I will get a good level this week and level the bench. I have decided Ill drill some dyna bolts into the slab and make some metal "door stop shaped wedges) and use these to level the bench as good as possible.

    Next step I was thinking about today leveling the lathe bed itself. The bench I have I belive is for a 260 originally so its feet bolts are slightly wider. To save drilling and tapping the bench I though of this idea today that will hopefully solve my alignment issues also.

    Ill buy some thick steel plate say 30mm thick. Ill get it milled flat on both sides and drill the plate so suit the bench hole position and then drill and tap more holes to suit the lathe.

    Then what Ill do is mount the lathes feet and just take a thou or 2 off the feet height while bolted to the plate.

    This way feet will be square to each other on plate torqued down then milled again so teh top of the feet will be square adn level. Then its jsut a matter of bolting the bed to the feet that are flat.

    This should give me a pretty accurate setup straight away and later if I need to move the lathe I can pull bed down etc as long as I leave the feet fixed to the plate it should stay square and true.

    What is everyones take on this idea?

    Cameron

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Corndale
    Posts
    266

    Default

    Hi Cameron,
    I think the heavy plates are overkill for the job.
    If your lathe stand is from a 260 it is more than up to the task.I followed the setup instructions from the book and have had great results. My lathe was missing the nylon washers so these were turned up from some Acetal . I put the steel washers between the stand and tray but didn't worry about making them as per the book.I had rung Hercus and they didn't use special washers boards the end of making these lathes.
    Does the Model A have the adjusters in the feet of the lathe?
    Levelling the stand first is a good idea and a builders level is good enough for that.
    Cheers from Micheal.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    15

    Default

    I came across this article last week that might be relevant:
    Projects In Metal, LLC » Blog Archive » Norman Newguy: Are You On The Level?

    Cheers
    Matt

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Dural NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,120

    Default Lathe Set Up

    Quote Originally Posted by localele View Post
    Hi Cameron,
    I think the heavy plates are overkill for the job.
    If your lathe stand is from a 260 it is more than up to the task.I followed the setup instructions from the book and have had great results. My lathe was missing the nylon washers so these were turned up from some Acetal . I put the steel washers between the stand and tray but didn't worry about making them as per the book.I had rung Hercus and they didn't use special washers boards the end of making these lathes.
    Does the Model A have the adjusters in the feet of the lathe?
    Levelling the stand first is a good idea and a builders level is good enough for that.
    Cheers from Micheal.
    Micheal
    Glad to hear that all is going well.
    Did you decide on Imperial or Metric Micrometers. I see a lot of them on E Bay both used & New.
    I have purchased a couple of used ones with pleasing results.
    regards
    Bruce

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