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Thread: Loose Cone Pulley?
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23rd January 2014, 05:57 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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There is the axial (side to side) play, the pulley moving along the spindle from left to right;
There is the rotational play, the pulley having play on the bull gear pin,
And there is the radial play, how much clearance the pulley bore (which i'm surprised isn't bushed with bronze-it is on the Mars) has on the spindle.
Hi Ewan,
There is axial play of about .35mm and rotational play from the bull gear pin. I can't feel or see any radial play. What worries me is the amount of oil coming out, the colour, when it started coming out (only recently), why it's coming out - single phase motor?, and comparsions to other Hercus 260 lathes which have none of the play or leaks like mine.
Ben
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23rd January 2014 05:57 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd January 2014, 10:05 AM #17Cba
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Maybe there is no radial play, because it is just about to seize up? I would definitely take the spindle out and have a look. Just for peace of mind. It is not that hard a job. If you are lucky all is fine and just needed a good lean.
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26th January 2014, 04:02 PM #18Senior Member
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I just measured mine, ive got axial play of 0.42mm, rotational play of 0.32mm (which I consider to be a lot, most of the other 260's and 9in ive played with have much less, I may drill and bush the hole one day). The best measure I could get for movement of the pulley off axis to the spindle (its not necessarily radial play, there is no constraint on rotation around an axis perpendicular to the spindle) is 0.01mm, though I oiled it this morning and ran it for a while to do some work, it was all a little warm still. I dont go through massive amounts of oil, but it does come out about as clear as it went in. Functionally, ive got no problems.
Id be pulling the spindle out, its not a huge job and all these questions about wear can be properly established on a bench. Id be doing it if there was dirty oil, I wouldnt run it again until I had satisfied myself that it was all clean and recieving lubrication. Rust is not a good lubricant.
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26th January 2014, 07:02 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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I have to go see Mal sooner or later. I'll compare his lathes to mine. The colour of the rust/oil coming out is what has me most worried. Though I've used it plenty without problems and it doesn't heat up at all.
I would like to take the spindle out and have a look, but getting it back together is what worries me. Once things settle down at home and at work I may consider it.
Ben.
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26th January 2014, 07:11 PM #20Senior Member
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Its one allen key and a mallet. Undo the bearing lock collar and spin it off. Start gently persuading the spindle towards the tailstock and everything will start sliding off. Just catch the bits, keep them in order and jobs a goodun. The bullwheel is a little stiffer than the others, its on a key as well, just keep persuading it until it sees your point of view.
Putting it back together is the reverse, no real magic. I set the bearing preload by snugging it up until there is no play. I run it and check that nothing gets hot. If some play develops, tighten some more, if it gets hot, back it off a touch.
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27th January 2014, 05:21 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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HI,
Well I've kinda started taking my spindle out. Still a bit hesitant.
From the photo's you should be able to see what I've done so far:
Taken the both bearing caps and the reverse bracket off. And also taken off the take-up nut. About ready to start persuading the spindle out.
So I really just want to make sure I'm going to do it right before I start. Gently tap the spindle out with a mallet or wood from left to right (looking at the headstock) until the whole thing comes out?
Out of curiosity anyone know how much and where to get new bearing from?
Cheers Ben.
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27th January 2014, 05:51 PM #22Cba
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Ben,
please do not force it. Gentle tapping only. If it sems stuck, it probably is and you should make a spindle puller contraption. I used an M12 allthread bar, plus some chunks from the scrap box. The Hercus 260 maintenance manual has a drawing how their spindle puller looks like. But you just need something that braces against the right side of the headstock and gently pulls the spindle towards it by turning a nut onto the allthread. The same can be used in reverse to re-assemble without needing a hammer. Hammers and spindles do not belong together.
As for the bearing, it is imperial sizes taper roller bearings from Timken USA. Left is a 11162, right is a 18690. Most 260 lathes had ABEC1 precision bearings. But some buyers took out the "double precision" option which included the ABEC7 bearings. A set of the latter would cost today around $1k. The ABEC1 should not cost more than some $150 for a set, but you may have to order from the US. So my recommendation: be careful not to damage the bearings during disassembly and reassembly, and reuse what you have. Chris
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28th January 2014, 07:38 AM #23Senior Member
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Wooden or nylon mallet, firm single handed strikes will be fine. Youve undone all the bits that would stop it coming apart, the only two parts that are a snug fit on the spindle are the left bearing and the bullwheel. If theyre not moving, CBA is right, youll need to make a puller.
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29th January 2014, 05:41 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi,
Had a bit of time last night so knocked out the spindle. I've yet to clean any of the parts to inspect for damage but on a quick visual nothing seems awry. The spindle came out surprisingly easy, some firm taps from a mallet onto a wooden piece and out she came. If you can see anything I should now about let me know.
Ben.
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4th February 2014, 06:40 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi,
Haven't done much with the headstock pieces but did give them a bit of clean today with oil and a scrounging pad.
The spindle does have some marking and pitting most likely (I think) from me running it without enough oil at one time or another.
The cone pulley still has the brown sludge stains on it. I thinking of taking it to work to put in a large ultrasonic parts cleaner but may not get the time to do it for a couple of weeks due to work commitments (I really want to get back together).
The bull gear seems fine. I took some measurements: Pin OD 9.25mm; Cone pulley hole 1 9.61mm; hole 2 9.59mm both elongated somewhat.
I'll continue cleaning the headstock parts and as much of the headstock as I can.
Ben.
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5th February 2014, 05:17 PM #26Cba
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This is the product you want to lubricate the cone pulley with. It will last a long time. It will not flow out and make a mess, even if your spindle to cone play is on the loose side after you polish off the scoring marks.
Super Lube Synthetic Grease With Syncolon Multi Purpose Lubricant 3 OZ 21030 | eBay
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6th February 2014, 09:17 AM #27Mechanical Butcher
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6th February 2014, 11:05 AM #28Senior Member
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A quick search comes up with this - Super Lube Grease 3oz Tube - Super-Lube - Shop By Brand
Probably others out there.
Nev.
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6th February 2014, 01:57 PM #29Mechanical Butcher
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Thanks.
Funny how the postage is the same price, whether from USA or Sydney.
The total is actually cheaper to buy from overseas.
Or, I could pick up in Sydney and save $15.
I think I'll just keep my eyes peeled for it, maybe when I'm at an engineers' suppliers.
Jordan
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9th February 2014, 08:09 AM #30SENIOR MEMBER
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i got some of that here in adelaide i think if i remember right it was from mektronics do a google on " superlube au " i think they have outlets in most states
john
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